When designing a cage, is a front hoop and rear hoop setup better or is 2 side hoops better? I'm trying to settle an argument.
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When designing a cage, is a front hoop and rear hoop setup better or is 2 side hoops better? I'm trying to settle an argument.
I'm gonna say front and rear because you are more likely to roll over sideways than endo or some ****.
Why does that matter?Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.ZAP
I don't have a definite answer but I would lean towards constructing a cage with "two side hoops" creating your a pillar.
I think the real answer is " its all relative to the overall design of the cage.
All depends on the potential loads. Most go b hoop and bent a-pillars to the b pillar. Others us a b hoop and halo with a pillar tie ins
I could draw something up, but I don't think it would help haha hard to explain.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
is that a monoblock amp? something about your setup doesnt look right.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I'm not sure what a monoblock amp is, but am guessing it's a non-stereo amp. I don't believe my amp is a monoblock as it has right and left outputs (2)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
a monoblock amp is an amp with only one set of outputs. if that is a 2 channel amp, you don't want to bridge it. Bridging it will present a 4 ohm load on the amp, and you will have about half the power as you would running it at two ohms. If the amp is two ohm stable, just run it red-red black-black, red-red black-black.
let's make this easier. what kind of amp are you using, i can draw you a sweet paint diagram :gigem:
Huh? So you are saying bridging the channels, thus reducing resistance will cut your power output? Go re read your physics book.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
Travis find out what the amp is stable at then wire you voice coils and amp to match. Wiring them in parallel will be have the ohms of one coil, in series will add the ohms together. Then run to the amp. Same thing goes for the amp outputs, bridged will reduce ohms at the amp. Too little resistance gives you a lot of bang but can over heat your amp.
Blue box = amp. Output on amp says 4ohm 2x300
Amp says 4ohm, so I guess just go with that? No idea what it would be stable at.
You can start there. 2 ohms is normal. If you burn it up get a new one.
What ohm rating are the coils on the subs?
2 ohm eachQuote:
Originally Posted by Seth
Run them in series and bridge at the amp.
ediit: Here is a better diagram.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...ch-low-imp.jpg
Like it says, make sure the amp can handle a two ohm load when bridged. Some 2 channel amps dont like 2 ohms in bridged mode. If you wire it up this way and the amp goes into protect, you'll have to wire it at 4 ohm bridged.
Why do that when can reduces the wire and keep from frying one coil.
People that do it your way don't understand wiring and audio ie the Community. And that's bad coming from me.
Clarke is correct. With two 2 ohm coils, you will want to run themin series and bridge the amp to the combined 4 ohm load. Alternatively, you could run them in 2 ohm stereo, just run a set of speaker wire to each coil. I would run it bridged personally.
This is just one sub correct?
I should take Fred's advice on this kind of thing :)
Will doQuote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Hot pocket, why would running 2ohms your way ne better?
Red to red black to black....done
For the record:
HP: the first way you described to wire it ("red-red, black black; red-red, black-black) is 2 ohm stereo, which is the same as 4 ohm bridged. With (2) 2 ohm voice coils, there is not really a way to wire it to a single 2 ohm nominal load. It is either 1 ohm (parallel) or 4 ohm (series) Chances are the amp that Travis has is not stable at 1 ohm bridged, so 2 ohm stereo/4 ohm bridged is probably his best bet.
Ryno, one minor thing: When you said, "Wiring them in parallel will be have the ohms of one coil, in series will add the ohms together" you were incorrect on the first part. Wiring them in parallel will show HALF the ohms of one coil. Also, I have no idea what this meant: "Why do that when can (?) reduces the wire and keep from frying one coil.
People that do it your way don't understand wiring and audio (?) ie the Community"
Anywho, just wanted to try and salvage a little accurate info out of this. So far as your last couple of posts, carry on. Though perhaps it would be better suited for the kitchen, or a boxing ring, or Glaucoma clinic.
Seems Travis got it squared away now anyway.
To set everything straight: as I originally drew I bridged the amp and ran the sub in series to get a 4 ohm load.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/IMAG0924.jpg
I could have went with the sub in parallel (1 ohm) but would more than likly blow the **** out of amp and had it sound like ****.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/IMAG0925.jpg
So these aux. fuel tanks that mount in the bed, typically under toolboxes....these jsut drain into the main tank via a T in the filler neck? Maybe I am not up on fluid dynamics, but wouldn't it over flow out the fill cap? Creighton?
there is a small ball valve in the T that prevents overfilling, plus the fill caps seal pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
I think it's illegal to have one gravity feed from the bed to the OEM tank. That's why you see so many with pump handles on top.
Only illegal on a gas motor. If it weren't legal you couldn't get installed by a dealer and nothern tool wouldn't sell them and the t fitting
The reason you see so many with pump handles is that people use these tanks to fill up their equipment.Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
OK. I'm just going on the experience of trying to help my brother find a place that would install a setup like that in a Dodge diesel about three years ago. Couldn't find a place that would do it without adding the caveat that it would have to be a cash deal and they wouldn't put their name on it. I'd check a TxDOT regulation book before doing that to a brand new truck is all I'm saying.
never had a problem getting someone to install one in Harlingen, Elliff Motors did the setup in my FIL truckQuote:
Originally Posted by bburris
Paris Chevrolet did the set up on our brand new ag truck in high school 4 years ago
Don't think the new fords like that. Think I heard they give some trouble because the gauge stays on full too long.
Yeah my truck get confused when the fuel gauge stays on full for 100 miles. It goes to empty but clears itself when you restart the truck
Any body know the differences between the NASCAR detroit lockers and a standard detroit locker, besides the NASCAR being for the bigger bearings?
I believe the nascar is a short track version of the detriot that was designed specifically to turn left. according to detroit's website it has some sort of preload built into it that the other lockers don'tQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
After looking a good bit of searching it seems that the nascar ones on ebay normally are not the short-course only turn left version and the only major difference is stiffer clutch springs. The stiffer springs just make the 'clunk' louder and engages more easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
IS a 30T d44 carrier the same front to back?
If I wanted a cj7 to lightly wheel and fart around the ranch in, what's the best model? What should I look for? Fair price?
304 is fun in them. For wheeling, try to stay away from the 3 speed, no crawl ratio. Some of the 70s models came with a heavy 4 speed, forget what it was, maybe T18, has the low gear. 80+ will all have the d300 case and a better gear ratio. 80-81 could come with an SR4 transmission, it is junk, most have been swapped out by now. The t4 and t5 are OK. T176 is good/strong but the ratio is not as good, still probably better off with it though. All the automatics were good, beware the one that came with quadratrac as quadratrac is junk.
Late 70s started to come with disc brakes which are nice, as well as power brakes. Not sure when steering went power.
You can still buy good ones for $6000 I think, will take a little searching.
for what you want to do, I think a 77-79 with the quadratrac would be ideal. its all wheel drive and the diffs are in the correct place.
and what the hell is wrong with this board? Why do I have to attempt to log in 3 times before it takes, try to reply a bunch of times, then go to compatability mode and have to attemp to log in a few more times, then watch it time out when I click reply unless I hit the advanced reply button? Its been this way for months.