88-98 k1500?
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88-98 k1500?
I think I used an older model with a JD-5 brake system or something
Here is the ice chest mount and the wiring for David
David,
basically,
the driver side engine harness holds the headlights, turn signals, horn, rock light, line lock, reverse switch, and oil pressure sensor
The passenger side engine harness has that side's rock light, fan switch, temp sender, air compressor switch, fan power, and the front Hella lights
The rear driver side harness has the rear lights, fuel pump, fuel sender, rear rock lights, speakers, overhead light, VSS sender, radio, and radio antenna
You really need to see it to understand all of it...
more
the large cables on the frame are for the winch.
The major grounds go from the battery to the passenger side block (under oil pan) and then from the block to the passenger side frame under the engine mount.
Holy Crap - I just put this all in the wrong thread...
When you get a minute, can you school me on your steering setup? Only found one mention of it in here and no pictures, and pirate doesn't have much info that I've found, it's all hydro assist stuff.
It's just a full hydro system using a single ended ram. I did it the same way on Lynda's.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Step 1: Call PSC or whomever and tell them that you need everything for a full hydro set up - with X engine and X tires, trail use only.
Step 2: install all of the stuff they send:
- high flow pump
- resevoir
- ram with mounts, mount one side to the axle and the other to the tie-rod
- orbital valve. this is what your steering column goes into to tell the fluid which side of the ram to go to.
Step 3: run all of the hose, fill with synthetic fluid, and your on the road:gigem:
I figured you might have pieced something together. I'm looking at drilling out the stock pump and going with a surplus center ram and whoever has the orbital.
Thanks!
the more it's pieced together, the crappier it will workQuote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
See here for reference...Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Experience? What did the PSC set up run you? $1200 or so?
yes - but with TRE's, tube for the tie rod, and inserts for the TRE's. I got everything from them with one call...Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
So - I need a new winch, but I want to buy one that will work in a future tube chassis. I want a Warn to match the majority of other folks.
what should I get?
I was thinking about getting the XD9000i but I think that the integrated solinoids (and the winch itself) might be too big for a tube buggy.
I could get the M8000 (the same one that I have) but worried that it's too "old" for me...
Also thinking about the 9.0Rc because it already comes with synthetic rope. A little worried about the 50' cable though (but think that I could always use a strap when needed for the extra length)
9.0 RC would work good plus I think you can buy synthetic extension pieces to hook together.
also
this winch , warn 9.5xp is newer and would mount the same as the m8000
http://www.quadratec.com/products/92134_100_07.htm
i know Fredo would back me here....BLACK MOUNTAIN!!! :D
I have no recollection of what you speak of....bastard.
Rodney had one for a little bit - that thing was absolutly horrible:mad: I got frustrated every time that we had to use that thing - it sucked...Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfrawg
you can cut down a m8000 pretty easily to make a small buggy winch.
Well, you weren't actually supposed to use it - they're just for show.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
I put a new drive seat in for this trip - the old one's frame was broken byone repair... This one - straight from the junkyard is much cleaner too:D
I also fixed the exhaust (was hanging on the rear axle), welded up the cracked rear diff, replaced the brake line, replace the shock bushings that were ejected, and replace the two tires that were cut from the last trip.
I added another cup holder - impulse buy at Bass pro shops...
Sorry no pics but it's readdy to go!
where did you get shock bushings? 2 of mine ejected and its pretty annoying
my buddy Jeremy gave me like eight from 4-wheel parts for free... You want some, I've got some left?
don't worry about it, if I cant get it done by Thurdsay its not getting done until sometime next year
so I broke a rear R&P this time...
This is my history / progression with rear Toyota axles
1) ran toyota 4cyl case with 4:88's and Detroit - stripped R&P at twice
2) went back to 4:10 gears, 4cyl case with detroit - stripped R&P at least once
3) swapped to V6 case with 4:10's welded in 2002 when I built the Patrol. I think the welds broke once and I stripped the gears once. This lasted several years but in December last year and Febuary of this year I broke the welded spider gears in half (two trips in a row, unique break).
4) swapped back to a 4 cyl case - welded with 4:10's for the July trip to Clayton. It held up for that trip. Broke on this one.
Long story short - I'm having a hard time deciding what I should change to. My options are:
1) buy a NEW V6 third member with a detroit and heat treated gears. Might go to a lower 5:29 gear for a future upgrade to bigger tires. Cost ~$1200 for the rear, another ~$1200 for the front (chage gears and add Detroit)
2) Swap the rear axle to a Spider9. Cost ~$3400:eek: for the rear and still $1200 for the front. A big part of that expense is the True HI9 third member...
I've only put used parts in this thing for the past 6 years, spending this much money to fix it will be pretty rough (and not in my budget:))
My future goals are to run 42" tires and lighten the rig...
What to do, what to do:confused2
I'm leaning towards the Spider9 because I'll only have to build it once and won't ever have to worry about it again - even if I swap in a sweet V8 - just looking towards the future.
I'd man up and buy a 14 Bolt for $200. :flipoff2:
I wouldn't spend another dime on those axles though.
I wouldn't put a boat anchor 14 bolt in, a 9" would be plenty strong with weight reduction he has planned. I think I would probably rather have a strange or mw low pinion for strength instead of the hi 9, unless his rear driveline angles suck then it's ok.
I was kidding. I know Scott's not buying one anyway. I don't see an issue with them with disks, but whatever. Who cares about a little weight vs the extra cost. Not me, but that's fine. It's a lot of extra skrilla for those 9" axles though. Still a better option IMO than spending more on the Toy ones. Especially with dreams of 42s lurking already.
does the front hold up?
aren't fj80 rears a bigger R&P than v6? is that an option?
v6 third with GOOD gears. That's my vote but I am a Toyota purist.
EDIT - GOOD = Heated and Cryo'd gears.
I think the fj80 rear limit's u on gear or locker selection. a newer style tundra rear would be bad ass though as it's one beefy biatch.
The front holds up. I've only broken a stock short side inner (on Upper Heldorado in Moab) and the lincoln locker... After I broke the stock shaft I swapped to chromo inners and changed the FJ80 Birfields to 300M units:)Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I do believe that if I actually spend money on GOOD gears and a locker they will hold up, but I've repaired cracks in the housing two or three times - and a few of the stud holes (that hold the third member) are stripped out.
running a Ford 9 offers other advantages. I can carry one cheap spare third member for both rigs, very upgradeable, can weld anywhere for links.
Those True-HI9's have been holding up pretty good in competition in the past two years. There was one gear ratio that's not very strong and I think that those guys always heat treat the gears also. I know that Twisted Customs runs them for everything and they are still on top...
diamond housing + heat/cryo/300m gears + start building something new to put v8 and mogs in
edit: $850 housing, $250 for R&P + treatment
I'd just drop a lp 9" in. What would it cost for one with a detroit and 35 spline shafts? Cheap and easy to get replacement parts also.
How long do you have to wait for replacement majic voodooed V6 toy gears or hi9 gears if you break them?
The Toyota T-case has a pretty high rear output so the rear driveshaft angle sucks, and that helps break T-case output shafts.
a built Ford 9 lp is a good $1600+, the TrueHI9 is like $2200 - so it's $600 for extra driveshaft clearence.
http://www.truehi9.com/
they also have the MEGA9 that I just saw on their website:
http://www.truehi9.com/megahi9.html
cool stuff...
Make a rear out of this. :)
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/960712043.html
Quick change. Just what you need.
cheap problem solver
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/955734075.html
I thought they had discs
i thought disks were standard on alot of things now but they arent
what truck's are they not standard, not any of the big three.
chevy, they were for a while then they went back to drum