I don't follow you on the top bend rotation thing, as for the extra bracing I'm just going by what I see here http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post278348
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I don't follow you on the top bend rotation thing, as for the extra bracing I'm just going by what I see here http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post278348
You can see the small bracing tab that welded to the tabs the hiem bolts to... I'm sure that is clear as mud too. in order for the bottom to bend up the large piece of 1/4 inch plate would be the weak part.
Originally cage defected from James diff and started knocking off there arms and offered a backer plate that went inside the frame and was basically a small piece of angle. They said it was to prevent the bolt holes from wallering out and being that are bracket is twice the size with more bolts I didn't think we would have much problem
My phone completely screwed that last reply up, my bad.
I saw that tab, I still believe the brace is necessary.
Maybe these pictures can better explain my thinking:
By adding the brace the only weak spot will be the frame in-between the upper bolt holes and the top bend in the frame.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/braceone.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oJo/brace2.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...racepaint1.png
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...racepaint2.jpg
that top rail doesn't have much weight on it, it would move with the rest. just about every mounting point on a chassis is on the side.
FYI, It's easier to say "I don't feel like doing it" than to draw stuff in paint ;)
hey that paint **** took longer than the inventor drawing!
If that's the case than just leave out the bottom bolts and it's all good, right?
just leave it mounted to the side of the chassis... failed attempt at humor
After some more digging I found Cage's improved RA mounts which did not require a backing plate, These appear to have came out in mid 2007 which is right around the time they went bankrupt, hopefully that wasn't caused by faulty RA mounts. I haven't found much feed back but I think Tommy will be fine with what he has and we can keep moving on for now.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...ra-bracket.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...ket-inside.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...et-outside.jpg
Now to prevent confusion, I think a backing plate is a much better idea than boxing the frame or a new cross member but we really just need to get this thing out and rolling again. Then if we feel it is necessary we'll add one.
lots of google image searching to justify "I don't feel like building it" The paint would have been dry by now.
Or spend shop time doing more important stuff... if I could be working in my shop i would, it doesn't take a smart guy to figure that out :flipoff2:
anyways,
got the factory track bar mount (janky ass ball joint thingy) out. I had to grind the bottom of the ball joint off to get the press on there. Pain in the ass but it's done now.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0064-1.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0062-1.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0065-1.jpg
Dom bushing will go where the big new hole is. We're going to make a hockey puck out of some 3/8" plate, then put another piece of plate on top of that, then put some tabs on it for the bushing. The top side is a 3/4" heim that will go into the factory track bar mount or vica verca, whichever works better.
It just hit me that we have all of the parts to set this bitch on the ground. It's pretty exciting.
To get it drivable all I need is
-brake line fittings (thanks alot ford for using some wierd ass size)
-Shocks (going to warranty out some ranchos at work for some the right size)
-Retube the driveshaft and buy a conversion joint.
-Mount the tires
before you go too far with the trac bar and steering, have you made sure your angles are going to be right to prevent bump steer and other goofy ****?