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Who did the welding for you? Looks like it was done with a TIG? Do you know what type of rod they used to weld that? I have seen welding at work that is steel to cast is pinged forever to stress relieve the weld area but we use a stick welder. Just wandering
how much did that nuckle set you back... i might need to do that
I dont know about the welding.
I got it from ORU and it cost way too much.
Is that a complete new custom knuckle? Or some sort of modified stock?
i sent them my knuckle and it come back with the new arm bolted and welded to it. I am not sure if they reused the knuckle i sent them, or they kept it like a core
I got the steering mocked up jsut now. The steering wheel is straight in the 3rd picture. Shouldn't the pitman point more straight forward?
In the other pictures, I want to ream the stock pitman arm from the top(to fit the chevy tre) Question is, at full left turn, i am unsure if the chevy tre will hit the frame.
If anyone here has a Ford setup like this (Chadnutz?) Can you do me a favor and tell me how many turns of the steering wheel it takes to get to full left turn?
I am going to try to hit up Vilas tomorrow to see if they can ream everything for me. Should I take the Chevy tre specs(i have the numbers for the small/large parts of the taper) or would they rather have the actual tre that is going to mount into the taper?
no, it doesn't point strait forward. I just went outside and looked at the 350, and it looks just like yours
I took them the pitman arm and the TRE and told them to make them fit together, they did some type of "FM" process, then I picked it up later.
Chevy TRE's have a 1.5" per foot taper. Take the end to them anyway.
Did you ever get your rear disc breaks set up... if not can i borrow a bracket to make a copy of it
yeah, you can borrow the bracket, but i leave tomorrow for Pagosa, so give me a call if you need itQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
sweatness
you skiing? I'll be at Durango or Wolf Creek Saturday and Sunday.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Yeah i was at PS, Wolf Creek, from Friday-Friday, not much snow, but got 3 outta the 4 days skiiing was good.
The overpriced ORU knuckle with the crossover arm on it contacts the upper part of the axle C, thus the knuckle does not turn. I wouldn't mind this from a more moderatly priced part, but for the amount of $$, it needed to bolt on no modification required. I will have to grind about 1/8" out of the C and the arm. They are going to get a call tomorrow
pic is a little deceiving, there is no gap there
so Vilas reamed one knuckel from the top, and the other from the bottom. wow.
did it screw it up?
Does anyoen have teh proper reaming tool to do this? I need to taper a hole to fit a 1tin Chevy TRE. I asked all the other machine shops in town (cooks, bvd, accurate, chops)
I've got two but one is pretty messed up and the other has a spot where the reamer wore down from using it too fast.
are they usable enough for one hole? Is it best to use it in a drill press?
my new go go gadget. Edge Evolution :D ....
how much does it help?
shifts ALOT better. better throttle response. Just filled up with 93 so I get to try out the Level 3 now.
I havent seen them like that for the gas engines yet. Cool though
that reamer should be good enough for another hole or two, its really meant to be used by hand though, thats why its messed up guess i'm a little too impatient
Could I give it a shot? I am kinda at the end of the rope on this deal, so if I could use/borrow it, that would be great. When could I pick it up?
sure, someone is usually here after 6
I will try to stop buy this afternoon.. I think I know where you live
I still have your reamer. I can bring it by whenever.
Anyways, the 95 knuckle is not going to work....I am having the hole in the original 93axle knuckle welded up....welder said he would fill it ith brass, then drill out and ream again.
I had the Vilas fook up "fixed" I took it to a friends welding shop off Colson (gooseneck rd area) and he filled it in with brass and did all sorts of other crap. He said words like vermiculiite?? and other big scary welding terms. It was cooled down in something too. It was all over my head, but the guy is super cool and really knew his ****. He explained that this was probably not something you would want to do to your DD, but seemed confident that it would be safe for offroad duty.
After I drill it out and ream it, what brass is left will act as a sleeve.
hey have you messed with your disk brake setup yet. I was messing with mine the other day and the rotors didnt fit over the hubs. I got the same ones as you i think. let me know
no, i haven't
That scares me...Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
i think it should work well, you just would want to check and make sure it is not wallowing out the hole. He can always go to heims later on
It will be fine.
I will need to borrow that reamer again for a little bit if no one is using it
Steering 90% complete. 1.5" DOm 1/4 wall with Chevy 1 ton DREs. The Ford knuckles must be a little thicker than the Chevy's b/c I had to notch down the castle nuts slightly to get the cotter through.
I ended up not using the brass filled knuckle. Eric found a cracked 60 in Tomball that I got for $50 and used the knuckle off it. I now have a small collection of 60 knuckles and shafts in the shed, all balljoint if anyone needs one...
-one driver's side reamed for Chevy from top, slider caliper, brass filled
-one untouched pass side slider caliper
-one drivers side reamed for Chevy from bottom but for bolt on caliper
My problem now is I can not fully turn left because the DRE on the stock pitman(mounted on top) hits the frame. I ordered a drop pitman today and will ream it for the Chevy DRE from the topside and I should have no problems except that the draglink will not be perfectly parallel to the tie rod. No biggie.
Next will be the brakes. My stock rear shoes are toast, and I have all the parts for the disc brake conversion but from what I hear from Tate, its will not be as easy as I hoped.
My other BIG problem is the transfer case is pretty much up in the floor board. I can not figure out why unless the trans x-member was bent upward. Something happend at K-Rocks last year. All of the bolts that secure the x-member to the frame are like loose. I really don't know, something has to be in a bind. I can't change the trans mount b/c I can not jack up on the trans enough before it hits the floor. I guess the easy fix is a BL :D
Does anyone have a parts 4x4 Ford around? I think I might need that x-member.
O, and my F150 torque converter failed causing some tranny damage at 30k. It was assuredly my dumbass fault, but I dont think the programmer helped.
Ryan, check your box.
I would hook you up with mine off my old bronco but turns out I am not in the good ole US of A.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Prob easier to just make a new one. Mine is bent as well.
drag rod end?
oops, I meant drag link end. I think everyone calls them Chevy TREs, but I think they are actually used on the drag link of the old 1 ton ChevysQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
People call tie rod ends TRE's and drag link ends DLE's. If they have a long unthreaded area before the threads they are a DLE and if the threads go all the way up to the joint then they are a TRE. Alot of people run TRE's on their draglinks cause the unthreaded area on the DLE's has been known to bend but the DLE's have more range of motion so it just depends on what you need. I am running TRE's on the tie rod and DLE's on the draglink.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89