another.
Printable View
another.
and heres my idea for rear shock mounts, cj rear shocks are attached to the spring plates and when i go spring over the plates will be to high to be of any use, i these will be welded to the axle tube. They are made from 1 1/2" by 1/4" box and i made them effecttivly act as skids, they will be welded level with the axle tube on the facing forward on the jeep, this way if they do hit anything the ramps will be used.
another
another one
nice work - attention to detail is always good.
noice!!!
shock mounts look cool but they will hold water and dirt and the shock bushings will be working overtime.
mount one in front of the axle tube and one in the rear and it will damp wheel hop.
speed hole 'em...
i made "antiwrap" spring perches for the rear of the cj this morning, they are made from 2.5x2.5x1/4" box. They are 8" long to hopefully fight axle wrap in the rear, these along with 7 leaf cj rear military wrap springs and i hopefuly won't have to run an antiwrap bar.
heres a comparison between some aftermarket ones that i got from flem that measure 4.5" long ,i'll run them on the front
if you want a little more wheel base you might want to drill the centerpin hole 1 inch offset and that will give you an inch of wb. shouldn't hit the tank and since you have to redo the driveshaft anyway probably now is a good time
ya gonna have do do the spring plate also
well i shipped the passanger side knuckle out a week ago and got a message from the guy today that he couldn't machine the knuckle because it was bowed at the spindle mounting surface, and that is where his jig bolts to the knuckle. So it wouldn't sit flat on the jig and so wouldn't be machined flat. I had it shipped back to see if its salvagable. Here is an attached image, what is the general consensus. i don't know if the gap is 1/16" or 1/2" because there is no scale.
Dont suppose it could be from the balljoint/hydraulic press incident do ya???
my immediate thought was that i had fubbarded them all up, but i was pretty careful that when i pressed them out that i watched closely for bending. And if you think about it if the press did bend them it would have bent the ball joint portions of the knuckle in so the spindle portion would have had to bow out not in as in the pic.
I agree, that is ryan's carpet, and probably his tent stake too eric. :) At least the guy was decent enough to be honest with you. Hope he didn't gouge you on shipping. How much harder would it be to just source new (to you) knuckles?
I am really confused here. Did you tell him ahead of time that you were sending him a knuckle that was trashed? How in the world did you bend it that way, and you can't possibly expect your axle to stay together for any period of time if the mating surfaces don't mate. This is your DD, right? Tell the machinist to throw that thing in the trash and get yourself a new knuckle.
edit: I am slow tonight. I see that you had him ship it back to you and you took the picture. That sucks, but I am still not sure how you could be uncertain of the difference between 1/16" and 1/2" on a picture you took yourself. Whatever, moral of the story is the same, throw that thing in the trash and get a new one.
Looks like you need a new one. Dodge ones are easy to find, but they've got some extra featuers on the knuckle for the caliper bracket. I don't know if you can ignore them and use your brakes or if they would be in the way.
Did you send this to a business or a residential address? Looks like the photographer is wearing socks.
yah that pic seems sketchy as sh*t, he took it not me, thats why i couldn't tell how far it was bent. Ok should i have him mail it back and spend $20 of my money doing it, or should i tell him to trash it and try to find another one?
Seems shady. I would have it shipped back to you. That's just bc I would want to see for myself what the deal was. Also, I would not want anyone who uses a plastic tent stake as a straight edge making judgement calls for me. He very well could be telling the truth, but still raises a flag to me.
ah, i see now. forgot what it was your were doing.
tell him to bolt it to his jig and torque it down really tight. put a torch to it till its glowing and keep tightening the bolts till its flush. then quench it in oil.
what are you crazy!? The carpet in his shop will catch fire!
finished the drivers side cage to frame tie-in. I had all the parts cut out and ready to go last week but was waiting on a bushing. Looks just like the other side.
i got the springs yesterday and took them apart to repaint them and remove the rust, while i'm at it i'm going to to replace the center pins and spring clamps/retainers, or whatever you want to call them.
rear spring
wow somebody actually tied a cage into the frame without hard mounting it to the body
these are what i ended up getting, new center pins, and the clamp style spring retainers the bolt style ones were just too expensive, 4 center pins and 8 clamps ran me $23.
you haven't been paying attention to discussion concerning center pins, have you?
yah i know about cooks and david Os discussion about using grade 8s and grinding the heads round, but i don't think i'l have a problem, hell i could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time but for some reason i would prefer to start this way.
I told him...
x2
another
arb is a bad ass company, let me explain.
i was trying to trace down the cause of my faulty arb that occured in clayton, i found that the rear was had a leak at the compression fitting where it attaches to the pumpkin, so i unhooked it and added some teflon tape hoping for an easy fix. When i went to tighten it up the compresson collar cracked along with the entire bulkhead fitting sheering from the housing. f*ck. i went to bryan hose and gasket yesterday to find replacements with no luck. called arb today, they are sending me both the new and old model bulkead fitting kits, next day shipping, free under a warranty that i don't have, and i told them this. huh.
i don't know what the f was up with the front arb in clayton, because the other day flem and i jacked the front up, locked the hubs and locker and everything worked how it should, the only thing i have done sinse clayton is change the diff fluid. The only things we could think of was that the fluid was low and the o-rings got dry which caused them to leak or it was just really freakin cold and maybe that had something to do with it. I'll test the front out again when i get the back fixed.
the stock transmission torque arm on the cj has been bending for quite some time now, but it finally has gotten to the point where the dana 300 is resting on the crossmember so i built a new one.
The stock bent one.
the stock arm was 5/32" thick the new replacement 15/64" thick.
Was that a piece of square tubing?
uhhh, yes. why?
Just curious. How did you cut it, with the hot wrench? If so, do you think that the heat will have affected the strength of it any?
if you decide that you want to try stock again i have 2 of them that i'm not going to use