Printable View
It runs now. Gota dam oil leak on the back of the valve cover that I mounted alot of **** to. Now I've got to put the electric fans on so I can drive it. I'll fix the oil leak in CS. Hopefully build exhausts tomorrow, may start today, but there's a Kevin Fowler concert in Kocuisko tonight, and I'm likely to get drunk.....
hmm, heat sink, guess I should make one.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Got about not much done today. Fans are on. I hooked an unfused relay power wire and ground wire to the two connected terminals on the relay, made smoke. Then me and Kurt built him a spare tire carrier.
Just got to drive it, dam fast, hesitates.
ill race ya...
Though you may have more power I've got less weight. After I get the custom chip, we'll think about it.
Whoohoooo it runs like its supposed to!!!! Turns out if you hook the distributer vacuum line to a 1/4" bolt instead of the distrubuter, it works better.
how is the idle? and did you ever figure out what size the injectors are?
The idle is still kinda odd. Most of the time it idles too high (~1000), and sometimes it idles right, and sometimes it don't idle. I think 700 rpm would be a good idle speed. I'm thinkin the CTS might be the cause, I'll change that out today. And I guess that stuff about AMC motors and GM knock sensors not liking eachother wasn't true. Only other thing it does is sometimes at light throttle it just cuts out for half a second, but I'll worry about that if its still there after the chip and I fix the TPS connector.
I'll go get those injector numbers when I'm done with breakfast.
The overall condition of jeep now is: Runs, with questionable highway driveability.
Started fixing misc body damages.
Got new 4 core radiator now. Makes jeep motor stay cool.
Also found a vacuum leak between the adapter and manifold, fixed it. Runs about the same.
Got 4x4 working again. Put a drive flange on one side, and made a fancy new hub dial thing on the other. Remove a 1/2" bolt, and it locks. Screw the 1/2" bolt back in, and it unlocks. I'd take a picture, but I'm not seeming to find my camera. Found the passenger side u-joint is dead. Somebody find me a bigger axle dammit.
So, what's the suspension joint to get now? RE, Currie, or maybe something new and cool I haven't heard about yet?
grader ball
Blue torch has "rock bushings" and 1 1/4" heims. Polyperformance has uniballs and flexxx joints.
Also
--AOR Orbit Eye Joint
--Price $69.95
--Flex Degree 38*
--Size 2.5 inch
--Width- 3 3/4inch
--Ball Joint "precision-machined, cold-rolled steel ball"
--Cartirdge/Race "molybdenum-based nylon socket"
-- No Zirk fitting
--Uses, Leaf springs
--Issues, ??
Molybdenum Propertise
--AllPro Johnny Joint
--Price $38. each
--Flex Degree 30*
--Size O.D. 2.5 inch
--Width- ??
--Gets there Joints from Currie,
BUT they drill the ball out to except a 5/8 shackle Bolt with Zirk fittg thus Lubricating the bolt inside the ball joint to not rust.
--Plus they Cross Drill the Ball to allow grease to Enter the ball joint.
--Use a C-clip on One end to hold joint together.
--Cartridge/race joint material still unknown
--BAll Joint material , UNKNOWN
--sells about 50 a month
- reports no failues with joint, search Board for feedback
--NEED A PRESS TO assemble
--USes, Leaf Shackle Pivot
--Issues/complaints: Difficult to install or rebuild NOT a SCREW Cap
X-Joint "Rod End
--Price--> $34.95 each
--Flex degrees ??*
--Size--> 2 5/8
--Width- ??
--Nickel Plated Ball stress proof ball
--DOM shell with tapped hole for zerk
--Cartidge/races-->Oil Injected Nylon Races (Minimal Wear)
--Poly cup with integrated grease passage, zerk fitting.
--9/16" Bore
--.188 Wall Dom Outer tube
--2 5/8" Wide at bolt bore flanges.
--Zinc Plated threaded retainer, washer and snap ring
--Stainless Steel Set Screw
--Uses: Control arm,
--Issues: ?? Not a SCREW Cap
Rubicon Express joint
originally designed to replace the heim joints
--Price $32. 2inch Flex 22* degrees -for track bar upper control arm
--Price $39. 2 5/8 inch 18* degrees - for Lower control arm
--Ball joint polished chrome ball, no specs Oval/Egg shape not true sphere
--Uses screw cap and C-clip
--Cartridge/Race UHMW nylon
--Tube Zerk fitting
--requires tool to tighten
--Uses: Control arms, track bars, Jeeps
--Issues: ?? Buy tightening tool $17.
--Currie Joint Same as Allpro
--Price $
--Flex Degrees 30*
--size 2 5/8 inch
--Uses screw in caps to hold joint together
--Cartridge/race "high88" urethane,like ploy bushings
--Ball Joint, 4340 Chromoly
--requires tool to fasten
--Uses: Rod end, Control arms, Jeeps
Edit add From "TRD":
Flexxx Joint
-$39.95
-2 5/8" Mounting Width
-9/16" Bolt
-Flex degrees 22.5*
-Wear Resistant
-Self Lubricating
-Greasable (to keep dirt out)
-Nilatron Races
-Hard Chrome Plated Ball
-Fully Rebuildable
Nilatron Propertise
I think AOR for their races and Flexxx Joint to be the best according to Specs
EDIT ADD : INformation THANKS goes to ravencr1
also found at http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301595
seems like it's personal preference or for different applications,their all pretty close to the same in design and quality from what I've seen, just not the same in difficulty of assembly.
I think I like the Allpro ones. About the same price as all the others, greasable and lots of misalignment. It's gonna be a real triangulated 3 link (with panhard) and bushings on one end so the joint in the upper link will need lots of misalignment, almost thinking of putting joints in both ends on that link. I think St. John built a simular suspension, but I haven't looked at the pics yet. Now that I have interweb I'll have to take a lookie.
I cut most of the old front suspension off last night, should have the F-150 springs on by end of today. I'm gonna do some grinding on the axle housing and inboard the springs 1" per side from where they are now which is 2" outboarded from stock location but the spring will be 0.5" wider so the center will really only be 0.75" in from where it is now or still outboarded 1.25" from stock but the stock springs were 2" so the inside of these springs will be 0.75" out from where the inside of the stock springs were so a normal shackle mounted through the top of the frame with a small spacer on the inside of the spring end will work instead of the slider box I was thinking of. Tu comprende?
ryan, douche your box.