hey robert... when you gonna be back in cs... i have some breaklines that need to be done... i believe you volunteered :)
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hey robert... when you gonna be back in cs... i have some breaklines that need to be done... i believe you volunteered :)
Anyone got any input on floor shifters. i have looked around and havent really heard the pros and cons of each of them... what would be some good recomendations?
I have been looking mostly at the B&M Megashifter... i think it might be a winner... anyone think this one isnt any good... and what is the difference between the B&M Megashifter and B&M Truck Megashifter... do they come with different linkage?
there is like a 9$ difference between the regular one and the truck one but all the details read the same
the truck one should be a longer handle...
The truck one doesnt have a longer handle it has a little base that elevates it off the floor a few inches. I'm using a regular B&M megashifter and I have to lean over a little to reach it but fabbing a bracket to raise it wouldnt be hard. I dont know when I'm coming back, probably the 13th-14th. I like the B&M ratchet style. Garret insisted on buying a gate style that cost twice as much so maybe he can explain why he likes it.
I thought about getting a ratcheting shifter, but I like the idea of being able to get into neutral with the slap of the shifter, not having to bump it a couple of times to do so.
I seriously considered both the Art Carr gate shifter and the Lokar shifter for the Scout. The Art Carr one seemed to be very nice, and I've never heard/read anything bad about them. They were on sale last time I checked for $199.
ive got the b&m truck shifter i like it. same shifter but with a raised base and taller cover. i like the ratcheting. makes for good tire chirps.
thanks for the info... i think i am gonna go with the truck megashifter...i am gonna order it in the next week sometime just to make sure i dont need anything else from summit... hey dave you still need to piggyback something off my order?
I went to home depot today and picked up a soldering iron and some heat shrink thinking i might start on wiring... well i didnt... that damn kit looks like it is gonna take plenty of planning and a full day atleast to make it as neat as i want it. Then i modified the front headlights and moched them up. Just need to weld them in and clip out space in the grill for them. I think it is actually gonna look pretty sweet narrowed. I then began to ponder the location of the dual batteries and other stuff and have decided to mount the batteries, isolator, power inverter and pretty much all underhood wiring in the toolbox. Anything that you would hard mount to a fenderwell is gonna be mounted via carpet wrapped board as you would see at any custom amp. stereo place... and it is gonna be mounted in the toolbox. I figured that with all that stuff properly installed in there that it would be safer from the weather and whatnot. Only downfall is less space for tools and spare parts. But hell the bronco is still fullsize there is other places to mount spare parts and whatnot.
I wanna run a line lock on the front axle... which one should i get?... what one do you run?... Is it worth the money?
What good a line lock on front axle do you?
Hey Tate, not sure if you need any help with stuff next week. But if I get my truck back I'll be in town if you need a hand. Got nothing else to do.
well i am gonna have cutting breaks in the back... figured i would lock out the front for some fun burns and digs
I found a baddood alternator 200amps that would bolt up but am not willing to shell out 300$ so i am gonna go with a sexy black powder coated 140amp one... i also found a high performance powersteering pump, the b&m truck megashifter, and some bushings that will actually work for my transmission crossmember... but i am not ordering it tonight... i am gonna wait for davido to let me know if he still needs to piggyback something from summit
So I take it the waterbucket alternator didnt work? I have a plain ol' Jegs linelock, it cost $40 and works great. Since it wasnt a big investment I can say it was worth it just for doing burnouts in the street in front of my house. I did use it for an e-brake at Clayton, since my mechanical one isnt hooked up yet. I know they bleed off over time but mine seemed to hold fine for an hour or so at a time.
From what I can tell, Summit discontinued the lights that I wanted. But I think they have them at the local parts stores now.
mmk
i ordered the stuff i was talking about yesterday... other things still needed to buy are 10.25 disc break stuff, doubler stuff, crossover knuckle... who knows... i think i need another job
i just ordered a ford np203 gearbox, doubler, and tripple stick shifter from ORD and earlier i ordered wagner rotors, calipers, and pads for the 10.25
the guy that knew the hell what was going on at ord called me today and i talked him into drilling the bolt holes for the 205 so that it is clocked 2"... flat with the 203. said they should have it shipped out by the end of next week.
well i went to pick up the disc stuff for the 10.25 today and luckly i opened up both boxes with the rotors up... one of them was mislabled and was a 5 lug one. so tomorrow i get to go back and pick up the other 8 lug one they ordered... fun stuff.
Then i went out to the shop and mostly just cleaned today. It was getting pretty sloppy in there and i couldnt really work. Only work i got done was finally putting on the spark plug wires. i had to look in the book because i forgot the firing order. Turns out i feel dumb because it was like the easiest one there is. so for now i am just sitting around waiting on parts mostly, because i dont feel like installing all of the ones i have sitting around already
well today was tear down old hard work. I pulled off the rear tires planning on taking the drum breaks off but i put my wheel spacers on with an impact and dont have proper power to run the compressor at the shop so i moved on. Then i tore apart the front 60. Got it all apart and knuckle off to send off for crossover. the stubshaft on the driver-side has nasty splines which made taking the hub off very interesting. I should have not used that stubshaft last time i had it apart. i have two spares so i think i am gonna put one of them in and keep this one for spare. Then i took off the front driveshaft and pulled the np205. I should have all my goodies for the doubler in a little over a week so that is my reason for that. oh and when pulling the 205 i think i broke my finger. all in all pretty productive couple of hours. oh and the first pic is of the spark plug wires on from yesterday... i still need to add the little clippy things to keep them organized
see the shaft isnt quite perfect
or maby you cant tell from the pic but i know it is
Damn it looks like you broke it right on the last joint...Ouch! You sure have been spending some dough on your rig. I bet the 203 and disks cost a pretty penny. Like I said before if you need any help next week sometime I'll be in town once I get my truck back. :gigem:
the 203 was money but the damn doubler itsself was big money... i got the sexy triple stick shifter too
the whole rear disc conversion with all wagner lifetime parts is costing me under 300$ so it isnt as bad as you would think
Sweet! I'm about to order my twin stick for my d20 case...be big pimpin. Found it on ebay.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
has anyone done price searching on dana60 detroits... i did some last month and found it as cheap as 465 i think but cant remember where from... guess i gotta restart the search
i guess ill just have to tape this finger up... it is gonna piss me off if it slows me down much at work
If you can find a detroit for $465, jump on it like a cheap hooker. I searched my ass off when buying the one for my 60, and the best deal I found was $500. If you can wait till I get back to CS, I can look through my receipts and tell you where I got it from. I'm liking what I'm seeing progress wise. Are you going to be able to re-use the t-case crossmember you made with the doubler? When you gonna fire that sum***** up?
i wont know for sure until the 203 and doubler get here and i have it to moch up... but i think it will work since the 205 is gonna be clocked and if it doesnt the stock one might. if neither work i can modify or build a new one. i want to start it as soon as i can. hopefully this month.
well today wasnt much progress made. i pulled the diff-cover off and started to pull the 60 apart to put in my not even ordered yet detroit... well i cant get the sum***** out... two prybars and little tate are not enough... maby need someone bigger than me to help me get it out. so after loosing that battle i moved on to removing the powersteering pump. it came off fine but to remove the bracket that i need for the new one i have to get the pully off.. i stripped out two allen wrenches trying to break it loose but lost that battle too. so after loosing twice in one day to the broncos power to not get rid of parts on itsself i decided to go to wallyworld... i needed some oil for the f150 and such. while there i picked up fluids for the bronco as well and some pretty sweet and cheap rock lights. Also picked up two marine battery boxes. i figured for 6.50$ each i could sure save a lot of space in my tool box. so now they will be mounted kinda beside the fuel tank maby not sure exactly where but the optima fits in them damn good and i really need the toolbox space for other stuff.
oh and what is it that you use to make old gas better?... octane booster or gas treatment
New gas.
i will add new gas to it but there is no sence in draining it
I just ordered all the parts i need to make my dana 60 Superior to yours :)
I would drain it into a container, dump it on the truck, then light a match. That, or just put it in the F-150 and burn it in that since it likely won't give a **** how old the gas is.