Printable View
Thanks Ed.
So I guess the answer is yes, it is possible. Is it smart or economical? The answer to that is no.
Buying new studs that would work with the existing knuckles are about $50. The proper drill bit and tap to modify the knuckles would run $70. Not to mention the labor and risk of F-ing something up. I guess my mind is made up.
If you are a bad dude with a mill you can do it, but it is probably more economical to just buy the right studs.
Is this worth a ****? It looks appealing because I wouldn't have to mount anything in the cab.
http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-HHROADTR...6667668&sr=8-9
http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat...6670687&sr=1-5
This is what I have. Good range and clarity. You'll look like a complete chach if you have a handheld imo
http://www.walcottcb.com/cobra-29-lx...io-p-2074.html
I have this one($100 or so on eBay). And yes, the handheld is going to be more annoying than a hard mounted one.
coming from the biggest chach in the club... I had a cobra 26, or whatever that **** it was, and don't like it. It takes up to much space and is annoying 99% of the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I've used a cheap, old, garage-sell, hand-held before and prefer that over hard mounting and in theory I could use it for multiple rigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
Mainly I was wondering if the extra antenna was worth the money, or stick to a cheaper hand-held?
Travis,
This is a good compromise between not having to mount a permanent box and not having to rely on a hand held. I installed one in my Dad's FJ-40 and he loves being able to disconnect the handset and throw it in the center console.
http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-75WXST-4...cmu_pg__header
Yeah in highschool one of my friends had that one. hard mounted antenna so you get the best of both worlds.
Thanks I'll look into thatQuote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
That's another hang-up I have, not really wanting a hard-mounted antenna for every day.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
if you don't want to hard mount an antenna just get a magnetic one that you keep behind your back seat or in your tool box
I believe that's what the hand-held a posted hasQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Hand held blows farm animals. I will never go back. Get a 40$ hard mount one from walmart and call it good.
They make quick disconnects for hard mount antennas.
370 shipped a good deal on chromo shafts for a dana 44?
Yes, very. Does that include joints?
Any recommendations on a decent priced quality set of a/c guages (r134)?
I forgot to measure my axles when I took them out and rebuilt them, anybody know how long the rear axle shafts are on a 79 bronco?
32" but I'm not sure why you would need to know that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
they are the same on each side? one looks longer than the other...
pass. side is 32" from face of flange to end of splines.
I need to remove a very stubborn brake drum... I know this sounds noobish, but I've taken these things off plenty of times. Usually a good hammer whack or prying with some screwdrivers will do the trick, but no. It feels like there is a spring in the middle of the brake system holding the drum on. The parking brake is off, and I can turn the wheel freely, but the drum is being a little bastard.
Find a real man to whack the face of the drum with a hammer for you.
On the back of the drum mounting plate there is an oval whole for making adjustments to the brake, that is where the little star thingy is, try to adjust this in, that will physically move the pads in. Next step, call Travis, have him hit it with a hammer.
Can you turn the drum with your hands, or only with the wheel on? If the drum spins easily enough by hand then the pads aren't contacting the drum, just beat the **** out of it with a hammer
I've had the pads wear a line in the drum before where you could spin the drum, but the pads still caught on when you tried to pull them off.
Have tried hitting the shoulder with a BFH...
Karl - the adjuster you're talking about, how do I turn it?
Tommy - I can turn it by hand with the wheel off just fine.
As I'm trying to pull it off with a screwdriver, I can see the drum start prying off. Then it will violently snap back onto the backing plate, all while making a sound like a spring extending.
Auto parts stores have a tool, I use a flat head screw driver.
Here is the magic tool
http://paceperformance.com/i-5927391...ting-tool.html
There is a lip worn into your old brake shoes. The shoes are held on with a combination of springy nail looking thingy's. Once you do what karl says it will come off. The tool is called a brake spoon i believe.
Agreed that the brake shoes are f*cked and holding the drum on. If they have worn a deep enough groove then i have heard of people having to cut the drum off in sections. That would suck. Pray it's as easy as bringing in the shoe tensioner.
Yeah, like I said, a flat head...Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I use the ryno-smash method, then find a new drum at a junkyard and put it into the magic bag
I have adjusted the drums all the way down. Used a screwdriver since oreilly didnt have the tool (it was actually pretty easy to do with a screwdriver)
These little bastards still wont come off.. I'm going to HF today to get the biggest hammer and pry bar they have. Then I'll just hit it til I feel better and hopefully something will fall off
Anybody know how to completely remove the alarm system on a 99 suburban (old body style) or have a key fob they would let go for real cheap? My alarm is being a pain in the ass, even in valet mode.
Changing out front hub assembly on '05 Silverado, anybody done it? Seems fairly straightforward.
Front right starting making a squealing noise on turns, jacked it up and I've got some nice play on that side.
Probably just removing the wheel, caliper, and rotor; unbolt the hub assembly and put the new one on in reverse order. Cheaper brands of hub assemblies tend to not fit as well as the more expensive brands and I'm pretty sure moog is one of the few manufactures that still cold forge parts. I've also heard good things about whatever is inside of napa parts boxes, but I'm not sure who makes them. Not sure on chevy trucks but I know on the fords you need new spindle nuts if it's 4wd.
Yeah that's about what I figured just don't want any surprises before I tear into the DD. I think NAPA Premium is Moog on some stuff. I remember Ford's having the one time use nuts, haven't seen any mention of that on Chevys.
All of the national bearing hubs at advance are moog.
If i were you I would buy one from a dealer. According to factory specs on the 05 superduty hubs (which cost $500), the ones that we carry on the shelf are not useable. There is a considerable amount of play in them out of the box.
Just for future reference if anybody searches for this...
www.dmaxstore.com sells Timken Hub Assemblies for a Chevy Silverado for $189.95 with a lifetime warranty. Timken is the OEM manufacturer, and this same part goes for $242.95 at Autozone with only a 3 year warranty. So that's kinda awesome.
Will a low pinion 44 carrier fit inside a high pinion 44 housing?
70s and 80s junk should interchange.
some stuff like a true track is directional, watch out for that.