Why don't u take it back to Firestone?
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Why don't u take it back to Firestone?
we are taking it to car doc today per request of tommy to get the tires balancedQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
Maybe you can talk firestone into doing it for free since they didnt do it right the first time.
Confused. If Firestone did the alignment, and you have an alignment problem, then why haven't you taken it back to them? Cardoc has an alignment rack as well. Have them check the alignment as well describing to them the problems you are having.
we dont know that the alignment is the problemQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
It sounds like you have a lot of people who don't know what they are doing, doing what they do best.
If is a brake problem alignment wont help. If the caster is not right alignment wont help. Get the caster issue fixed and then go from there. If the caster is wrong then its not going to drive right.
Attachment 19073
this is from the alignment firestone just did.
there was a problem before the lift, where there was no caster issue, so we dont see how it can just be the caster.
it's not the caster. Find some better tires. Then replace all control arm bushings and ball joints while inspecting bolt holes. Then make sure shocks and steering stabilizer are working properly. Then brakes and bearrings. Then inspect for bent axles. Then if it still wobbles realize it is a jeep and sucks, JK. :flipoff2:
Also I heard your trac bar bracket was drilled out with a step bit, if it's wallard (sp?) out you're ****ed.
Take a page from my book, yell at it, cuss it, convince yourself the loss you are about to take on selling it is no big deal, sell the damn thing and buy something else. :D
Borrow a set of tires that are known to be good.
We are running ryans 33s on the front. Didn't change anything. And his doesn't death wobbleQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
Front and back tires
Fixed it
Me, Evan and Ryan went over the whole thing and threw the puss at the trackbar bolt. That heim has less than 20 miles on it and it's already loose.
Rear track bar bolt was held on with 2 of the 3 bolts. So it was all over the road and we welded it on.
no more death wobble......it did conquer the hill that spooby broke on......after a running start:flipoff2:
I think the track bar bolt was the problem. The lower control arm bushings looked shot but I looked at the ones on my jeep (which has no dw) and they were equally sloppy.
Edit: this was a reply to Karl.......which he somehow posted after my reply to him?
Results?
Are there pics of this tj? I don't think I have ever seen it
Anyone heard reviews of the WarnVR winches? Thinking about a 10000Vr with the synthetic line and the price is right.
The base of the VR's is very similar to higher end warns, the electronics are Chinese made. Thats what i have been told.
Honestly I think its a 10x better winch than the ****tybuilt for the price
let me know how that works. been looking at them also.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Anyone know if jk springs fit on a tj?
I am 99% sure that they don't.
I'm no jeep expert, but I would think that the spring rates, lengths, and diameters would be different between the two models. Because there are so many different options between the two models, like engine size, 2 or 4 doors, and tow packages you may get more or less lift out of them, depending on which ones you use. Not saying it can't be done, it just might require more work and fabrication than you plan on doing.
It will definitely take more fabrication that it's worth hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by hudhawk
It will definitely take more fabrication that it's worth hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by hudhawk
VR10000 Warn - $579Quote:
Originally Posted by sasquatch
VR10000s Warn - $734 (the 's' model has synthetic rope and hawse fairlead)
Either sounds like a smoking deal.
WOuld be going in new bumper for my 04 F150. Wouldnt really be seeing serious use like my 9500Xp on the Bronco does, so I think I might do it.
That sounds like a sweet deal, i might have to look into one for the truck as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
I'd just stick with the proven m8000. That VR is advertised as "cheap". I try not to buy such things. Even Keystone is advertised for it's smoothness, cheap price is never mentioned.
m8000 is no better than a chinese winch. only buy a warn 8275 or higher part number
I haven't seen one stop working.
besides the relays quitting I have had the motor on mine smoking twice and it still pulls great, maybe not as strong as others but plenty strong for the jeep.
Does anyone have any experience bypassing a passlock security system? GM sucks.
You mean VATS you need a programmer or techII to do thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
yes, VATS/Passlock same thing. The programmers cost a ton... is there another solution? I have read that it's possible to reproduce the output signal on the theft deterrent module while bypassing the module altogether, but how would you do it if you had a programmer or tech II?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
A quick Google search yields that it is easily done with some resistors and a relay or twoQuote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
With a programmer you just go into the computer and disable it
What you're talking about involves fooling the VATS module into thinking that the proper input resistance is present. That is fine, except that it is the module itself which is faulty. I know there is a way to bypass the module and make it work.
edit: which programmer has the option to disable the VATS? From what I have read online, there is no option in the tech II to flat out disable it.
Here's info on disabling vats. This page is primarily about building the resistor to bypass vats. If you scroll to the bottom of the page he includes links to a build page for a signal generator to replace the module and a link to a place that sells a pre-built module.
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
thanks BDR. I found this http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1/VATSbox.jpg
I'll try to wire this together tomorrow and i'll post my results.
Ok, so we made the circuit in the diagram and there has been some progress, but we aren't quite where we want to be.
Before we made the circuit, the motor would not turn over at all. With the circuit wired into the VATS relay, it will crank and run, but it will immediately die within one or two cycles of the motor.
Thoughts?
edit: and I put a voltmeter up to the ECM output wire, and got the proper volt reading from it, so I know the ECM is not faulty. I'm going to double check my circuitry.
From my understanding, the VATS disables the fuel pump, not the starter, so you're initial no start problem must have been something else. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump will prime the system. Once you start and the VATS does not see the correct signal, it will not turn on the fuel pump for "run". That is the reason it runs for a second and dies...you're running on the initial prime. The computer is looking for a frequency, not a voltage, so you need to find a way to check the frequency of the signal your circuit puts out. Also, if you're seeing voltage, I'm thinking you've built it wrong:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1/passkey.htm
Quote:
Tis PASSkey II signal is a square-wave pulsed-ground.