make sure there long enough, most flywheels are considerably thicker at the hub than flexplates
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make sure there long enough, most flywheels are considerably thicker at the hub than flexplates
Ford Dana 60 ID help? Inner Passenger axle shaft (the long inner), there appear to be 2 different ones for sale, one is 36.97" and one is 36.68". Any idea how to tell the difference? Do they measure this from the end of the eye for the u-joint to the tip of the splined part? Anyone know?
wouldnt it be from center of u-joint hole to end of shaft?
look up the bom number on the long tube. it will tell you what length you need.
What did Ford do to the D60 front in 08+ to make it turn so much more than anything else? Looks just like a 05-07 axle, but turn about like the forklift.
made it three inches wider and new steering box
How big is big enough for a transmission cooler to keep the fluid cool enough to never have to worry about it? I have a small one on my truck now, as well as the one in the radiator and it wasn't enough. I think I'm going to go with a stand alone cooler and not use the one in the radiator so it's not right next to the hot radiator all the time.
And for an external filter, do I just use a remote mount oil filter?
Also, I'm running new lines, can I use some good hose or would it be better to stick with hard line?
biggest cooler you can afford
use the biggest plate style that you can buy/afford, the plate style work better than the ones with fins
I wouldn't ditch the internal cooler. It helps warm the transmission up quicker in cold weather to reduce wear and still does provide some cooling capacity year round. Case is point, my screwcab came with both an internal and external cooler from the factory. It was built from the ground up to tow so keeping the trans cool was a top priority.
Do any of you chevy guys have the off-road design draglink made out of tube that has the bends in it to clear the engine crossmember? If so can you measure how far it is from the center of the draglink hole on the steering box to the center of the first bend for me?
i have that, but it is out at my ranch, my dad might be going out there this weekend and i can try to get him to take the measurement for you
I had one but cut it up to use the threaded ends for my new bootyfabbed draglink.
How long does it take to change out a third member in a full floater? I know you have to take the shafts out, but do you have to do anything to it when you put a different one in? I was thinking instead of a locker, just getting a second third member with the same gears and welding it to use on the trail.
Third member or carrier?
Ya I am not sure what full floating rear you would be talking about that would have a removable third.
My 609 does, but that is beside the point.
If you are truly talking about a removable third then you have to pull the shafts, drop the d-shaft, remove the third, and RTV in the new third, bolt it back up, replace the d-shaft and axle shafts.
Not that big of a deal. Prob. take an hour in all with lube change and gasket material.
With a different carrier you have to set up the preload and backlash each time because you are changing the carrier bearings as well as you would have to find and run a separate ring gear because it would just be super crazy stupid to transfer the ring gear from the welded carrier to the open one each time.
Ya, not really feasible.
just get a detroit... you will be happy with it on and off road
detroit
http://www.halibrand.com/index_frames.htm problem solved!
Since the original shock mounts on my sterling hang down below the axle tube, I cut some new ones out of some 5/16" that tommy cut off his fairlead mount. Would they work better on the front of the axle tube or on top? When I mount it in my truck, there will be ~4" of lift so mounting distance shouldn't be an issue.
If you mean "will it work better" like will the position of the shock mount effect valving efficiency then your answer is "no" either one will do exactly the same.
If you mean which one "will work better" as the better option I would always go with infront of the axle on the side of the tube, unless space is limited, and use on top of the tube as a last resort. Placing the mount on top of your axle shortens your shock length and could be limiting your suspension travel (although you will not truly know until you get it together and cycle the suspension and measure). You could also mount one shock to the front of the tube and the other to the back of the tube to limit wheel hop.
I mount them on the front. I make my mounts out of bolts, I weld them to the tube sticking straight out. When the axle twists the bolt can rotate in the bushing. When you build tabs and put a bolt through it, then twist it up like we do offroad it's pretty hard on the bushings.
Unless you orient the bolt perpendicular to the axle tube, like Pigpen. BOOM
I got one hub off on my sterling, but the other side is stuck, it's not coming off. The screwdriver method worked for the side I got off, but the other side broke the teeth off the hub socket I got. Can I cut the nut off and buy a new nut for it?
I bet you are turning it the wrong way. One side is reverse thread.
The driver side is reverse thread, same as my 609. Took me a bit to figure that out too.
Well this may be a new one, but long story short I am an idiot and slightly bent the tower on my project boat. Im so pissed at myself. I need some brilliant ideas on something I can do to get it somewhat close to being straight again.
Heres some pics. Hard to tell fromm the rear unless in person, the front pic shows how its off better. If you look at the portside( left) you can see how it runs straight up a long the window and the starboard (right) side is bowing out off the window. I pulled off all the racks and speakers to try to get something working
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...9/IMG_1537.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...9/IMG_1538.jpg
I tried placin a board and using the ol BFH but no luck. Any of yall have any good ideas to try or am I ****ed? This **** is expensive to get replaced so I really just want to get it straight enough for the average person to not notice.
You can remove the tower all the way off too if that helps.
Can you pull it back in from the other side with a winch/come along/high lift/ something else of that nature?
Take it off, chain it to a tree and then pull it straight with your jeep
Thats how we straightened my trailer :flipoff2:
Ive though about it, Id have to tie down one side and then pull off the other side. Only thing is im not exactly sure where to tie to bend the right section. Ive looked at it so much its fn with my eyes.
That and Id prob have to do it with it on the boat because if I bent it wrong off the mounts might not line back up
Did you try to drive under a bridge it was too tall for?
rachet strap and pull it straight
Like my old Coach Kennedy used to say in practice....Run it!