lmao
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lmao
doublepost... :flipoff2:
"Thank you Captain Obvious!"
these are the pictures of a ground 205 shift rail. from what i understand, grinding it like this will keep you from engaging different ranges front and rear
http://jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php#26
4wheel and offroad says they're also available for the ford NP205. september issue. $90 ain't too bad. and you'll still have the originals if you don't like the setup. let me know if you do this. i'm kinda interested.
turns out there's a reason they tell you to not use jacks on uneven ground
pics
x's 393,129,124.2431Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Sounds like fun. I thought we already experienced this when the high-lift gave way that time? Guess you forgot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
You should have front wheel low with the detents in. You have to have the rear in neutral or low before shifting the front into low. And I don't think many people remove them anymore. I didn't in mine or Kurt's. All you gain by removing them is front wheel high.
grinding gets you front high in the 205... it is cool
Cook rolled up to my house today with a 35 on one side and a dryrotted 31 on the other cause he couldnt get the rear end jacked up high enough to put the 35 back on in his pebble driveway. :laughing:
De De De... :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
hmm, never tried it. as soon as i realized i left the detents in i automatically ruled it out.
it wasn't a 31 he had on it was a 29Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
got both mounts replaced, clutch linkage aligned and put back together
i dont think it is motor mounts causing the problem. Also when you do the shackle reversal and flip it sets the caster at the right angle, so no shims are neccessary. Check the driveshaft, and pinion very good for any distortions or egged out areas. this sounds more like the problem than, motor mounts.
Well when your truck is sitting the pinion is pointing up, above the centerline of the driveshaft. Its not severe but I have always heard that with just u-joints (as in no CV) you want the t-case output yoke and the pinion yoke parallel to each other, in which case you need to rotate your pinion way down. I always thought this was more of a vibration issue than u-joint life though.
sounds like bent leaf springs to me, Eric has had that problem
The leafs arent the problem, the shackle flip just rotated the pinion too far up.
well damn, I guess he need some shims
Get yourself some help with that transmission and t-case stuff. Sum*****es is heavy.
If ya can get a hold of a engine lift, put a chain around the transmission, and lift the transmission through the shifter hole if it has enough room, thats what i did in my jeep.
Get asshat to help you with the tranny, if it starts to fall over he'll catch it with his head! I think you poopoo'd the idea already but my hoist is still available.
hey what is asshat doing with his heep. oh and steel those tires from asshat he doesn't need them
Um yeah, thanks again for dropping your trans on my skull.... I could probably lend a hand sometime this weekend with your swap. Oh and my tires are the basis for my current and upcoming build progress...so :flipoff2:
anyone ever use BVD for getting a new drivesahft made?
not new, but i've had them lengthen one
they painted it blue
You could take them your old shaft and just have them shorten/lengthen/retube it, save some money that way. There's also a place right off of South College near Chicken Oil, they're pretty nice.
im changing the yokes from 1310 to 1330, so i might as well get a new one made
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
i had them put a new cv on mine and felt screwed when they finished. i didnt like the u-joints they put in there and they told me the ones on there were toasted, which i know wasnt true. also, the inner ball joint thing on the new cv does not have a grease zerk. i would get one from longview driveshaft and have it shipped. they built my first rear shaft and i really liked it. that was before they were really into the offroad industry. now they do shafts for Bluetorch (they're the best, just ask robbie) and Bent and Twisted Fab in Kansas.
they shortened my rear shaft after the 10.25 swap.. No complaints.
they shortened mine for cheap, decent people
what does that thin plate that goes between the bellhousing and block do? not sure if autos have it. i forgot to put it back in when stabbed the trans back in
it keeps mud and **** out of the clutch
the only vent in the bellhousing is up on top and close to the block and its small, not much can get in it except air and probably dust
Wtf do vents have to do with a plate that covers the bottom half of the clutch? If yours is like Chevies then yah thats the only conceivable reason for it to be there.
and jeeps
im not talking about the dustcover that covers the bottom half of the bellhousing. there is another plate that sandwitches between the bellhousing and block. it appears to have no obvious function
your clutch might not work without it since it does space the transmission back 1/16" or so.
I think I've seen some manufacturers refer to it as a spacer.
I usually get the pressure plate bolted on before I realize I forgot to install it, but I've never ran an engine without it.
put it back on and avoid destruction of your new setup, it is proly there for a reason.