i cut it with an angle grinder and 3 cutoff wheels but i did use a torch on the large stabalizer hole.
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i cut it with an angle grinder and 3 cutoff wheels but i did use a torch on the large stabalizer hole.
well i tried for a couple hours today to get all the bolts to line up, but with slight variations in measurments that i took when i built the torque arm bracket, things just wouldn't work. So i'm building a new crossmember, and i'll clock the x-case when i get the $$. I built the brackets today that bolt to the frame with 4 stock bolts on each side, the are made from 3 1/2" angle, and the crossmember portion will be from 1.5x1.5" box. the stock poly tranny mount will still be used.
i ordered some rubber bushings from advance that come in tomorrow, but i finished the crossmember today, heres some pics unpainted and unassembeled. Pics tomorrow of everything put together, the new crossmember is about 1/2" higher than stock.
a little more progres made.
rear springs are painted black, and with slipez anti-friction paint, new center pins, and new clamps, new poly bushings, new shackles.
and finally i got about 30 foot of DOM from clarke today, so the plan is to add door bars and tie the seats to the cage this weekend. And with the seats off the floor, i can clock the t-case with the jb conversions kit, finish modifying the crossmember and add a flat skid. With my t-case clocked i can then procede to see if the front driveshaft is going to work out and measure for a new cv rear to go SOA.
i got about halfway done with tieing the seats into the cage yesterday. update pic 1....
this is all finished, just need to remove, finish welding, and paint.
pic 2
pic 4
pic 5
looks good!
now start cutting that pretty floor up so you can clock the case and get back 4wd
nice job ryan
looks good
i finally fixed the rear arb, it wasn't fun i had to drill out the old brass bulkhead from the housing and chase the threads with a tap, and then put everything back together. But its done.
I also ordered jb conversions clocking kit on sunday, so pretty soon it will be comming in, then i'm going to clean up the 300 a little, clock it, cutting the floor and exhaust accordingly. Then patch the floor, and modify the crossmember a little more for some more clearance and get part of the exhaust re-done.
i got the jb conversions clocking kit in today it comes with new oil seal, shims, input shaft, bolts, studs, and clocking ring. Tomorrow i am going to modify the exhaust to clear the x-case, i'll show pics.
i worked and finished the exhaust today. Its supposed to be temporary untill i can get to dallas and get it professionally redone. But i tried to make it as clean as possible because you never know how long its going to be untill this gets professionally done. Take a look at the pics and you will see why i couldn't clock the x-case untill the exhaust was worked on.
heres pics of the modified exhaust. Again i don't think its to bad with what i had to work with.
why do you have to wait till you get it back to dallas to get the exhaust redone, there are shops here in town
i only trust one place when i comes to exhaust, there in wiley and the guy does exhaust work for collins bros, so he knows cjs and he can get everything as high as possible and do it right the first time.
Plenty of front driveshaft clearance? Mabey it is just the pictures. Looks like a fairly clean job considering though. :gigem:
There are no good exhaust shops in this area, just a lesser of evilsQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Ed, this is a multi step process in the world of daily driver
First is geting the dualish exhaust out of the way for the transfer case clocking
step 2 is getting exhaust redone
step 3 is measuring lowest thing hanging below the frame and building a skid plate around it
This I understand, just askin a question. Sheesh. :rolleyes:
:flipoff2: You know, I used to be a broke college student tryin to keep my pile of poo running also. Now I am just a broke working stiff w/ a bit more of disposable income tyrin to keep my pile of poo running. :D
clocked the case
-everything went smoothly with the new clocking ring, input shaft, bearings, blah blah blah.
I had to wait untill today to wrestle the case in to its place because i needed someones help. Its clocked about 22.5 degrees according to my estimates.
It now sits at about 19" off the ground. I had to shorten the rear d-shaft about 1.5". and the shifter still needs to be figured out. If i can't get the single shifter to work than i'll just twin stick it.
did you end up cutting a hole in the floor? if so lets see it
no i didn't have too, i did "clearance" it a little with a hammer, but after looking closer i really don't think that was even necessary.
heres the best before and after shot could manage.
your driveshaft looks likes its going to hit the crossmember
I know a great exhaust guy in Wylie if you are looking for someone. His name is Rich, Rich's Performance Muffler (RPM)
http://www.richs-performance-mufflers.com/
Fred's Car
http://www.richs-performance-mufflers.com/92%20RS.jpg
St. John's old Impala
http://www.richs-performance-muffler...wer%20Tour.jpg
There used to be a pic of my scout on his site competing in the burnout contest, but no burnout pics anymore. Anyway, he does badass work and will run the exhaust however you want it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
i think thsi is the same place flem was telling me to take it to. i was going to get the info from him later this week. thanks for the info.
this still gets my vote. flat plates even with the frame rail are way overrated, uniform clearance is where its at
Make it bolt on from the sides instead of the bottom and put another stiffener across the middle and that'll look a whole lot like mine. Bolted on from the side is easier to install and you can use thru bolts to make stripped holes a thing of the past. Of course you want to bolt it from the outside of the frame rails so it will still come out after you land on it a few times.
not really a fan of that idea. There are already holes in the frame for a crossmember/skidplate. rotating the transfercase so its mostly out of the way rather than completely flat keeps the floor happy, the front driveshaft angle safe, and no one seems to be 100% sure on the oiling issues on a daily driver that sees long durations of highway speeds.
If the skid plate isn't high enough, lift the entire vehicle more.
i figured out the shifter linkages, heres pics of the shift pin that i had to cut shorter and drill a hitch pin hole. Then the bent shifter handle.
finished.
why did you not want to twin stick it?
available cash, i'm going to spend about 200 this weekend alone in exhaust work. I'll do it when i have the available resources.
i picked up the jeep from rich's this morning I painted the exhaust and put new O2 sensors in. It costed me more than i would have liked but hey i think its pretty good over all, the only thing i might change in the future is the rear exit locating.I might make it go back to the way it was (between the tank and the spring). But i would need a shorter glass pack for that, the one now is 21" long which is way to long to exit the way i wanted, so we had to have it angled like in the pics. But if i get a 16" or 12" or anything shorter than i'll change it back.
if you tuck your tire does it hit it?
no the tire doesn't hit when i flex, but i think thats becasue i don't have much flex with the lift springs, the only problem i can see is when i go spring over the flatter spring may hit under compression. We will see.