That and if you start drilling holes in different places then your drag link and track bar won't be parallel and will cause bump steer. I'm assuming this thing still gets some street time so that would be no bueno.
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That and if you start drilling holes in different places then your drag link and track bar won't be parallel and will cause bump steer. I'm assuming this thing still gets some street time so that would be no bueno.
and it is a stress point in the front suspension. stock and factory ones oval out leading to death wobble and it is sometimes hard to determine where it is coming from
any updates?
Not really.
I have been driving it alot.
Took all soft top bracketry off.
Got the PSC sliders on.
Fixed some minor stuff from Carnage Canyon.
Traded for some half doors which I really like. They are also white, so its mismatched black white everywhere, kinda looks goofy.
Also got the passenger side seat bracket move-back kit on yesterday.
About to fix factory spare tire mount that cracked in hopes to make it hold the 35 for a few more trips.
Put some fresh bump bump speakers in it today. About to load up the toolbox in prep for Shiloh.
Where did you end up getting your fenders from?
I like the fenders he chose, they look good. This jeep looks like a cop car almost with the black and white body panels.
Poison spyder
I think I have a bestop tire carrier for a TJ that I will let go for cheap if you are interested
It bolts through the body to the roll cage on the top and the body mount on the bottom.
Not ready just yet, but want to be on the look out. I have not searched for axles in close to 10 years. So many new options out there.
Width.
After wheeling it some, I really have no issue with the track width. It is nice fitting easily through trees. Would not want to go fullsize. From brief searching, looks like stock TJ is about 60" and a d60 is around 70". Would splitting that be reasonable?
Just for reference, what are the off the shelf options? Currie, G2, Dynatrac? Could put together a Spyder9?
Should I just be on the look out for a kp60? 10.25 for the rear to be different? My concern with narrowing an axle down is the pita of ordering a new shaft and not having readily availible spares.
My dumb plan right now would be to keep it close to same height, still run good 35s, tummy tuck, long-arms, keep it fairly simple
Out of curiosity, what does a TJ Rubicon front 44 go for used? Still have the idea of building 44s and keeping it on 35s.
Waggy 44 and 9 inch, Locked rear, auburn limited slip front, 37s keep it light weight.
Building from a custom housing gets real expensive real quick because you have to buy every piece and then you have to put it all together. You'd be time and money ahead to put axles in with chromos and disk brakes in the rear.
I'd just buy a super 30 kit and super 44 kit with whatever locker you plan on running.
The only real argument against the super XX stuff is if you did manage to break something won't be able to find replacements from the Slims of the world, but it is pretty relaxing to park it, drink, then order replacement parts on Monday. Its not like you are going to find replacement rubicon shafts out in the wild anyway.
Lynda's front is 64" it's a little too narrow, tires rub the frame. I built the buggy to 65 or 66 I think.
My front is 63.5WMS and the rear is 62" WMS. If I had to do it again I would go an inch or two wider. Maybe 66"WMS in front and 64.5"WMS in rear.
If you're gonna keep it on 33"s then I agree with Flem. Polish those turds and be done with them. Otherwise I would build ruffstuff 609s front and rear and dump the coin into what matters. Then never worry about them again. (Sparlings d-44 and 9" suggestion is not bad either)
Scott,
Is that a yj frame? Aren't they a bit wider then a CJ? I don't have any frame clearance problems on mine.
yes - YJ frame