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Have not torn apart the carb yet and the line going to the car flows freely. I'm going to assume it's an issue with the carb just seemed funny that it only happens in first gear. Not sure how exact my fuel mix is, I just go buy the bottleQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluxe
Edit: Well weirdly enough, the light came back on today immediately after filling up at Sam's. I'm extremely confused.
Edit 2: So last night I pulled the fuel pump fuse for about 30 minutes to reset the PCM, to which it responded with throwing three more codes that also aren't for my Jeep until I cleared them and reset my speedo (I was going 0 mph everywhere). I'm hoping that the PCM was just being retarded and my next fillup will definitely be somewhere other than Sam's. The original code it was giving me was for bank 1 sensor 3, but I don't have but two sensors per side...
Any other ideas?
-6 or -8 AN fittings for the transmission cooler lines on my truck? Which would be better?
-8 would be better less restriction
Jic is cheaper and Napa has the fittings in stock. The only problem is rheyre not red and blue.
JIC is steel fittings right?
JIC and AN are not identical. There are minor differences in tolerances in the root the thread. For your application it won't matter AN or JIC.
Do you already have the cooler? if not it doesn't matter if the fitting are in stock or not order them when you order the cooler and they are probably cheaper than buying fittings from NAPA
It's not super high pressure either. You can just use barbs and hose clamps
Using the stock cooler, adding an inline filter on the cooler and doing new lines instead of trying to flare the stock steel lines. Absolutely not using hose barbs and bulk hose. My torque converter is trashed and when I put the new one in I don't want the clutch material to stay in the transmission.
http://www.dieselsite.com/1999-20037...tersystem.aspx you might have seen this but see if you can copy
Changing ball joints on a 2wd torsion arm truck (2006 duramax). . . .
Do I have to unload the torsion arm before seperating the knuckle from the control arms?
I am pretty sure they are preloaded, so yes.
Yes, IIRC. I just replaced my top ones. But I had replaced the keys before then, so maybe I'm confusing it. Should be easy to find the steps. IIRC, the lowers are a lot harder to change and you have to back off the torsion bars so that you can raise the upper to clear for ball-joint removal.
I am putting a 231 behind a th350 and need a 27 spline input. Anybody know if a 27 spline input from another case-205,208 etc will work? Trying to bypass the $200 input from advance.
I've got one I'd sell. From what I understand the inputs are interchangeable among the 231s. There are some varying lengths, but that may not matter depending on your adapter. Only significant problem I can think of is I do remember reading somewhere that some cases had a different gear tooth profile. If you want mine I'll let you compare it to yours before you pay for it.
This is an input from a 231 C: NewProcessGear 231 Chevy Input Shaft (27 Spline) (53 Tooth Gear) (4.675” Long) (Use with 351588C) (Good - Used
I wont have my case until next weekend. The input from Advance says to be 5 1/8" OAL.
This is what should be in the case, however doesn't give gear tooth count. NP 231, Input Shaft (21 Spline) (4 1/8") Jeep w/ .940" Wide Input Bearing (53006083)
BDR could you give me a length and gear tooth count on the one you have?
The input from a 241 will swap in an provide you a 27 spline input. You can also swap the entire planetary assembly and get 6 planets instead of 3.
So by doing that would the different input bearing size/width problem be solved?
The 231's and 241's I have taken apart all have the same input bearing, but yet it should be solved. I mated my 231 to a th350 with an advance adapters mounting plate and the input/planetary set out of a chevy np241 out of a suburban. No problems so far
Do people do anything special regarding airbags in a wheeling rig? I came down pretty hard a few times at trees and was thinking maybe I should disconnect them??? Is something common all the gay Jeepers do?
I never disconnected mine until I needed to steal the fuse for something else. The general consensus several years ago was that if you were to actually roll or come down hard enough to set them off you probably needed them. But if it makes you feel better you can just pull the fuses and disable them.
I disconnected my driver airbag when going full hydro. Just spun the wheel till the wire broke.
That's a good idea, almost as good as welding it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
27 splineQuote:
Originally Posted by texasxj
1.49 gear width
4.67 OAL
.629 (16 mm) bearing width
1.93 OD seal surface
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../WP_000279.jpg
BDR what is that out of? It seems right on the money except for overall length.
Creighton-by chance do you remember the overall length of the 241 input. I think right around the 5" mark is what I need.
I'm pretty sure it was out of a 241.
What's a good universal electric fuel pump for a carb? I have a Mr. Gasket or something like that on my truck and it won't pump ****.
Also, steel gas tank repair? Fill it with water and weld it? I have a couple of rusty pin holes that leak.
For the gas tank they sell a repair kit, I am not sure if it is worth it but for the 10 or so it cost I tried it for my fj40, I will know in a few weeks when i get back into the states how it is holding up with contact to gas.
Holley blue... But a working parts store pump will give you the same performance at 10% of the cost
JB Weld :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I have a 33gallon tank you can have that is just in my way. It has however been repaired once upon a time with the gas tank repair crap. Never had a problem with it after using it.
I've got a cj steel 15 gallon tank you can have. It is in perfect condition.
I just bought a new sending unit for this tank so I'm going to try and fix it. Thanks for the offers on the tanks though.
For the skid on my bumper for my white truck, I need to bend 1/4 " plate on a 7.825" radius. Any ideas on how to do this and make it look good?
When welding on tanks, I usually use a 1:1 simple green/water mixture to slosh around a few times in it, then stick an air hose or use the exhaust port on a shop vac to blow in it to help displace any vapors and dry it out.
If its just pin holes don't weld it. You will create a headache for yourself chasing blow outs. They make a 2 stage tank repair product the uses acid to prep the inside the tank and the another part that is like thinned Jb weld that you slosh around in the tank. It will fill all the holes and clear up the rust. I've used it on several tractor tanks. Ill find the name of it in the morning.
What about welding a piece of 16ga. around the entire area that's rusty? it would only be 2"x2" and then do the 2 part tank treatment on it.
Just try it and report back on how it worked
I like to cut the pin-holed part out and put the patch piece on the inside of the tank if it's that bad.
POR-15 has a Fuel Tank Sealer. Just don't get it on your hootus... Have a kit too.
I need to bend 1/4 aluminum plate for the skid plate on my bumper. I talked to custom fab and the only way they can bend plate is with a brake. I need it bent on a radius around the outside of the tubes that hang down. Any ideas? I guess I could probably try bolting the top down and bendind it around the bottom with a torch but I'm not sure how even I could make it with 1/4" plate. Ideas?