first rule of building a rig, is dont listen to kopecki. second rule of building a rig, is dont listen to kopecki.
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first rule of building a rig, is dont listen to kopecki. second rule of building a rig, is dont listen to kopecki.
fawking UPS. I went down to my girlfriends apartment for a few minutes, and when i came back, there was a huge package sitting by my door. Inside where my shocks and dual case adapter. What pisses me off is none of my lights were on, so its obvious no one was home, and the guy just left it sitting there, underneath the apartment walkway lights in plain view of highway 6. How long do you think it would have stayed there if I hadn't come home right away? Plus the box has been seriously mauled like everything else that UPS handles
I was thinking 28" was close to 27.5" so you could reuse the stock shackle hanger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
they don't care about their jobs or the packages they deliver. My buddy in htown just bought a nikon digital slr and they left the $1400 camera, that was marked "Sensitive Electronics", that was supposed to be signature confirmed, sitting on his front porch when it was pouring down rain 2 weeks ago. Thankfully it was all taped up and enclosed in plastic, cause the box was a mess when he got home.
do you already have the h2's cause i have a set for sale in my garage
yeah, I picked up a set from sharpe
This 4runner is gonna kill me yet. I've cut up several toys of different vintages, several much older and rustier than this one, and have never had as many problems getting bolts loose. I've broken three 3/8 ratchets, and several sockets. At least its all craftsmen, so I can warranty it. I think I'm gonna go to sears tommorow and see if they have a 12mm and 14mm socket for a 1/2 drive ratchet.
2 inch body lift and front hanger installed
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0021.sized.jpg
Parked 2 days and a rat has allready tore into my wiring and vacuum lines
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0016.sized.jpg
The gas tank on these 4runners hang really low, and therefore takes a real beating. On my old truck, I moved the tank to between the rear frame rails, where its a perfect fit and is tucked up and protected really well. The only problem was I had to lengthen my stock high pressure fuel line. At the time I could not find the barbed metric fittings needed to build my own, so I had Bryan Hoes do it for me. The cost was insane. So once again, I'm considering moving the tank, and spent alot of time looking for the right fittings with no luck. Well I dropped the tank a few days ago, and was shocked to see the barbed fittings I was looking for allready there.
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0015.sized.jpg
I have the stock rear suspension torn out, and I'm just waiting on the F150 springs to get here to finish it up. I've also assembled the reduction case for my dual cases, an most of the new crossmember. On saturday I start torching off the front suspension
lets hope you get it together before its time to get back to school. Its always fun working on your DD
I put the fuel pump on in june. I saw that when I put the pump in and thought it was kinda weird. If I remember there was a lot of extra hose too.
yeah yeah, I'm working on itQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
one thing I still have to work out is how to regear this thing. I'm gonna need some help or find someone to do it for me without charging a arm and a leg
I think I'm about a week away from buying this
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/...setuptool.html
though it doesn't look that hard to make if you already have a dial inidicator
crawl box
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0032.sized.jpg
New seats with lots of adjustment
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0043.sized.jpg
HP D70 :flipoff2:
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0029.sized.jpg
H2s
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0024.sized.jpg
Iroks 39.5x13.5x17
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0023.sized.jpg
abracadabra, IFS gone
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0025.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0049.sized.jpg
Gonna box in the motor mounts when I do the front shock mounts
One thing I did differently this time was the bodylift. I never liked them, but in order to run the larger tires and do some of the mods I wanted, one was needed. I went with a 2 inch one from 4crawler. The pucks are made of UHMW, and are substantially larger in OD than the performance accesories ones I pulled off the rolled 4runner I cut up for parts a few years back. I also went with new polyurethane body mounts and heavier hardware in order to beef everything up a little more
All this allows me to tuck the drivetrain further up for better clearence.
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0041.sized.jpg
I thought I had a better picture to show this, but with no cutting of the floor or tunnel, it looks like I can have a almost flat belly. The t-case mount in the pic will be removed and a FROR type t-case mount will be mounted on the rear of the t-case. The drain plug on the bottom of the case will be replaced with a low profile one.
Later this week I have one day to work on this thing again, and hope to hang the front axle then and begin assembling it. I still need to get my steering arm from krebs, and hope my F150 springs make thier way up here before much longer. I see little chance of getting this thing done before school starts, but hope to have it close. I figure a day to reassemble the front axle, a day to install and rebuild the rear axle and suspension, and a day to build the hydro assist and t-case crossmember. Everything I've built and done so far has been done in about 4 days worth of actual work. There is alot of little things I've done that have eaten alot of time, but I'm still going alot closer than I had hoped
BTW, Rigid (home depot) hole saws suck. They get dull just looking at metal. Lennox (lowes) hole saws meanwhile kick ass. Also, Mack bolt and steel has some good prices on drill bits, but thier taps are expensive.
A quick tip for anyone trying to use toyota springs for some reason or another. While they are really nice with the military wrap and offset center pin, they have a bushing with a steel outer sleeve which can be a huge pain to remove. The best method is a big press, but most people use a torch burn out the rubber bushing, then cut the sleeve with a sawzall, which is a huge mess and a real pain in the ass. This time I tried something different. I spread the eye of the spring a little by beating a old screwdriver in between the end of the spring. I then used a socket (the OD of a 30mm craftsmen socket perfectly matched the OD of the metal sleeve) and beat the bushing out. Took all of 5 minutes to do both sides. Oh yeah, watch out for that screwdriver as it likes to turn into a high speed projectile
I have a question concerning driveshafts. For the front I'm gonna do a square one which is simple enough. As for the rear, if I grind out the welds and remove the tube, the remaining ends are nearly a perfect fit for 2.5 sch40. This would give me a little better than .20 wall thickness, and be cheap to build. Now the problem is balancing it. Some people have had luck by balancing by sticking it in the truck and slowly turning it and making adjustments until its true. I may do this, but I'm open to other ideas on how to do it. Or do you think that driveshaft place on 2818 would balance it if I brought the materials to them?
Also, if I'm using a CV in the rear, I need to point the pinion at the t-case output, correct?
Oh yeah, one last thing. Any suggestions on removing a diff cover? The one on the D70 refuses to budge, and there really isn't a place to get something under the lip of the cover to pry it up
I remember somebody telling me not long ago that with a cv, the pinion needs to be with in 11 degrees (IIRC) of the tail shaft. I may be completely wrong on this matter though.
flem, does it measure from the split on the caps? I thought it was better to have kinda like dummy bearings where the tool rode on b/c that was where the measurement was taken. and that the split on the caps was not a precise split, i.e centerline of the bearings.
split on the caps. I guess multiple measurements could be done to verify the zero is set to centerline of the bearing, or figure out how much to add/subtract.
where are some good write ups on setting gears?
look in factory service manuals.
Then check randy's R&P setup for specs.
The rover book has a kick ass set of instructions. search for the RAVE disc and you can probably find it on some norwegian pirated software website.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
billavista's is pretty good with lots of pics.
who here has setup gears before? I'm tempted at trying it myself, but for what these things cost me, I'm worried about screwing it up. I would like to at least get some help doing the rear axle, since it will see more abuse and is needed the most for driving around town. This would at least give me an idea on what to do, and then maybe I could try the D60 myself. I had someone who said he would help me, but haven't heard anything from him in a while, so I don't know if thats off or not. I'm willing to pay in cash or beer for help, or even for the use of some of the specialized tools needed.
If nothing else, is there anyone local who can set these up for a decent price? I've heard of the AAMCO place, and one other, but have heard bad things about both of them.
J&P standard transmission out on 21 reset the gears on my crewcab when I lost a carrier bearing for a decent price.
Search J&P....varying opinions
i went to get some parts from them. very reasonable and nice guys. i changed my mind about them. after all, the only bad reviews i ever read came from austin roberts...nuff said, eh?
this is true....Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Like Jerry said there are varying opinions. I personally haven't had any problems with J&P. But I have known a few people that did. One friend of mine had them install an ox-locker in his jeep.....he made it to Hwy 6 before the pinion bearings froze because they didn't refill the gear oil. They took care of it though, replaced everything with no hassle. I'd say if you take it to them just get someone else to check it before you use it.
had good luck with them in getting some small pars and info when setting the gears in my 60.
richmond gears sells a instructional video
built the front spring packs today, hung the front D60, and ****ed up my steering arm (don't ask). Decided to call it quits for the day and get ****ed up. Mission accomplished
sweet...
who you gonna call?
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/
no, I can fix the problem. Trying to avoid paying out any more money