Stak, electric water pump, BTF **** everywhere and you're still running a carb???
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Stak, electric water pump, BTF **** everywhere and you're still running a carb???
I went back and re-read the entire thread to make sure you specifically hadnt brought it up yet :laughing:
QUOTE=agjohn02;198797]horsepower baby[/QUOTE]
Yes. We run them on the drag cars no issues, replaced the one on the nova but it was over a decade old and had sat for quite awhile. Kind of like you said Fred, it bit you in the ass...once.;) Regardless, I have a spare. Funny that it's been on there for over a year and just now someone mentioned it.:confused:
The fuel lines are completely out of the way. There isn't enough space to run them along the top of the frame with the one crossmember you highlighted being the exception. Zip ties were the only thing handy last night though there are only 2 points at which they are zip tied to the frame, clamps would be cleaner.
I wasn't against the electric water pump....I just said I suggested carrying a spare. The one on my camaro was like 5 years old and had logged quite a few miles and apparently was an older design because when I got it back it had a different impeller design and different seal.
Moving onward.
Connected trans shifter linkage, mounted "spin-on" oil filter adapter and filter, oil pressure sending unit, and pulled the pro cam mechanical fuel pump in exchange for a cover plate. Mounted brake pedal assembly, master cylinders, and prop valve.
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Zip ties were the only thing handy last night though there are only 2 points at which they are zip tied to the frame, clamps would be cleaner.[/QUOTE]
cool zip tie trick I learned at the airport.
Run one zip tie around the two hoses like you have them. Tighten it almost all the way tight, but then run another one around that zip tie between the hoses. Then when you tighten them all down, they are together, but separated. Did that make sense? To attach it to the frame you could loop another one through the first two so it will hold it close to the frame but doesn't hold it against the frame. I can draw pictures if you need, keep hoses from rubbing against each other or against metal. Of course the adel clamps are ideal, but zip ties are good precaution in certain spots. Ok, sorry for the hijak, just thought it was a good place to interject that little tidbit.
Oh yeah, that carb is gay, great on a chevelle, crap on a heep. The electric water pump is not needed but bling. We've got a mini-ram that might be cool on there, not sure what we're going to use it on.
Ran the brake lines, need to pick up a couple of fittings tomorrow. Mounted the tail lights. Bent up the rear truss for the anti wrap setup.
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why not drop the fuel cell down a little into the floor or move it to one side so you will have some room in the back? It's always nice to have that extra rom to transport stuff (dogs, icecheast, chairs, baby, etc...)
As for the icecheast, I'd buy one specifically for the Jeep like I did for Lynda's and make a nice mount for it. That's one thing that you'll always need to have with you on the trail...
Looking good!
He has had some long hair lately so I was just wondering if I got confused, as I have known a few female 'Robbies'. :flipoff2:
Thanks. I'm planning on building an ice chest rack down the road. You can't really tell in the pics but there is enough room in between the seats and cell to fit my green igloo and tools. That's the main reason I made slant panels for the bed so I would have more space.
Finished up the brake lines. Snagged some rubberized metal clamps for the brake lines and fuel lines. Also picked up a trans/flywheel dust shield, chiney... Working on wrapping up the anti-wrap setup. Originally I was going to do a "traditional" anti-wrap bar but with the narrow frame there wasn't enough room between the d70 housing and perches for the brackets. I didn't want to have to weld on the nodular iron and mess with nickel rods. So instead I built a little different setup.
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Brakes look nice, I noticed there is no loop right out of the master cylinder like on stock cars. Thoughts?
I would also watch where you put your welding ground. When I weld to an axle I put it as close to the place I am welding as possible.
Damn...with all that surface rust I'd think you were living on the beach...:eek:
I like the idea for the anti-wrap bars, except that it seems to me like you would have a lot of binding during flex. With your bars triangulated like that, I think you would be creating kind of a "roll center" like you see on a 4-link. The whole axle is going to want to pivot around the link mounts, and you'll be fighting sideways movement of the leaf springs. Make sense?
I don't want this to sound bad, but have you ever thought about using a tube bender on the brake lines? You've got this sweet looking engine, sweet master cylinders etc... then you tie them all together with some rough looking hand bent lines? I little hand bender only cost like $6 and is really easy to use... Just a thought - it's those little details that end up making the rig look good - or ghetto:D
Here is Lynda's:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...=lynda&page=24
Thanks Scott, you're right. After going back and looking at the m.c. lines they look like arse and I rushed through it. I'm going to pick up a brake line bender and do it right.
I think I get what you're saying BDR. Hopefully I won't run into any binding issues but we'll just have to see. I would think with leaves you would have much less to worry about over straight up links.
The surface rust is ridiculous, everytime I open the shop there's more and more. Stupid humidity. I was sweating pretty bad during the middle of the day last week and leaned up against the tube fender. Came out later and it was already covered in rust.
Karl, I know what you're talking about and wasn't sure on whether or not to make loops in the lines. I see that mainly on power/booster brake setups not on manuals but I could be wrong. What are the loops helping, building pressure?
Also, when I was welding the truss on the axle I had the ground clamped on either side of the housing. The pic you see with the ground on the spring mount is from when I was tacking the link mount to the frame you see the link attached to.
Loops are just for volume.
loops are for body flex and movement.
****
flem wins
those are like a combination of feller's old anti-wrap and a panhard
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cut those leaf springs in half and put two more links on it
Kept working on it up until Sunday when I came back to CS. Haven't taken any recent pics but much progress has been made.
Reran the fuel and brake lines using the rubberized metal hanger clamps, looks much better. Did a little pre-startup tuning on the motor gapping plugs, checking rockers, plug wire order, timing, etc. Installed radiator hoses and belts, replaced the power steering pump, bled the brakes, and added all the fluids.
Dad got his degree in electrical engineering so I enlisted his help for the wiring project which in turn he took over in full force... It's been pretty awesome just letting him do it his way and go all-out. Couldn't decide on how he wanted to go about the project and ended up with 5 Jegs boxes full of assortmented switch panels, harnesses, wiring, relays, etc... We went through all the possible setups and came to a final decision (should be a fun return order for the unused stuff). He finished up the wiring diagram the other night and we started working on it.
Sell them on here, i might be interested in some of the stuff.
show us the wiring diagram, I did Ed's truck with the KISS harness
The hurricane delayed dad's wiring project but we're starting to make progress. Made the new dash panel out of aluminum, worked on some wiring, and mounted the sliders this weekend.
Finally took some pics of some work I finished up before the semester began.
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Progress is starting to pickup again. Finish the wiring and paint are the last things to wrap up...
While looking at winches awhile back I showed dad the warn powerplant. He liked the idea of having a winch with oba for use on projects at home and around the ranch. We decided to get a warn hd powerplant on a multimount, then replace the solenoids on the m12000 and mount it on the BarnBurner.
Some pics of the dash work and electrical dad sent me from this weekend.
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Dad's been busy...
Are those Zeus fittings around the edges?