How hard would it be to tie it into the spring bucket with a a few bolts/spacers running parallel with the frame, or a bolt on the bottom of the frame?
Or. . . .
RUN IT!
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How hard would it be to tie it into the spring bucket with a a few bolts/spacers running parallel with the frame, or a bolt on the bottom of the frame?
Or. . . .
RUN IT!
I'm trying to reduce the amount of ghetto/hack job on this thing :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
There would be no good way to run a bolt like that and the strength gained would be minimal if any. You can barley see but the only place where there would even be room for drilling is in line with the top bolt hole or higher.
Time for a rattle can job. maybe some od green, or even flat brown since that is one of the original colors. especially with the trim gone, two tone I think looks good when it is really clean.
Speaking of, maybe a paint job is what JB needs as well, instead of a new rig. Kind of like puttin a wig on your girlfriend :)
Weld the mount to the frame, or just build a new one out of 2x4 rectangle tube, then brace it back to the engine crossmember. Thats what we did on Frick's
Didnt frick do that because he was using a 4 inch drop pitman arm? With the added leverage of having to lowered the track bar bracket I could definitely see why extra bracing would be necessary but keeping this thing low makes room real tight under there. Might just try to weld it of possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Frick's was as low as we could make it and he used high steer, making things even more difficult.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
The factory one is stamped steel, making one, even if it puts the mount at the same point, allows you to give yourself more weld surface then the factory one, thus minamizing chance for failure. Just as with earlier issues with this build, by not doing this would be booty fab. You the chance to make it right the first time so why not do it? I know tubby wants to get this thing on the road, and you want it out of your hair, but tkae the extra steps.
On another note blanken**** is right, keeping everything as flat as possible is ideal, it will give you the closest to nuetral path in the movement of the suspension
Being that the budget is not unlimited not everything can be ideal from the get-go... Isn't this a wheeling club?
and No one said it wasn't ideal to have a flat(er) drag link?
Me and Tommy both agreed it was better to wait for high steer, in which the entire steering and trac-bar would have to be re-done, then to go with a drop pitman arm and new track bar bracket. The way it is set up right now is not prone to failure, in personal experience I never had a problem with my frame mount but I did rip the bolt out of the axle mount on the d44. Either way the steering drag link is at less of a angle than what it was, the trac-bar more closely mimics the drag link and honestly I think Tommy has a lot more other **** to worry about.
In fact I still think Tommy has done a pretty decent job, especially with his budget.
Damn people that steering is fine. It's a 79 Bronco, not a Ferrari.:laughing:
Did a couple of full lock turns around Travis' property earlier. No rubbing and the turning circle is about the same.
Tonight Matt is coming over to help me put the rear in. Tomorrow after work i'll do brake lines and have the rollers changed out for the 37's.
I spent the hot part of the day cleaning the shop.
How was driving with no brakes?
I'm used to it
Matt and I got the rear done tonight. I love leaf springs, they're too easy.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0113.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0114.jpg
Old u-bolts were a bitch so I just cut them off with a grinder and saved Matt some pain.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0116.jpg
A salute to the 9". Never let me down until I really needed it. This thing is toast. The only good things left are the gears and shafts.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0117.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0118.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0119.jpg
The stock shock tabs are held on with u bolts. I don't want that crap so I'm going to weld on some conventional shock tabs tomorrow.
The driveshaft will have to be shortened 3 or 4 inches.
What are you making the shock tabs out of? Why not just weld the superdookie ones to the tubes?
And go get the 37s swapped onto the front.
Gonna get a different yoke for the axle or add a flange adapter to the shaft?