Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Ya thats why i set up my own gears in my bronco and plan on doing fricks when he gets his axle cleaned up... :rolleyes:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Ya thats why i set up my own gears in my bronco and plan on doing fricks when he gets his axle cleaned up... :rolleyes:
don't forget that ranch jeep I have too... :flipoff2:
We heated it up pretty good - more just to burn off any inpregnated oil than anything. I am not sure what wire he had in that machine - but we didn't change to anything special. No post heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun
The pattern could be a little better - but by that time it was just fine and I risked more damage (to bearings and shims) by changing it than I wanted to take... If it was in the rear I might have taken the time for two more iterations.
alcohol was involved in that post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
what i meant to say, was i wouldnt post up my patterns unless i was asking for advice from people who i knew, knew wtf they were talking about. i did this on pirate when i set up gears and you get three diffent guys saying pinions too deep, add some shim, needs more RGS shim, all different crap that doesnt make sense. then you get the guy or two that you can tell by their username (tru-hi-nine, gearman, etc.) that they know what they are talking about. i have come to conclude that pattern reading is an art and you can not learn it from looking at pictures on the internet. what those guys were telling me was counter-intuitive to what i had read and seen pictures of.
still looking for an AL bellhousing. I used my cast iron one and mocked up the engine / tranny / t-case / body. Looks like there will be plenty of cutting of the body for the t-case.
Have not had much time to work on it - We had the Thanksgiving dinner at our home and my sisters (with her four hyper kids) stayed till Sunday...
This weeks plans are to get the engine and tranny mounts done - start on the skid plate.
I assume the one I gave you wouldn't work? I don't think the aluminum one's without the slave cylinder should be hard to find. You should mention that when you are asking for one.
I think I found one for $40 - I'll be picking it up this week
I plan on ordering a bunch of crap soon...
Is that a seatbelt holding the engine?
Looks badass, everyone should have a 5.3. (or two)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
of course! a la A Pick-up Parts
sweet! I like seeing a 5.3 in anything....even a jeep. (that might be the coors light talking) but regaurdless......get that thing going!
Looks pretty sweet.
What brake master cylinder do I need? I want a bolt in - what works?
I read about 1978 Ford big car - what else?
For 4 wheel discs, 1968 corvette.
i keep seeing late model dodge talked about but i dont know if thats just because its a 4 wheel disc master or if it bolts in.
That's for late model YJs and people that can figure out how to extend the plunger for their TJs.
whats a late model YJ? you mean like scott's?
are you planning on using the stock truck manifolds, scott?
Yeah, like Scott's. I forgot that he was using a YJ tub...
so the 78 Ford one?, the 68 vette one?, or the late model dodge one?
What's my best bet for bolting to a YJ tub and working good?
I am currently planing on using the stock manifolds but it's going to be really close for the exhaust to frame to tub clearence.
i hear ls1 f-body manifolds work better.
there not in my garage bolted to the engine...
touche'
Lookin' really good Scott. :gigem:
Back to this - which one is best?Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
manual or power
vacuum boosted brakes
im sure they will all work. the only thing you can do is to compare your caliper piston diameters with what the oem applications of those masters were. i know the new chevy calipers are dual piston, are dodge also? if so, then the master will be bigger and not give you as much pressure on a single piston.
with assist it's not nearly as important to match piston sized correctly as with manual u will probably notice little difference in any of those different apps. I'd probably run the one with the smallest bore to get max pressure possible with big tires you wouldn't notice if it is a little touchy. btw I have always found a good feeling brake pedal is more in the leverage delivered by pedal design than matching caliper piston to mc bore. I always seem to notice more difference in changing the pedal ratio.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Yea only bad thing is if they're matched too badly the pedal goes to the floor and you don't stop. I had that with the stock cj master cylinder, chevy d44hd, and single drum 60. Corvette master has a bigger bore and fixed it.
I had this problem on my bronco. I dont think my master was big enough for my dual piston brakes up front.
The best way would be to match the volume/displacement needed for your brakes and then set the pedal ratio to have the best brakes.
If it was me I would find the biggest bore master and just put in a good seat so you can push hard on the brakes.
FYI: My chevy 3/4 w/ 8600lb GVWR is 1 1/8" bore. Don't know if this is bigger than corvette or not?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
while this is true. also, keep in mind that piston size not only affects pressure but also travel. it may work fine with copious amounts of pressure but require a significant stroke. since he's looking for one that will bolt in, he's not gonna want to proportion the mechanical advanvanage of the pedal to alleviate this. being touchy probably wont be a problem, but brake modulation is handy on the trail.
can you tell ive been studying for the GRE?
the E350 seems pretty popular
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...1&d=1108488885
red x
no?Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
^ useless post, ban him moderators.
here you go jimmy.
thats a creative spelling for mercury grand marquis
how far is it gonna be from the floor to the bottom of the frame?
same as stock ~ 5"?Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02