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Interesting upgrade...
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=971916
I'm not sure the added clamping surface is worth the price of replacing pads before they are spent but if you have to change out the brake pads anyway then it might be worthwhile.
A quick rockauto search revealed that the caprice pads are $10 more than the k-20 pads for the same brand, semi-metallic. Interesting....
Cool, I run the 52s front and rear. Ill have to remember
Ya me too. Next time I change pads I will look into it. Prob. won't be for a while though. It doesn't see many road miles and so not much pad wear.
I did a similar upgrade with defender shat on my disco. the bigger pads made a noticeable difference
Milky oil in 97 Z71 with 5.7 vortec. What's the most common cause? Think I've heard something about bad intake manifold?
Dexcool likes to **** up some intake manifolds.
Replace the intake manifold gaskets and douche the block with mineral spirits when you have the intake off. Dexcool isn't the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
galvanic corrosion?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
electrolysis iirc and it often eats the rear of the intake manifold water passages, you could get a leak down tester, pump it up and see where it leaks. its either a head gasket or the manifold. i have a pump if you wana borrow it
that's the word I was looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I've done probably 10+ intake gasket changes on different vortec 350's and the gasket has been the failure every time. The part of the intake that coolant came in contact with was slightly eroded in some cases, but no more so than what i've seen in a traditional smallblock with a steel head and intake running normal green coolant. The intake gaskets they used on these from the factory are ****. Felpro sells a redesigned intake gasket for these. Use those, and slightly coat the coolant ports on the head and intake with RTV before reassembly, and you won't have a problem again.
Anybody used these? Seems too cheap to be true type deal, but I've been seeing plenty of good reviews.
http://brakeperformance.com/about-us.php
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oJo/brakes.png
ANyone remember the picture I posted of my lower intake on my 98 Tahoe? It looked like the coolant had eaten away at one of the passages. Kinda looked like a bullet hole. Had 106k on it and had never done the gaskets. Had always topped off with Dex cool or water but probably had never done a full coolant flush.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
[/random entry into GM intake gasket talk]
How do you know when bearings have gone bad
(serious question haha)
Loud noises?
My truck is full of those, can you be more specific?
I'm most concerned about the bearings in the 9 inch. Tomorrow I'm going to replace the pinion seal, but I am concerned about all the bearings inside the axle. Also, since I'll be changing the fluid, I'll have the chunk out and can "inspect" it for damage. Only problem is I have no idea what I'm looking for. Can someone link me to some videos/pics/anything useful?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
What makes you think a bearing is going out? when on jacks can you shake the wheels?
search youtube, i am sure there is a vidoe or two on there that would be helpful, or take the third to a reputable shop and see if they will take a quick look at it for you
by the way, don't lose the little brass washers that go in between the third member and the housing. Actually, they're probably pretty torn up, so get some new ones.
Checked out youtube last night. Learned about backlash and how the axle is put together, but nothing really about bearing replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Who is a good, reputable, local shop who can take a look at it?
Bring the third to DowlingQuote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
any info on a 05 superduty front axle?
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2343958195.html
Unit bearing hubs. Look up how much the conversion kits cost
http://media.il.edmunds-media.com/no...412115_815.jpg
Travis you were right. They made a 2wd version just for jumping
05+ would be one of the more desireable unit bearing 60's as is has 35 spline outers and some came with real manual(warn knock-off) hubs. people bash unit bearings but just about every spidertrax and currie axle i have ever seen has em.
05 will be a coil sprung axle. I think all of the coil sprung stuff is cast into the axle instead of welded on, but I could be wrong. If so it will make suspension setup more difficult.
What Ryan said, but make sure you find a matching rear
it seems people only bash unit bearing axles when they have to replace the unit bearing cause of the cost, i havent seen much on the strength difference but i wouldnt think it would be too different than a traditional hum assembly
yes but when it comes time to change an axleshaft i would much rather have a unit bearing than a conventional bearing assembly. There are quite a few advantages to a unit bearing, but they are expensive to replace
They do not go out very often. Of all the many 99+ fords my family has had, we replaced them only on a 12" lifted f250 and a old utility company work truck. Your bronco will probably have gone the way of all 78-79 broncos long before the unit bearings go out. As a bonus, the axle is already set up for a good suspension.
I heard you can use sterling 10.25 ring and pinions in a 10.5. Is this true? Also, does the superduty 60 use the same r/p as a normal 60?
yes I am pretty sure that they are the same r/p but check randy's first
Yes you can use the 10.25 gears in the 10.5, but I don't reall know why you would.
Gonna take a stab at making my own driveshafts for my D300 swap. Got a few parts laying around. :D
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/Photo539.jpg
So, spicer coats these slips with something they call Glidecoat (I think it's Xylan or something engineering smart sounding). One of my driveshafts the coat is peeling. Anyone see a problem cleaning the coating off and run without?
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/Photo532.jpg
I would say you have enough parts to make a few driveshafts. What kinda driveshaft do you need for your d-300 swap? I have a shortened XJ front driveshaft I would sell you. 1310 u-joints CV, not sure on the length. It was a spare for my jeep but I will be going 1350 joints and won't need it.
As for that glidecoat cr*p, I wouldn't think twice about wire wheeling it off and just lubing the splines up with some axle grease
I've got most of what I need. I'm going to pick up a 2.75" .120 wall tube to sleeve and lengthen the rear shaft (currently 2.5" .083 wall). For the front I'm going non-cv. I've got a 2" .120 shaft, but it had a saginaw cv on it, so I need to pick up a standard 1310 yoke for it.
Does anybody have some good info on welding to cast? It would be with my 180 amp mig
cast steel or cast iron? hit a grinder on it and see what the sparks look like, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Spark_testing_2.pngQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
If it is cast steel just go ahead and weld it like you would normal steel maybe a little preheat if it is real thick over >1"
if it is cast iron you really should use some hi-nickle rods but I have welded it with mig by cleaning it good, preheat, weld, peen the weld, post heat,
What is it that you are welding?
axle diff housings
preheat, weld, postheat worked well for me