cool beans, you will love the difference they end up making
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cool beans, you will love the difference they end up making
i just picked up a set of used rims and a new set of stauns for 550 total, ill get pictures when they get here
bad ass!!!
now its time to egg brian into buying the super charger from me so he can destroy his transmission faster
Hmmmm, tell me more...
i would try and get this on for the trip, but i dont think i will have enough time to get that done, the new rims and stauns on, build a cage and other misc stuff
i got my twin stick done and i am almost sure i got the trans leak fixed, now i just need to do the stauns for this weekend
So no more crawling under the truck to switch out of 4lo, that is awesome!@@@!!!!!
Try and take some good pictures of the staun install, that would be interesting to see.
ill get some pictures of the twin sticks tomorrow when i am working on the stauns, and just for you ed ill take some pictures of the staun install
i didnt get any pictures of the staun install(ill get some when i install the rear ones), here are some pictures of the twin stick, they work great, now i just need a cutting brake so that i can do a decent front dig
i also got the front shocks installed, and here are a few pictures of my broken drive shaft from this last weekend, i called jesse and he said that he would fix it no charge, but i did make a square one just in case i dont get it back in time
and here are some pictures from last weekend
Awesome carnage, now you just need to sleeve what ever size that d-shaft is w/ some 3/8-1/4" wall. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
ive got some 2 inch sch 80 in the back of the truck (well if I ever get it back)
i sent it off to jess at high angle and he is going to hook me up with something, ill give him a call thursday to see what he thinks and also see about getting something thicker put on it
been working on the blazer, i have done some work on my cage, its not done but i do feel much safer now, i got it tied to the frame and also the a pillars and windshield cross bars installed, now all i need is some more triangulation.
i also built version 3 of my trans crossmember, if this one fails it will be a sight to see, the main cross tube is 2.5 square .25 wall and the rest is 3/16 to mount to the tcase
edit: now all i need is some paint and to install it to be ready to load up for trees this weekend
sweet, I hope that I won't have to weld that one back together. do you have any pictures of versions 1 and 2
turns out this is version 4, i forgot about the first one that i had to ditch cause the driveshaft hit it, that can be seen on page 6 post 81, version 2 i cant find a picture of and version 3 can be seen on page 13 post 182
ive only got 11 pages total
ive got 15 pages so i dont know where the other 4 went for youQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...9&postcount=81
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=182
Man yall are lazy (you've been hanging around me too long. :D )
Nice. That one looks like it should do the trick!
i sure hope it does, but only time and how much skinny pedal i use will tellQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
What thickness are the bushing sleeves?
1.75 dom .120 wall
I'd bump that up to .250 or weld a strap around them
agreed on the .250
also, for your bolt sleeve in the middle, make sure you have the kind without the seam. The ones with the seam suck
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0765.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0794.sized.jpg
i told him to weld a strap he thinks he will be ok, only time will tell
or just use the right size bolt for the sleeve. If it needs a 9/16" bolt, get it, don't try to use a 1/2" or it will end up looking like the hippies.
You can't have any play between the bolt and the bolt sleeve, the shank of the bolt should go almost all the way through the sleeve. Many times, I buy an extra long bolt for the longer shank - and just cut off the extra threads.
use bolts like this:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1096
ill have to check the length of the shank on the bolts, and look in to the grease able ones, thanks for the info
scott that was not caused by the threads on the bolt. For the bottom bushing i used a sleeve without a seam and it is fine. You can see where the threads are cutting into the sleeve there but that is not what caused the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Brian you shouldn't need greasable for this application, it shouldn't be moving around like a shackle, it just needs to be able to take a good rock hit :D
so after busting 3 u-joints at clayton and with them looking like the picture below, i decided it was time to redo my rear suspension and run a cv rear drive shaft, for the output flange on the 205 i am using a 208 front output flange i just need to change the stock seal out for a national 473457 to make it seal correctly, i have already made the driveshaft, it was my spare for my front, now i just need to finish welding the perches back on and reinstall all the parts i had to take off
looks to me like you're just spitting caps out. does your yoke still have both of the tits on it? maybe you should try welding some washers or plate on the outside of your yoke and see if it fixes it.
how is it that you think pinion angle and the driveshaft is doing that? that really doesnt look like an axle wrap caused break. do you not have an anti-wrap bar?
he hasnt got around to an anti wrap bar yet. i think that is next after this little project
i dont have an anti wrap bar yet, that is next, the problem was that i was running to much angle, i was in the mid to high 20's on a ujoint to ujoint shaft which is way to much, so the cv shaft should help this problem
anybody know where to get ubolts for a dana 70hd? the axle has a 4 inch tube diameter, i checked a few sites and they only went to 3.5 inch diameter or so
gooseneck trailer and Napa are good places to get Ubolts. Maybe even some of the big truck shops out by bryan iron and metal would be worth checking as well