I didn't want to re-drill, the dodge rotors are a direct fit and same or greater "hat size"
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I didn't want to re-drill, the dodge rotors are a direct fit and same or greater "hat size"
What I was talking about it looks like if you trimmed a little off the bracket it would sit down on all of the way. the only downside is that you would be welding on the bearing end itself. That looks like the best solution to use the parts that you have.
That's what I did and it is off to paintQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Why not go all the way to the bearing ends with the truss? Clearance?
leaf springs, I originally was and make clearance holes for the u-bolts but one side was a little short from ruff stuff. It should hold up fine for now and I want to go with a new longer housing when I lengthen the TTBQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
You can't say it's off to paint if you didn't move it. The Dowling Fab paint booth is on the other side of the shop.
more parts, picked up the auburn limited slip for $275, if what I remember from my old race-car days holds true, it should work pretty good.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/IMAG1075.jpg
Status, will she make DSO?
The bronco will be there, the level of upgrades is uncertain. I've been gone but work starts tomorrow. I'm probably going to outsource gear installation due to time.
Tool box and sub bolted down. Still waiting on differentials
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/IMAG1092.jpg
**** it, I'm keeping this.
It's going to DD status while the dodge is down
First off:
I need two doors with manual windows in good shape, will pay.
96 style grille, hood and head lights
Also coil-overs and bypasses if anybody finds a good deal.
Yessssssssssssssss
Yessssss
I would go pick all of that stuff up at a pick n pull yard on a half off day
I'm going to DD this thing, so I better fawk with it first! Ah, to be young again. :flipoff2:
I'm trying :flippff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I'm trying :flippff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
Have you looked to see if you need a core support too or only the header panel?
Have notQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I have a hood and front bumper so far. I might have a header panel too.
Trying to figure out if I want glass fenders or not.
If the rust isn't too bad in the rear quarters, I'm thinking of ditching the long travel idea and going with more of a mid-travel.
If I can fit the 35's in the factory fenders without too much modification I'm thinking cut and turn beams with uniballs, extended radius arms, single swing steering, coil overs and bumps should be able to net 14-16 inches of travel with no more than 3 inches of lift. Then for the rear, improve the trussing of the 9 inch I have by going all the way to the ends with it and add deaver j40 springs with some extended shackles and bypasses poking into the cab. Hopefully I can net 14-16 inches of travel while keeping the ride height as low as possible.
If the rear quarters are too rusted I would really like to push the openings back an inch or two and stretch the wheel base, but I don't know if its worth it.
Then add a big-ass carbureted stroker motor,stripped interior and a kayak rack :flipoff2:
SweetQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
definitely not 91-93... more like 92-97...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJ96
And that's a "want to buy"
Bump
Brought this thing home Sunday. Pretty sweet rig. All I've had time to do was fix a broken window regulator, clean and grease the window tracks/sliders all around and drive around the farm a bit. This thing goes up hills in 2wd better than my truck does in 4wd.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...637844_HDR.jpg
No mods for a bit but here's some things I want to do:
Seats
Real cup holders
Remove lift brackets and do cut and turned beams and some other ttb tom foolery
Deaver coils up front
Deaver leafs in the rear
Traction bars
New shock towers and longer shocks
Bumpstops
Build front bumper
Fix all the electrical issues so everything works
Wheel the piss out of it.
Adding cup holders is smart, if your gonna do the ttb **** you might as well go drop it of in the scrap yard next to your last 2 rigs/projects
Is there a real reason besides the "you'll tear it apart and never get it back together" argument? In my eyes, the drop brackets for the lift kit add a ton of leverage and create stress in the frame causing cracking or tearing. When that time comes I would buy cut and turned beams and build radius arms. The other ttb tom foolery would be a d50 center shaft with an offset u joint, maybe an early diff case to get a bolt in passenger shaft, and some plating.
Glad this thing will get used, don't mess with the ttb until it breaks and you shouldn't need traction bars with deaver leafs.
Fix the small **** and have fun!
Also I forgot to tell you that I might have dropped the rear u joint cap in the dirt during installation and lost some needle bearings.
I think that putting that much money into ttb is stupid, I would much rather you copy what Tum Tum did with a super duty leaf spring axle. Think how much cut and turned arms are going to be, and you would be putting that in an axle that if you put a locker in you will just bust shafts. Don't believe me? Ask Tate, he'll for that matter ask Krebs about his 10 bolt in the blazer with 36's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Like Travis said there is nothing wrong with the setup now, keep an eye on the frame and have fun. If your worried about f'ing the frame there, plate the frame.
Tum Tum didn't put a super duty leaf sprung axle in his bronco.
I have bronco envy now........
Cut and turned beams aren't expensive unless you get them 4 1/2 inches over, plated, uniballs, and chromo shafts
Also needs a belt and maybe a tensioner. It sounds like tommys bronco on start up.
awe you and tum tum will have matching colored rigs... if they ever show up on the trail.
Shall we start making bets to when or if both of these rigs make it to the same run?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbent
I have October 2014.