Not yet I will try that tomorrow.
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Not yet I will try that tomorrow.
Yep, I'm with Creighton.
Will it not turn over at all before it hits the 16.5? That seems like a high voltage to be running on a vehicle. Is it not a 12 volt system?
Won't turn over at all and yeah it is 12v
Still fighting this, would it be a bad idea to throw a tube in it?Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I imagine the coning could have some effect on the seal. Maybe look into some anti-coning rings? Have you checked with soap and water to see exactly where the leak is coming from? Make sure theres no pinholes in the weld on the rim side of the bead lock?
You do not need soap to find it, you can feel it. The actual steel wheel looks good. I am pretty sure it is the ring. Traile Ready ssaid they would sell me a new ring for $125, but I am curious, do you think it would be kosher to put a tube in it? That is what tractors do right?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I think a tube would be ok. Is there such a thing as a 42" tube for a 16.5" rim?
MC2100 is a good cheap swap, 2150 has adjustment for altitude built in... good carb iverall and they were used all over the place. just check and watch the venturi size.... for a 258 you want the 1.08 not the 1.21 or the other one.....
Tube should work since the bead lock will keep the wheel from spinning inside the tire. Yes old tractors used tubes. Constant pain in the ass since you can't just plug them whenever they get flat and it costs $80 to get it fixed.
I need to buy a sheet of brushed steel. Nothing huge, but where can I find it in the BCS area?
Homedepot sells metal and wire cup brushes.
Mack bolt and steel should be able to cut whatever you need. Harbor freight for wire brushes and wheels.
So this is something I'll have to brush myself? Is it possible to buy it already brushed? Don't want this to look like ass.
I don't think you'll be able to buy it locally. Maybe try cabinet makers and see what they got. The ornamental stuff gets expensive.
stainless sheet and some 320 sand paper
Thanks
Can I prime/ paint it after? How expensive is this stuff?
When building a drive shaft what is a good percentage for compression and extension of the splines? Say you have 6" of total spline engagement in the shaft. At ride I would think you would want a min. of 50% engagement (in this case 3"). A previous shaft I built had 75% full engagement at ride height but that seems like a lot. I guess this question has a lot to do with your related suspension travel.
The movement of the pinion is going to take or give an identical amount of spline portion when cyling from full compression to full droop. If you leave it at 50% then at full droop you will have very little spline engagement. Check how much it moves under full compression and only make it so that at full compression it is fully engaged, then you leave yourself as much spline engagement as possible at full droop.
I've been dealing with this for the past week and that's what I ended up doing. Clear as Mud?
I don't know that this is right or wrong, I take the distance yoke to yoke of the truck (say 36"), then I take the slip of the driveshaft (say 6"), subtract 1" from the slip (so now 5"), divide that in 2 (2.5"), then I make the shaft compressed length the yoke length minus the previous number (36" - 2.5" for a compressed shaft length of 33.5"). There is no magic to that, just what I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
So at ride height you would have the shaft compressed approximately 60%? This is more in the ball park of what I was thinking. Just take the total length of spline (6") then multiply by .60 = 3.6" and at ride height there should be 2.4" of exposed splines. So 40% for compression and 60% for extension.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I always try to have as much spline engagement as possible, so i"ll build the D-shaft to be almost fully compressed under full compression of the suspension. I do this for two main reason: 1) it's easy to shorten drive-shafts 2) full compression should be a constant and is easy to plan for.
For leaf springs I allow a little more room because of axle rap and you don't want the drive shaft getting into the transfer case.
That's what I said.
I talked to jay at bvd today and he said that they do what Karl said to measure spline engagement.
See I am just like a pro, only I do ****tier work!Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I did 65% compressed at ride height. So about 4" compressed out of 6" total. I will let you know if there are any problems in the future.
any shops in cs that carry cb radio stuff besides just radioshack? I need an antenna and mount, left mine at home
The bigger truck stops carry CB stuff sometimes.
walmart might have some of the stuff
Performance trucks on 21 (mack dealer) carries cb stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by Deluxe
I think freightliner on hwy 6 carries stuff too
What size is the axle retainer bolt on the 9 inch... Need to go get some deep sockets tomorrow...
9/16 I think. And you should be able to do it with an extention. Deep not required.
Carli's radius arms:
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/DSCN0571.jpg
I would call this more of a 3-link and had a hand in building a similar set-up for a Zuk in high school . We called it a 3-link because it was (1) radius arm, (2) single link bar, (3) trac-bar.
And the question:
Do y'all think the shock makes much of a difference as opposed to not being there?
Just ordered a new 3" leaf pack and Fox 2.0 Remote Resi's for the Taco. Resi mounts are weld on, anyone know who could help me with that? Anyone want to help with the install? Everything should be here by next week, id like to have it done before we go to the Chupacabra 300.
Dowling (my shop) can helpQuote:
Originally Posted by hudhawk
Awesome, ill let you know when everything comes in. and we have to do brake lines too:DQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
2007 JK stock track bar/steering stabilizer mount ripped off the axle and cracked while wheeling (open front end/33" tires/no lift). I fabbed this up; it is 3/16" where the stock bracket was 1/8" it also incorporates more weld surface area and moves the steering stabilizer mount up to the top of the tie rod as opposed to the bottom. I think it turned out alright.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03025.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03027.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03031.jpg
Can we get a high resolution or close up of this one?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
How hard, or how dumb would it be to attempt to drill out and re-tap a 9/16" fine thread to 5/8" fine thread? It would need to be tight tolerances because it would be used for studs to hold high steer arms to a knuckle for high steer and hydro assist.
For a 9/16"-18, you would drill a 33/64" hole, for a 5/8"-18, it is 37/64". The 37/64" hole should clear out all the cut 9/16" (36/64") threads I believe. Getting it to actually cut threads and not be breaking taps is going to be a labor of patience.