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i dont feel like looking back, im on dial-up... are you reverse shackled? if so, you'll definately need the longer slip. im getting a high angle cv shaft with 12" of slip for my front.
oh, wait, does you picture mean you already got one? you kinda left me hanging there at the end.
150 sounds reasonable according the prices ive gotten from dline shops before.
i agree that 150 isnt that bad...a driveshaft shop up in dallas quoted me 50 for building, 50 for balancing, and materials. and that tube is expensive.
if you're going southwest at all for the holidays, have Seguin Alternator and Drivetrain do it on your way home. i've had my driveshaft re-tubed twice by them (~$50 each time) and they shortened it w/ a different yoke when i put the D60 rear in (~$100). they'll usually do it while you wait. 830.372.5356
I think Driveshaft King here in Dallas charged Adam $100 to lengthen both his ranger driveshafts.
if you can wait til thanksgiving and know exactly what you need i can maybe hook you up there is this one guy that does it all at his house, but has all tolls to do it right. to get my rear shortended, and also a different slip yolk with 1350 u joint for my sterling it was only like 50 bucks total with the new joint.
ok cool ill wait till i can go to the seguin place or kevin if you say that guy does it good ill definatly try to get him to do it, the guy at BVD was a dick. thanks
hey does anybody know where you can get the leaf spring straps that hold the leaves together, do you buys those at auto parts stores or do you make them yourself?
I got some at autozone. They're two plates with a u-bolt to tighten them. I think they were $10 for 2. They can also be used to straighten out bent springs.
thanks man im gonna build me some new rear leafs this weekend so the back end of this thing might flex a little.
alright i have new little problem the pitman arm nut keeps loosening itself and when you turn the wheel real hard with a lot of force on it you can hear the steering popping. All i have to do is go under there and tighten it and then the steering is all smooth again, but then after a couple of days it loosens itself back off. All that is on there is a big nut and a lock washer. Is there some kind of special nut or lock nut you can get that wont keep backing itself off?
is the lock washer worn out?
welcome to the world of driving a modified vehicle every day :flipoff2:
If you have any more thread buy another nut and use both.
dont know if lock washer is worn out i just keep tightenin it never take it off to see if it is i guess i will try that and see, but the bad thing is i have to take the whole box off to get the nut off.
good God!
buy a locknut!
go to John Deere and get the metal kind, not the nylon-insert kind, and you'll be good to go.
Other option is to drill and wire your current one, but you're pretty lucky you haven't pulled a "Travis" yet running that setup!
talkin about drivin a modified vehicle every day... the thing was driving like hell there for a while the motor was missin real bad and no power, and the motor always sounded like it was gonna blow. I put a new fan clutch on there and it unleashed the power, i took off the old one and all the bearings fell out in my hand, it was tryin to turn that damn fan so much it was zappin the power. I found a new gas cap at the gas pump one day when i was fillin up and it looked new and fit and snapped real tight so i put it on there, the old one didnt even have a gasket in it any more, the thing purrs like a kitten now, oh and also put a new fuel filter on there, couldnt even blow through it, rust came out of it. amazing what a little maintenance will do. And for xmas i got all my electronic stolen out of it on xmas day, CB stereo and radar detector. Very happy xmas presents, got every thing replaced now and out of my own pocket, damn insurance wouldnt cover any of it even on my own driveway, thats it will post more later...
does it still look like this?:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...tid=4116&stc=1
just drill a hole in the bolt in line with one of the ears on that castellated nut and slip a cotter in it
no no no not that nut, the pitman arm nut the one that holds the arm to the box shaft, but yes it still does look like that.
my bad...
so is the arm actually sliding off the splines and getting loose, or is the nut just backing off? On mine the splines are veeerrrrry tight...you might have wasted the splines on the sector shaft and the pitman by letting it get loose. How are you torqueing it? Mine torques to like 100 ft-lb or something crazy like that. took a lot of heat and cheaterbar to get it loose
i redid the rear springs to make them flex a little better, they do flex better but not great, did a little small testing to see the flexage.
theres no way to get anything in there to torque it, so im just using a big cresent wrench and cheater pipe to tighten it, the splines look tight as can be i think it is just the nut backing off because by hand you cant ever move the arm itself the nut just backs off bout a quarter turn, im thinking vibrations or stress on the threads can be causing this, i was just wonderin if they had like a big lock nut for this...
is the shaft have a key way or flat side where the shaft has a chamfer? I've seen a few steering box's this way so you could use a keyed washer that was bent over to hold the nut...like on many axles w/ full flotors. the other way is to use to nuts and a thin washer between the two and to bend it over both to lock them in place.
i dont think there is enough threads to use two nuts, with just one nut theres only like three turns of threads left visible...i think i am gonna try using lock tite and see if that works, was gonna weld the nut to arm but then that would probably melt seals in the box, we'll see.
i'm pretty sure mine had a lockwasher.
there's a lot of metal for heat-sinking on that shaft and arm...I think a solid tack weld is a good idea
Stupid ricers. My lug nuts take more torque than your engine makes, or your steering box nut takes, or both compined.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Just put the new lock washer on it, most the time when I take em apart the lock washers are trash.
i agree with eric...you need one of those locknuts that looks as if o0ne end has been smashed together a little bit. it does not use a normal nut if thats what you have on there and on something like the steering box a lock washer by itself will not be enough either.
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
LMAO :laughing: :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
kopecki, you's a funny sumbeech.
have you guys really never heard that before?
Yea I've heard that Eric. But I put my personal spin on it.
And wolverton, there is no special nut needed. I've never removed one that had a lock nut, and the rebuild kits for my jeep and 94 f350 came with new lock washers.
I don't get out much...leave me alone :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
( . )( . )
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
still doesnt mean a lock nut wouldnt fix this problem.....
i bet the splines are trashed... they fit on there really damn tight and if it gets loose that easy it is probably the splines
went and put a new lock washer on there a minute ago adn it seemed to help for now, no more popping noises real smooth, the old washer was pretty much flat, i put a new grade 8 one on there, so we will see...if i have access to a welder any time soon though im gonna put a little tac weld on there for a little reassurance. Thanks guys for thoughts..
does anybody have a dana 44 carrier for 3.92 and up and possibly a set 4.56's for dana 44 that they would like to get rid of...i need it for the front end, gonna order shaft this week and gonna gear the front end myself, just wonderin if anyone might had any of this?
alrighty does anybody know anything about hydraulic clutches? easter weekend i pulled the tranny and put a new clutch and flywheel in it, got everything put back in it sunday night and went to back it out of garage and it had no pedal but about a inch off the floor. The only way to get it into gear was to pump the clutch vigorously for about thirty seconds and then it would drop into gear and then the clutch would let off right off the floor. I left it at home and drove 73 CJ5 back up here, dad was fed up and took it to local shop and told them to figure it out. I figured as well as them it had to be slave or master cylinder was out, they called today and replaced both and there is still no pedal. Does anyone have a clue as to what else it could be. I know the clutch was put in right that was the third time ive put a clutch in the thing, the clutch and flywheel were all the right parts, same part numbers and appeared identical? Any clues?
Also i had got my new tom woods drive shaft in and its too long. I must have measured wrong or something, its compressed all the way at ride height. Who knows. Gotta send it back.
sounds like you have air in the system, just like weak brakes
they say they bled it, and i bled it that night when i had no pedal but it didnt help and there wasnt any air bubbles.
on a toyody the clutch cylinders can be tough to bleed...best way is to gravity bleed it for a while, just leave the bleeder loose and keep topping off the reservoir for a half hour or so, then bleed it like normal a few times. Could the mc pushrod need adjustment? Maybe you had it adjusted all the way in? Good luck