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This suspension fit the easiest. Allready thinking of cutting off the upper spring mounts to drop it a little, I think I can get an inch out of it, which would put it where it sat with the last leafs.
I took pics. I've been taking pics of things all summer. But my camera needs special software that only exists on the computer in my house where you live so it does no good now.
Maybe my "shocks as an afterthought" way of building suspensions isn't that great. I spent a few hours today figuring out where I could mount them. Gonna have to build new upper and lower mounts and do some trimming on a few things like coil buckets and steering arms. I found a pair of procomp shocks that are stiffer than my bds ones. Also checked the rear ranchos off a new ford and they were softer than the procomp but firmer than the bds. They were quite a bit shorter, probably only 12" travel and the tube was shorter. Leaf springs do alot of damping on their own from the friction between the leafs. Coil springs don't do any so I think shocks should be firmer with a coil suspension. Also found out the jeep still has about 46" of travel with the new suspension, but the front doesn't flex much until the rear stops. Looks like the rear will be getting a sway bar. The wheel base is about 106" now. I have almost 1.5" of clearance between the tire and suspension arm now at full lock so I get to adjust my steering stops. The tires used to hit the leaf springs when I swapped the 60 in. The old 44 was about 2" wider.
Now that I have the coil suspension I can use a normal slip drive shaft, so I'm looking for a 1310 driveshaft with a 1.5" - 2" tube if anyone has one to get rid of. The old temporary square shaft may finally get replaced.
It's mostly done now. I'll probably still paint the links and such. Here's some picture.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../jeepflex3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../jeepflex1.jpg
This weekend I installed "new" 39.5 x 14.5 TSLs. It looks much like it did before but with tread. Also installed the first the first part I could have easily built given a few hours but bought instead.
OK I think I want to get this thing back into decent shape. Nothing's really wrong with it, but much is not really right.
The first problem to be addressed is the erratic idle. The timing at idle is not close to stable. I want to remove the GM TBI ignition control and go back to stock control. Does anybody have a wiring diagram or information for GM TBI being used with stock ignition?
I might replace the homemade tbi adapter first before ripping this apart. This adapter it to adapt a tbi unit it a chevy 2 barrel manifold. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Anybody know if the chevy 2 barrel is the same pattern as the amc/ford 2 barrel?
It appears Flem was right a few years ago. Jeep's running good now with the above adapter.
I finally started on repairs from the New Mexico/Arizona trip. Rewired the alternator control, it had caught a little fire in AZ from a bad connection. Now charging a solid 14.3 volts, seems a little high.
Still to do before the jeep's first trip to Clayton, new steering and rear axle. My axle breaking problems should soon be over. Who was it that had d60 setup bearings?
still need a steering box, i have an extra but you have to remove it from the blue cj
I think Creighton may have them right now (setup bearings).Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Ask Coop what happened to the steering box he let me borrow. You can't kill a steering box, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I intend to have hydraulic steering going soon.
did you ever get that steering box from me, or is it still sitting in my storage closet?
No, probably still there.
If you need the bearing send me your address and i will ship them to you
I ordered a set of Yukon 4340 front axle shafts and u-joints a while back. I tried putting them together today, and one of the u-joints won't fit. It is apparent that the joints had been returned before, and soon will be again. Even the one that fits doesn't seem of decent quality.
So now I need some different joints. What are the thoughts of running stock joints with the 4340 shafts? Are CTMs or Longfields the only other options?
most shaft manufacturers make better joints now
CTMs have gone up a lot in price in the last few years... dont know if it is the same across the board
What you want for your CTMs?
$4500. You can probably get him to throw in the housing for another $500 :D
i am going to keep them right now... think I am going to put axles in jeep next summerQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
do it
Finally got around to disassembling the rear axle. I had a little breakage in Arizona and we pulled out mysterious pieces with a magnet, then the magnet got stuck.
Looks like the shaft took out the bearing journal on the carrier, and also the inner race of the bearing. Glad I wasn't planning to reuse that carrier. Had to pull it because I need the gears to put on the detroit for the front.
holy wow. nice breakage
wait, what!?Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I'm eliminating unlockable hubs. Got to have some way to let the front unlock for highway cruising.
it's like I don't even know you anymore :)
that was not what I expected to see - interesting break! I guess the bearing came apart in pieces then...
Got a pair of spicer joints and continued assembly of the axle today. I have no luck, or maybe I buy crap. The drive flanges don't fit over the axle shafts.
what brand flanges? I know that hte better ones that we put on Ed's truck had to be coerced into place because they were a tight fit vs the cheap ones that had play in them..
http://extremeoffroadparts.com/sdrive.shtml
I have dodge axle, external hubs. This is the only company I know of that normally makes them. Someone else made a few batches. All reviews I have read say good. Hopefully they make it right.
Making a d60 rear axle take 35 spline shafts is not a very easy task. One must enlargen the spindles. I have found that a 1.5" hole saw works well. However, many issues have come up.
You will need:
Good 1/2" drill. I first broke Scott's and then picked up a double reduction unit from Harbor Freight.
1 1/2" hole saw.
Hole saw attachment device. I first broke Scott's and the picked up one with the little pins
An extension
You will also need something to keep the hole saw centered in the existing hole. It must fit closely inside the existing spindle bore, and also inside the hole saw. I found that an old craftsman 1" socket works excellently. I borrowed Scott's Craftsman 1" deep socket thinking it would line the tool up better because of more length and found that it's OD is smaller. My 1/2" sockets are from I believe 1978, at some point Craftsman must have cheapened.
I have found that motor oil makes a good cutting lube, better than PB Blaster or ATF.
You can only drill about 3/16" deep at a time. Then you must pull the bit out and clean out the shavings. I think this is because the socket takes up all the space where the shavings should go.
I've made it about 5" into the first spindle. Letting the metal cool again. Pictures on next break.
Could a shop have done this on a lathe for you? After the expense of tools and investment of time, is this cheaper compared to machining costs?
you are talking to kopeki here
Also, what about d-70 spindles, didn't they come with 35 spline stubs from the factory? Can you bolt d-70 spindles to a d-60 knuckle or do you have to change out all the outers?
This is a rear axle. 35 spline stubs fit right in to front spindles.
Got one side finished, axle fit in. Probably about 3 hours not counting finding tools.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...c/100_0117.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...c/100_0115.jpg
I got tired of pushing on the drill.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...c/100_0118.jpg
Everything worked well at Clayton. Busted u-joint in the front driveshaft again, will be switched to 1350 soon. When I put the rear axle in this time I went with stock 96 bronco springs. These sit 3.5" higher than the TJ springs I had previously. By changing the mounts I was able to lose 2" of the extra height. The ride is better now, no more bottoming. Still need to lose another inch of height.
I finally moved the jeep to the new place. It's a tight fit, in that the roll bar rubs the latch mechanism on the garage door. Really thought I'd have some clearance, even got 2 tires a little low. Now if I can just motivate myself to stop fishing I might get some work done.
Added what you meant to say in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
^5Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I believe the shiloh run conflicts with the flounder run.
Been doing a little work lately. Changed the transfer case out for one with bigger outputs and cut down the skid plate so I can change joints easier. Finally made a round driveshaft for the front.
Then I cut the back off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../Photo0099.jpg
that's just not right!