good question
good question
sorry, wasn't trying to be an ass about it. Was actually smiling as I typed that. Should have stuck a couple of these on the end: :flipoff2: :)
oh a smiley! Much better ;)
cmon mang I grew up in Florida, asking me if I have ever been in a ski boat would be like me asking you if you'd ever sat in a traffic jam :flipoff2:
here fred, borrow mine ":flipoff3:"
Since the floor is hosed and we are replacing it before dropping the motor in we have been going through the whole thing. Exhaust tips, ski pole, bilge, teak deck, beer can holders, etc. It won't be new, but I'll know everything that is going on with it when it's done. Burris brought some stones out tonight to help with the project. Hopefully have the floor done this week sometime.
Since I don't do woodwork, I've been taking care of little odds and ends while Dad and Jimmy do that voodoo woodwork that is the floor. The exhaust tips/flappers were corroded, so after wrestling them free from their silicone encrusted grip on the hull, they have been cleaned, hit with etching primer and repainted gloss black. Aside from that, I've been messing with the wiring and fuel system. Apparently, Pleasurecraft marine decided that they could use the same basic boat harness from as early as 1985 up through at least 2001. So basically, the harness that the 2001 Pro-Boss motor uses to tie into the gauges and ignition switch match up with the same connector as the 1985 carb motor used. So basically, I need to supply the starter with 12v and hook up the grounds and it's pretty much plug and pray at that point aside from the fuel system. All that needs to be done there is a return line which hopefully I can talk St.John into welding a bung into the aluminum fuel tank for us. I'm looking forward to see what 310hp is going to do with such a little boat. Should be a lot of fun.
Atleast the water will be soft. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
How small is this boat?
19' Data plate says 6 peeps or 900 pounds. I don't know where you'd put more than 5. I'm going to rebuild the spotter seat and rear bench but need an aftermarket smallish driver seat. The one that was in there was a bass pro special. I've been looking but them *****es is expensive, $200 bones or more for a decent one.
karl has a great design for a cooler holddown he used on the klogger, if you think youre upto that level of fabrication.:D
ive got a camaro seat that would work in it.
I forgot about the spare camaro seat I had!! You're a genius John!
This pic represents a whole lot more work than it looks. My dad made new stringers out of treated 2X6's to support it. Every piece matched the curvature of the floor, major pain in the ass. I picked up some "Marine" Plywood off of Craigslist for $40 a sheet. The plywood is actually some engineered stuff for some kind of concrete forms. It has these thin layers of something really smooth on the outside. It says exterior grade on it, and I haven't found a void in it in all the cutting we did, it's good stuff. I tested a piece for three days in the pool, just like when I tossed it in. I just sanded the poop out of the upper side with 36 grit so that the fiberglass would stick. I'm in the process of 'glassing in the top, everything underneath got coated in resin as I went. Hopefully this floor will last a really long time.
I also picked up a pretty kickass driver's seat and am going to order a 26 gallon tank to build into the rear seat so I can have some hidden ballast. That should only be good for 250 lbs or so, but with that and a couple of fatsacks I'm hoping for a decent wake. I was reading online people putting 1000 lbs and up in these boats in ballast. That sounds crazy to me, but whatever works.
Fred found a killer deal on a JL10 for it, so we're well on our way to making it bump. I think I'll use the ol' tax return to buy a super sick tower to keep the boards out of the floor.
I'm thinking about putting blue neons under the side rails so that I'll have some light at night and I think it'll look cool on a boat anyway. St.John said it was canadian. Thoughts? St. John also welded another bung into the aluminum tank for me since the fool injected motor needs another fool return. Thanks man!
The motor has been ready to go for awhile, Fred is getting anxious.
neons would be peemp
LEDs are the pale face's neon.
since your doing all this work, have you thought about just stripping the rest of the boat and getting it re gelcoated?
gelcoat doesn't make it wakeboard any better, everything he's done adds to the wakeboardability of the boat, so I don't see it gettin regelcoated. only thing it needs now are a tower and perfect pass, I would think both of those come way before a paint job.
If the rest of it gets buffed like half the starboard side is it would look good as is.
Yea, buffing should shine it up.
Gonna put perfect pass on it? Is there some aftermarket system?
Can't just bend up a simple tower and get it painted or powder coated? Just needs 2 hoops and a couple spreaders.
Spend the tower money on some hydraulic trim tabs. That's all the Tige used for wake size control. Also helped it level out when cruising. The Malibu's always running around with its nose in the air.
I would think that just getting wet wouldnt necessarily ruin plywood, its getting wet and drying that makes the different "plys" pull apart. Regardless, looks good.
good stuff jimmy. wish i had seen it when i was up there. any details on the seat? and what is perfect pass?
How much do the towers cost?Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I bet our benders would bend aluminum. Maybe the radius would get flattened out a bit?
I've thought about it for our boat, but seeing as we had a $100 wakeboard that broke after the first couple of tries, it's not really a priority.
flakeboard is where it's at!Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
http://www.perfectpass.com/pp_wakeboardpro.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Seth
why not build it out of some thinwall chromoly? st john can tig it up for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I was just thinking aluminum for the sake of rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
St. John can still tig it up:flipoff2:
does Al tube bend easily... as in not crimp or rupture? i dunno. id do it out of steel and powdercoat just to keep from having to experiment with bending Al.
Quiet! We need a guinea pig.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
10 second search...
good point! jimmy, you havent a hair on your nuts if you dont build your own tower out of aluminum.
Looks badass Jimmy, if you're worried about the neon looking canadian just fly the Stars and Bars! Problem solved!
http://www.hardwoods-inc.com/Products/concrete.cfm
is this what you used? or something similar...everybody has there own name..I think there is a bunch that comes out of Brazil. This stuff is from China.
there are two different types..paper faced and the resin faced...resin one being better.
$40 a sheet is good. I think most places it is around $80.
Plenty of towers are built of carbon steel and painted. Towers are very expensive for all they are. I wonder what 304SS tube costs...
Most of the towers for boats that look good have long radius bends. It's hard to make a tower look good with a normal bender.
if you did it yourself though, you could peemp it out though.
http://bierbower.net/diytower/home.htm some good links on making one yourself.
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1118980059
this one isn't too bad, no long radius bends on it.
That first one sure is slick though.
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...921/375150.jpg
You need to get copperhead fab (or anybody w/ a plasma/waterjet table) to cut some ATM and Tamor salute gussets out for ya. :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
I like it, but I want it to have 4 connection points with the boat and be able to fold down so I can store it in my garage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
That one looks pretty good until they actually mount it to the boat. Then it looks like ****.