keep in mid that you always need at least 1" of spline engaged.
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keep in mid that you always need at least 1" of spline engaged.
keep in mind that 44044s are droopy springs. They won't have a whole lot of uptravel.
What I would do (and did) is I'd measure from the pinion yoke to the t-case yoke while its sitting at ride height. Put a hi-lift under the front spring hanger, jack up the front end until the tires are pretty light on the ground. remeasure...
for example, if its 29" at ride height, and 34.5" when its jacked up, safe bet would be that i'd put 10" of travel in it. Its gonna use 5.5" of down slip, and 3"-4" of upslip.
5.5+3.5=9" of travel...make it 10" so you have a 1" cushion.
Make a shaft that is 36" long when fully extended and 26" when collapsed. That means it has 10" of slip, it will accomodate your fully drooped springs, and will accomodate your uptravel too.
I'm pretty positive that your truck needs 10"...if u bring it to the meeting we can bust out the measuring tape and have a look see.
44044s don't have much uptravel..... :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
http://www.theaggieweb.com/photos/00000678.jpg
http://www.theaggieweb.com/photos/00000523.jpg
Yea nuts that's downtravel.
thats alot of downtravel right thur.
damn thing flexes pretty damn good... now only if he would finish it and wheel it
yeah, i see a lot of droop, but no I don't see wheels stuffing up into the wheel wells very far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
those are his 31"s, remember he'll be running 36"s. check out how flat the pass side spring is compared to the flexed to sh!t driver's side one.
Back on topic.....
Saw the S-10 at the meeting today, I must say i"m eating crow, VERY IMPRESSIVE! Keep up the good work.
PS...I hear that A&M Consol is giving driver's ed, you should check it out. :flipoff2: :D
JUST KIDDING, once again good work, Keep it up! :gigem:
Ill check into that! Also am trying to get job drivin the busses for a&m. Watch out!!!!
ahhh ****....thats just what we need...another TAMOR member driving busses... :flipoff2: ....that makes how many current and former drivers
Lissa - current
Me - Former driver currently in the shop.
Burris - Former
Oliver - former
Jennifer Pusak - Former
Finerik Juilleson(sp?) - former (you have to be a really old member to remember this guy being in the club
thats six...anyone think of anymore
Hensel, coon ass.
Kate?
took a little flex pics today, back has zero flex!!!! must do something about that!! i was pleased with front flex though, thought it flexed quit nicely, nothin popped off and it cycles smooth with no weird sounds...
nice pics
sweet...now it needs bigger shoes!
those 44044s stuff nicely
are your rear shocks limiting droop? You should get them up away from the rocks anyway
If those are new springs they will suck for a while. Go baja over some speed bumps and over the railroad tracks to break them in quicker, and fill the bed up with something heavy.
yeah im thinking about putting a spare tire back under the back end to give it some weight, the front springs are great, but the backs just dont move much, and no the shocks dont limit travel at all they are 5038 ranchos longer than the 5012's and they got about 6 inch up travel and 6 inch down travel if i remember right.
also yall think 36's would be too big or should i just stick with 35's?
36s should be fine. Or at least 36x12.5, maybe not something real fat. Get some spare shafts. And weld the u-joint caps in.
Yeah that way replacing them will be a fun time.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
What type of tire do you want to run?
Truck looks nice better start building some protection for the body.
3 minutes with a grinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepsterJayson
Or you could throw them out like everybody that rips ears off.
pretty sure that he already did.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
i want to run 36x12.50 swamper radials cuz of the price and i like the tire, or if i win lotto 35 MTR's?
Either should be OK. Its possible to break with either too. Mine broke just as often with 35x14.5 SSRs as it does with 36x12.5 cut hummer tires. The SSRs were great on the highway, I ran them unbalanced and they didn't shake, and were very quiet. Much quieter than the worn 35" BFG MTs I had on my dodge at the time.
just to throw in my good word for MT/Rs....my 37" MT/Rs were quieter on the road than my 33" KMs. unless you have something else to drive i'd front a little more for the tires that are gonna last longer.
as in the KMs... your mt/rs didnt last too long now did they
im thinkin about those maxxis creepy crawlers ive seen a pics of them and they look pretty interesting and they have them in a 36" size. No one else has them so i might try those on. I dont really care about lasting if they last as long as my TSL's ill be pleased. Dont want them to last too long then ill just get tired of the same ol tire, its fun to try different tires out about every year.
may be fun but it aint cheap
Get 35" mtrs then...I should be ready for them by then ;)
hey guys got a question ive found a EB CV driveshaft on ebay and also a chevy CV driveshaft on ebay they are the same price and not expensive, i will have to retube both for longer slip and to reach. which would you think would be the better buy, are the CVs different for each you think, i just dont know which would be better for the ends....
i'd recommend getting a chevy cv that will bolt to your case. Then, get an end for the axle yoke. take it to a shop and have em retube it and put long splines in there....or if u wanna i'll make you a square tube shaft.
i just saw, or realized what that post was about. i did my SAS and put the 37" MT/Rs on when the odometer read ~123,700....i just took the MT/Rs off less than a month ago, and it just rolled over to 148,000. most of the time i estimated the speedo/odo. to be off by 11-13% which means those tires lasted roughly 27,000 miles. the rears still have ~40% tread left...the fronts went bad b.c. of bad balljoints. they actually did last really well for the kind and size of tire they were.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
not trying to start any arguements or call anyone stupid....just doing some math and sharing w/ the class what i learned from my MT/Rs. i didnt realize 'til i started this post just how much i'd gotten out of them.
My dad runs over 60K on every set of BFG MTs he gets. And he doesn't run them below 30%. And that's on a 10000 lb truck, that pulls most of the time. The 35" old style bfgmts I took off dodge had about 70K on them, and were not slick.
only other time i've heard of that kinda mileage from a mud tire was on the old school Bridgestone muds, which had the same tread as the pre-KM BFGs. 50,000+ miles on a CC, LB F350 used in a lawn care business.
BDR got like 50-60k out of his 35" old school BFG Muds
I loved those tires :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
so i should go with the chevy blazer front shaft?
I went to BVD today and inquired about lengthening my rear shaft cuz it needs to be a bit longer before i put flexier springs on there i dont want it pulling apart going down highway. Anyways they said it would be 150 retube and balance. is this a good price? i thought was reasonable but havent tried any other place.
i also asked about lengthening a front shaft when i get it, and he said the most slip he could put in it would be 3 inches, told him i would prolly need more than that and he proceeded to tell me that the front end wont move much with the leaf springs i have and that i wouldnt even use all of three inches. guy was a dick thought he knew everything, i asked if he could build a shaft like the following and he said that i was crazy so...
150s high