Good, we can practice on yours before we get around to mine.
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Good, we can practice on yours before we get around to mine.
you can help if you want, but since I won't get around to it until around christmas, I'm gonna leave my tools at my parents house. It just easier than hauling them back and forth, especially since my parts pile and everything else is there. That cool?
Man, you're killing me.
I was all prepared to have a welder in the garage, but I guess that's cool. Any chance of getting that welder up here when its my time under the knife?
probaly so, but I thought you weren't planning on doing yours for a long time?
Yea, I wasn't, but I think I've decided to stay stateside post-graduation, so I'm slowing getting back on the ball with collecting pieces and whatnot. All I'm lacking now is steering, suspension, and some steel.
well when do you think you would want to do it? I just figured leaving stuff at my parents worked well for me because of the weird schedule I have (they're in the country, so I can work early in the morning, or really late at night if I want). Plus, if something doesn't go as planned, I can always steal my dads tacoma for a few days until I can get back to working on the 4runner
It's cool if you want to keep the tools at your parent's place, whatever works best for you. I'm not too sure of a timeline for the swap for me yet. It's still some time off, earliest would probably be near the end of the winter break.
Where do your parents live?
if you were smart you would offer to keep his tools in your garage
pay more attention
that was the original plan, but I decided to keep my tools at home at least until the end of semester, since I never seem to have any free time anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
And garrett, my parents live about an hour from here. I still may bring the tools up during the christmas break, or even at the end of it when I'm done with the hard stuff. Its just I got to thinking about how hard it can be to work together on schedules in order to get a chance to go out there and work when you're around, and how if something goes wrong I may be forced to leave the runner until I can fix it. With my parents place, I can work no matter what time or day it is, and I can always steal my dads truck in case of an emergency. Plus I have ways of handling the big stuff like axles and so forth at my parents. I just figure it will be much easier and faster to do the SAS and related stuff at home, then worry about bringing the tools up here later
Okay, update time. The taco is gone, so its time to start really collecting parts. The D60 should be here by the end of the week. Still gotta find the time to go hunt down a D70 for the rear.
As for the D60, I went with a dodge one with drive flanges. I'm gonna grab some superwinch hubs for use on mild wheeling, and on the street, and swap back to the flanges for the harder stuff. Both diffs will be welded, hence the need for the locking hubs in the front. Driveshafts will be toy, and with a CV in the rear. I have enough parts now to build spares for both the front and rear. I'll be using high angle flanges instead of yokes on the axle ends
One side effect of the dodge D60 is the fact its already fairly narrow (67.5 WMS), so I'm gonna skip the H2 idea, and just get 16 inch steelies with less backspacing and run the 38x14.5 toyos. I love the H2s, but I think it'll just be to narrow, and the steel wheels and 38s will cost the exact same as h2 wheels and 37s.
Next comes steering. I'm getting a steering arm for low crossover from krebs. I guess I'm gonna run TREs since they last longer. Anyone got a cheap source for weld in 7/8"-18 tpi tube adapters? Ballistic Fab has them for around 10 bucks a piece. Anyone know about what the max OD my tie rod can be before I have to worry about it hitting the diff cover in the stock position? And should I just weld some 1/4" strap onto the stock diff covers, or get something stronger? MAD4WD has a pretty good deal on rockcrusher covers going on right now. Around 60 bucks a piece for the ones I need
I'm also gonna run hydro assist. I'm gonna use this ram http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic , cut the crosstube off the cylinder end, weld a piece of threaded tube to it, and use a hiem on it. Total price for the ram, hose, fittings, hiem, threaded tube, and hardware will be about 130 bucks
For the supension, the front will be custom leaf spring packs based off my current rear springs, a custom drop hanger, and outboarded shackles. The rear is still not decided on. I wanted to run BBCS shocks, but they are currently back ordered, but polyperformance is running a special on fox shocks, so I may see if I can get them for a similar price
I'm also gonna skip the D300 idea and just run dual toy cases
finally, I think I conned the GF into sewing me the soft top idea I had. The material is sunbrella, and its pretty cheap. All I would need is to build a simple frame for it, add the snaps, then get her to sew it up for me. She likes to sew and crochet, and has a big sewing machine, so hopefully that will make it pretty easy. The only thing I still need to find is what the soft clear plastic they use on softops is made of. Anyone know? I'm guessing I'll find it at a boat shop.
As far as the diff cover goes I would look at the Great Lakes offroad covers. They are the ones you see on ebay with the front end loader sitting on them. I shopped around alot before I got my cover and there's was not the thickest or cheapest but it was the best combination of the two. It is 1/4" plate steel (not cast) with a 3/8" flange and was $110 shipped to my door. You should be able to clear a 1 1/2" tierod, maybe even 2" depending on the cover you get.
ruffstuffspecialties.com for diff covers. search for gravelmaker on pirate.