re: the tires, did you get blems?
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re: the tires, did you get blems?
nopeQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
so I pulled out the other Birfield Last night (Driver side) and it had about 5 splines that were stripped on the end of the Birfield. Guess I'll have to order another one...
How do only 5 splines get stripped? Is your hub focked? Did you have the bolt in the end of the stub?
its one of those things that only Scott can do
I think so too... I have no idea, all the other's are rounded a little but there are a few that are just almost completly missing.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I didn't have the bolt at the end - what is that for anyways?
Never heard of anyone running it like that. I've always figured the hole was so you could put a bolt in there to help get them out when they blow and expand in the knuckle :confused2Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
I haven't had bolts in mine for a long time, but since they have that big fender washer on them it seems like they may help to keep the stub fully engaged on the slug. Does it look like your splines had full engagement Scott?
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
[cough] [cough] dana 60 [cough]. It's time to join the dark side Scott. ;)
they had full engagement
and yes, it is time for a D60 but I decided to pro-long the life of the FJ-80 axle till I get a CJ with D60's built
60s are boring. Mogs or Volvos.
or hybrid 9's or New Holland. Don't worry, It won't be a normal 60...
:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
now wouldn't this be badass for a turning radius
http://www.newholland.com/FILES/tbl_...SA_00401_w.jpg
and yes that is a 4wd tractor
damn
new parts:
new Poly Performance 4340 shafts
1 Poly Performance FJ-80 Birf
1 Longfield FJ-80 birf.
Comparison pics
Sexy Toyota Bling. Sweet!
why are the birfs from two different suppliers? (Maybe I missed it somewhere)
I wasn't going to buy a second one but then I noticed that I had some stripped splines and needed to.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
I just did it to compare the two venders.
so far:
+ for Bobby's being pre-greased
+ for Dave's (Poly Performance) for getting here much faster
Dave says that his shafts have not been broken yet... :gigem:
new shafts and Birfields in.
all important nuts and bolts checked and tightened.
new tranny mount in.
Still need to do:
adjust rear axle location
trim rear fenders some more
cut and move some tubing on the pass. side rocker panel to keep the tire from hitting it.
fix a few rock lights
re-install spare tire mount and spare
Get Dodge to start...
That could be the most important thingQuote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
UPDATE:
I decided to pull apart the font end for a few items that need to be checked out: The "locker" was slipping, and I have one bolt hole for a caliper stripped.
Background:
- started with ram assist
- broke ram off in Clayon years ago
- tried without ram at Mason - it sucked
- went full hydro, didn't change the ram
- broke a front inner shaft in Moab
- changed the ram so it could turn right (full hydro)
- swapped to all 4340 stuff in the front end
- ripped off the ram in Clayton
- Slims fixed me up pretty good in Clayon, I thought I was good for a while
- went to CO - ripped it off again (stripped bolt hole)
- welded up the ram a new way in CO
- went to Clayton, notice slipping welded front end. Hold's but slips every now and them
Anyways - i am fixing it - the welded front end and the stripped bolt hole.
I'll never get time for the CJ... Working in KS tonight...
These pics are from last night - I couldn't get the 3rd member out without taking off a u-bolt. Couldn't get the u-bolt without cutting it off. Couldn't get the 3rd out without taking off one side of the tie rod. Typical crap...
BTW - the Bobby long joint still feels good - the Poly joint I am a little worried about - we shall see...
Scott you are starting way too soon. I still have a week or two before I start messing with the scout! Why work on a truck until the week before!?
Why didn't you weld the side/spider gears to each other instead of to the case? Seems like the tensile/compressive properties of welding the gears would hold better than the shear properties of welding to the case. I've seen it done either way, but I've always wondered why someone picks one or the other.
I welded my gears to each other and left the case alone. Thought it would make kind of a mini-spool (I know that's a dirty word). It's lasted pretty well, but of course, I don't wheel as hard, or near as much, as you do...
all 4 gears were welded to the case and to each other. They all broke. I'll just re-weld it - it'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
It's lasted for like 4+ years that way...
So it actually broke the welds between the gears and sucked them through? Man you do wheel hard! :gigem:
Your jack stands look scary.
BDR is talking about here. i put small pieces of 3/8" bar stock in between the gear teeth and welded mine like this.
was this the rear diff?
John,
your right - it looks like I didn't weld much in there. I have welded there before, not sure why I didn't do it then - It was over 4 years ago...
I do believe that it should be welded everwhere.
Yes - that's the rear carrier - V6 model. The front is a V6 but it's a high pinion so it's a different design (FJ-80)
I was running low on jack stands...
not with welds like scott's :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
Cody welded those - I place my trust in him...Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
are you still running the 4 banger? when are you gonna drop in a titan v-8 to get it back to the nissan roots? :D
someday after I get the CJ done I will revamp the Patrol...
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
obviously...
linda knows what to buy you for christmas
its funny becase there's none left inside...
http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/305...definalam9.gif
a new rear disc setup - like I did on Lynda's
nice, late-model GM calipers with FJ-40 rotors?
GM rotors too