Sold it for $1200 but thanks for playing.
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Sold it for $1200 but thanks for playing.
ahh, well don't you have another 6.2 laying around
Not that are in any better condition, but if I can develop a process for reversing the effects of rust I might be in business.
so what you gonna do?
switch to a big block, doesn't it fit right in?
Dang that thing is purdy!Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I will keep the current 6.2 until I find another one within my price range.
How could your other ones be in worse shape? Sounds to me like it's time for you to learn how to rebuild a motor.
so what would that be, free or have someone pay you to haul it off :flipoff2: jk maybe theres somthin at the lotQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
A piston costs about $35. A rod will cost about the same. A full gasket set is about $100. I'd bet the heads are in good-enough shape.
It's Pigpen, just replace the offending piston, and barring any futher internal destruction, call it good.
so is it time for this yet? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=454424
I like that guys boatsides, definitely need to do that. I'm thinking something like that, but not quite that aggressive.
Yes, do big boat sides like that, chop the top and rake the windshield back. Then narrow the front, drop that aluminum radiator down between the frame rails, and drop the front of the hood.
Boatsides would be pretty pimp
Anyone ever do some boatsides running from the bottom of the frame to the rocker panel, without cutting the rockers out? Like a mini boatside, with some sliders or steps welded onto the outside?
The other two 6.2s I have are stupid rusty on the outside, but decent looking on the inside. The biggest problem with them is that the exhaust manifold bolts are rusted solidly to the heads on 3 of the 4 heads I have. They are rusted so bad there is no trace of the bolt head and no way that I can see to get them off. If the heads on my truck are in decent shape, I could possibly use them, but I have no idea what the combustion chambers look like on them. There are a few other things that need to be done before I mess with the motor, but when the time comes I will probably just snag a piston from one of the other motors and stick it in there. I think I am going to boat side it first, then narrow the front and come up with some kind of tube protection. What size tube should I use for the boatsiding? I have some 2x2 1/4 wall square tube and 3x6 1/4 wall at my shop, the 2x2 seems a little small and the 3x6 a little big, but I dont want to buy any if I dont have to.
jew
still needs a turbo
chromoly :flipoff2:
FagQuote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco
The money can be better spent on other areas of the truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
Thats not a size you homo, and no. Again, the money can be better spent on other areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
new transmission
Just fawking with you.
Sounds like you need a wire wheel or air chisel, and your favorite rust eater/prevention what have you, for the rusted exhaust manifold bolts. Seriously though, use the square tube to do the boatside then wrap it in some sheetmetal. For the front I'd make it look nice and use something beside's square tubing, maybe some 2" .125 HREW.
I wasnt thinking about using the square tube for the front, just the boatsiding. The front is going to be done in either 1 1/2 or 2" tube.
Well I've been thinking about my radiator situation for when I taper the front. The stock 6.2 radiator is HUGE. It extends past the opening in the core support about 6" on the driver's side. This poses a problem, because of the way the radiator is mounted. Since its offset, I wouldnt be able to narrow both sides all the way into the body mount, and that would look stupid. Centering it would be a ***** because the little ears that hold the rubber bushings in place are offset, I could probably fab up some new ones without too much trouble though.
On other option that I considered was getting a custom 5 or 6 core radiator made that is narrower, so it will fit between th ebody mounts. Kopecki seems to think I should make it narrow enought to drop down between the frame rails so I can lower my hood and increase my visibility, but I think narrowing it that much will make it too small to adequetly cool the 6.2. I do however, want to lower the hood if at all possible, because I cant see **** over it on climbs and am afraid I am going to run over my spotter eventually, and good spotters are hard to replace.
I was brainstorming over potential ideas, then I remembered that on C/K series chevy trucks (88-99, the body style like my crewcab), their radiators are 2" shorter than the older boxy models like pigpen. Since when I narrow the front the fenders are going to have to be kludged to the core support anyway, I was thinking of taking a core support and radiator from a C/K truck and putting in on the front of pigpen, then cutting a couple of inches off the large lip on the front of my hood to lower it a total of 4" or so. I can probably make the fenders angle downward to match it and make it look decent. The later model core support will require some ethnic thinking and a little fabrication but shouldnt be too hard. I might even grab a later model grill to stick on there.
rear mounted radiator? Not like you have much back there anyway, and then you could put your winch where the radiator was and get a better approach angle.
I've thought about that, but it would be alot more work. It is still a consideration though. The way the winch is mounted now, it does not hurt my approach angle at all. It is 95% inside the stock frame and sits about 3/4" in front of the radiator.
summit aluminum
Is it really that hard to cool a 130 hp motor?
I dont know but I'm sure chevy put the biggest radiator they made in front of it for a reason.
because they expected you to be towing with it, perhaps?
the rule of thumb is one cube per cube of displacement so what im trying to say is that 6.2 is around 370-380 (im too lazy to do the math)cubic inches so you need a radiatior with the same dimentions. thats what they use in heavy truck so its should be the same. Its not the same with gas b/c diesel puts out more heat than gas.
6.2 is 379. So according to your rule of thumb the radiator GM uses in front of the 6.2 is approximately 32x18x2 which equals 1152 cubic inches. Something about that doesnt sound right to me.
Should be 1 square inch of radiator surface area for every one cubic inch of engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
then it still works out the same for his rad. unless you only count the front side
rear radiator, thus allowing a smaller one because extra length of hose that it would add would help cool it and you are adding extra coolant along with it
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Yeah, its not the total surface area, but rather the area that gets exposed to the airflow. The numbers are for the front only..
So then its the same for a brass 1 core that's 3/4" thick or a 4 core or an aluminum 2 core thats 4" thick.
Exactly, i had lunch on the mind at the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
if you wanted a big radiator for it I have a catapilar one i was thinking of using time back... it is just taking up space in my shop right now
radiator in the back, i garuntee it would be no larger a pain in the ass then having to remount the stock one or another custom unit. Plus it will cool better, i mean all it is some exhaust tubing or something of the like with a couple connectors and bends.
also some custom radiator, well maybe just the low end ones like summits, two row that has 1.5 inch wide rows or whatever i have dont come with any mounting brackets and are kinda pain to install.
you use exhaust tube for liquid? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler