Is that on your phone or computer? What browser? I've experienced the reply problem a couple of times on my phone, but it always works on the second try.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
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Is that on your phone or computer? What browser? I've experienced the reply problem a couple of times on my phone, but it always works on the second try.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
computer, ie
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Quadratracs aren't junk, but there is little to no availability of replacement parts for them unless you want to put in a Milemarker PT kit or disassemble 4 Quadratracs for parts to make a good one. So for plain and simple reliability and low maintenance I'd warn against the QT unless you planned on driving on icy roads a lot, which is where the QT shines. Which it sounds like you won't.
Plus an automatic CJ is just wrong.
Flem, it's not 1998 anymore. Ditch IE for anything else. Use an old sneaker for a browser if possible because even that's better than IE.
Clear the cache, common ie problem with more than just v bulletinQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
cleared every time I log in, workstation so no browser choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
its about as wrong as one with a factory hard top and car shaped doorsQuote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
I checked the vbull forums and didn't seem to find any solution other than what I posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
doesn't do it on any other forums
Anybody else have this problem?
Nope, works great for me on chrome
I've got a few glitches on IE.
I used ie today without any glitches
F' Quadratrac in the A' That thing is a pile of crap.
Roger that, thanks guys. This thing will definitely be a hunting rig so the simple the better. I'll keep my eye out for a 71-79.
Parts are easier to find for a 75-79 so I would stick to that window.
76 was the first year
Ive been scouring CL and jeep forums but every decent one I find is either a rust bucket or eleventy billion dollars.
There was a 3500 7 on CS CL last week in Bryan. Looked decent
79 bronco Dana 44 8 lug conversion. can I use 8 lug ttb stuff? I don't ever see solid axles at the picknpulls in SA but I never really walk through the Chevy section much.
No, 8 lug ttb is funnyQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/71...-lug-swap.html
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/arc.../t-191980.html
These say it would work but it looks like ball joint spacing differs. I was hoping it would work so I could use the 2 piston calipers but I guess single piston chevy stuff is fine.
8 lug chevy stuff. Take stub, knuckle and everything else out from there.
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by broncojo
F150
I do not drive it much, but when I do, I have noticed the steering has started to fade. Especially if it hasnt been driven in a couple of days, it is much harder to turn the wheel until it gets warmed up, but even then, it feels sketchy, like it doesn'twant to return to center after a turn. Driving down the road, it tracks straight and it seems to respond adequately.
I assume it is either the pump or the rack. I am leaning towards the pump but it is not whining like a typically pump going out would. Both are original with 225k rough miles. Whatcha think?
Got to start gettting this thing ready for Colorado trip in Sept. THinking 35s and gears.
Have you looked for leaks on the rack?
That sounds like what my white truck did, but the pump was making some funny gurgling sounds as well. The dealership ended up replacing the pump and rack under warranty.
Apartment life sucks. Haven't been able to check. I do not think it is though. Reservoir was on the MIN line, but not below. Wonder if the PS fluid is lifetime like the gear oil? ps fluid has nEver been changed
I'm a physics retard so someone help me out here. The calculator I found for moment of inertia for two different tubes gives .205 for 1 3/4" .120 wall tube and .295 for 1 5/8" .318 wall tube. Do you just figure the 1 5/8" is about 43% stronger than the 1 3/4" tube?
What are you needing it for
s&w cage vs. building one out of hrew.
S&w was 1 5/8 .120 when I bought mine. I don't think it's .318 wall
Edit: they offer .134 dom/hrew and 1 5/8 .083 4130cm
I'm with Ryan wondering about the .318 wall thickness.
But what are the units of moi? Iirc max stress and deflect will equal something like ( x * length ^ 2 ) / ( y * moi ). Therefore higher moi will have less deflection.
* sent from ****ty cell phone with even ****ty signal
I dunno where I got .318, Tommy was looking at them and I guess I thought I heard him say .318 wall.
This calculator says 1 5/8 inch tube has MOI of 0.176 and the 1 3/4 tube has a MOI of 0.205, so the 1 3/4 is ~15% stronger than the 1 5/8 tube. I have no idea about the units used, just what number the website tells me. Now that I have my **** straight, is a 15% strength difference that big of a deal on a full size slowmobile? I'm thinking the S&W cage would be easier to do even though you can get 10 sticks of HREW for the price it would be for the cage plus shipping. All you have to do is notch and weld the cage kit and maybe bend new down bars in the back.
Mine was 1 5/8 and prenotched, it went together in a day. The claw at Bryan iron couldn't crush it. Good test in my book
Bs, the operator just didnt want bend it.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
He was really more pissed because he couldn't get it in the scrap truck. Gave cook and I a good laugh
The rack is probably leakinghttp://img.tapatalk.com/42576579-a468-d3a2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
Or it's one of the ps lines that hook to it
Spray that **** clean then look for where is actually leaking them fix that
What colman said. Also, I don't buy into the whole lifetime diff fluid thing, especially if it's a limited slip differential, and I know power steering fluid breaks down over time. I'd clean it, find the leak, fix it and flush the fluid.