kind of an old school grind, considering there are much more up to date cam grinds using split duration and lift( and on a 112 or 114 lsa for fuel injection) for an off-road rig readily available off the shelf.
Printable View
kind of an old school grind, considering there are much more up to date cam grinds using split duration and lift( and on a 112 or 114 lsa for fuel injection) for an off-road rig readily available off the shelf.
I am still pretty 'motor' stupid when it comes to internals. We told Mark that it needed to be a good motor at idle and not 'need' to spin over 5500. I specifically told him I didn't want a race motor, it will make way more than what I need (and the rest of the driveline will be able to handle :D ). The internals should be good enough if I ever decide to drop this one in an old Nova it will just need some adjusting on the FI and a cam that will fit that situation.
Hopefully one of these days I can find a dynoday in texas and take the toerig and the beast and get the numbers run on both of them. (pretty sure the dieselfags would love to see the beast up on the dyno. :laughing: )
that cam is pretty choppy at idle in 454, but more cubes will help. in my 68 I tried the 280,292, and the 305 none of which i would use again, keep in mind this was almost 15 years ago and cam grinds have advanced alot since then. in the end i think you will need something with a 112+ to make FI work good because the vacuum will fluctuate too much at idle.
Would a vacuum can help even this out some at idle?
Ok, we got her fired up and 'running'. When you crank her, it runs up to ~3500 rpm for 10-20 seconds then jumps to 4000-4500 for a second and then falls on it's ass and dies out. When it starts to die, you can feather the pedal a bit and it will jump back to the 3500 and start the cycle over again.
Any thoughts? All the vacuum ports are plugged and the best we can tell, all the electric is back where it belongs. I did not check the fuel pressure on the regulator gauge, will have to do that once I get it home on the trailer.
Cleaned up some burnt wiring tonight, it's been backfiring a bit as it shuts down and causing a slight fire on the throttle bodies and it burnt the wiring and injector plugs up a good bit. The wiring should be ok for now, just need to source new plugs once I get the high rpm issue fixed.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...313_190701.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...313_203753.jpg
Not sure to check if these are working correctly. I pulled them to see what they looked like. Only one is connected in this setup. I believe these are the idle air controllers???
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...313_212159.jpg
Not sure where this red wire on the left solenoid goes or if it even has a home. Can't find any wires that it should connect to.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...313_212856.jpg
red thing doesn't go anywhere. its to prime the pump, its a factory thing that got left
Ok, think I am 'closer' to the culprit. I switched the port the MAP sensor (seen here)...
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...314_194453.jpg
so that it is connected as you see now.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...314_194515.jpg
I just switched the MAP line and the line with the screw in the end and she quit stalling out finally. Still runs up around 3500-4000 rpm though but it's pretty steady. I am pretty sure that the intake is going to have to be pulled and resealed as I think it is pulling air through there allowing it to rev like that. (fingers crossed this is the problem and I will try to pick up gaskets or rtv tomorrow while I am in town. Any suggestions on this from the pro's?)
Got her cranked up and idling for a minute or so. Jacked with the timing while it was running and can't get it started again right now. (starter is almost shot I think). Now just have to try and coax flem into walking me through the chip burning process.... :gigem:
ed your box is full
heres the reply
that was on tommy's, not yours. Yours is stuck in open loop due to that previous dead cylinder.
to burn chips you'll need an eprom burner. I use a cheap chinese one that requires a computer with a real parallel port.
moates sells a USB burner
http://www.moates.net/burn2-chip-pro....html?cPath=64
tunerpro you'll need this software to read diagnostics and tune the chip
http://www.tunerpro.net/download/Set...oFree_v414.exe
this bin definition
http://www.tunerpro.net/download/bin..._tpv4_v200.xdf
this datastream definition
http://www.tunerpro.net/download/dat...17_0D_v250.adx
All of my stuff is split between 2 storage units in different towns. I think the programmer is up here, I'll dig around for it this weekend. If I find it whats an address I can send a chip to?
It's midnight, so no 5000 rpm revs tonight. Hate to wake the neighbors in the next county up. :gigem:
Nice!
It has a slight backfire. Not sure if it's timing or a valve again. Fires up and idles pretty decently right now though.
The knock sensor is not plugged in, is this a 'major' issue that needs to be resolved?
If the knock sensor was tuned out by flem then no. (I think it was) but if not it will make it go into limp mode.