have them make several smaller brakes. or get a piece of pipe, a torch, hammer and some big c clamps.
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have them make several smaller brakes. or get a piece of pipe, a torch, hammer and some big c clamps.
take some scrap pieces of bent tube from the shop and tack them to the table. use the big c clamps to hold the top in place. Heat with torch and bend
I'm pretty sure that could be rolled, but don't know enough about that process to know how accurate the tangent edges can be placed.
1/4" aluminum is probably going to crack on a press brake.
The ends will be flat unless you cut the piece long and then trim it to size. If you take your time and know what you are doing with the roller the tangent edges can be place very precisely. Keyword: know what you are doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Any fab shops/ people suggestions? I don't mind having someone do it if I know it will come out nice
You would have to call around. If you did it out of 16ga or thinner any good HVAC / sheetmetal shop would be able to do it. If you want to stick with 1/4" it will probably have to be someone in houston that has a heavy roller setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
How wide and how many degrees?
make the piece larger than needed. find a random pole somewhere with the correct raduis and attach and bend. it may be anywere. nothing like fabing in the parking lot of a gas station next to their pump cause it has the correct radius haha
I have spray painted plenty of things, but always kinda guessed on the ingredients.
I need to paint my Jeep fenders. I just want to use spray cans, and do not want to mess with an air gun or anything. What type of primer? These are just bare steel now. How many coats of primer? Should I use a primer sealer after the primer? How many coats of paint?
Rustoleum has a self-etching primer for bare steel that I like, it comes in cans.
I would do one or two coats with 10-minutes or so between coats then come back with paint the next day.
Humidity and temperature are crucial with any paint, especially rattle cans.
I like Rust Tough paint on bare metal. I've used it on a lot of stuff and always been happy with the outcome.
What he said, using primer really does help the quality of rattle can paint. I always just buy the same brand primer as the final paint I am going to apply, I figure it must be compatable.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
If that is the new krylon paint, I like it. x2 on 2 coats of primer, then a few coats of paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Make sure you have a wind/ dust free environment, that's what made the gloss paint look flat on my bronco
Etching primer. Or some sort of DTM.
Got several of the parts primed with the Krylon Rust Tough stuff yesteday. I have used it before and have liked it. Sprays well and goes a long way. Did 2 even coats. Will try to paint today or this weekend.
Another big thing that you probably already know is to get spray paint with the "fan tip" instead of the old school round sprayer. Most of the cheaper brands still have the crappy round sprayer. The fan tip makes for a much smoother coat.
I think the "fan tip" is why I like it. sprays nice.
Need a new trac bar for my truck. Is 1.5"x.25" DOM and 7/8 heims good for an 8k truck?
why are you going way from bushings?
Probably because they only lasted like 280k miles. junk
Mine is too short and i don't want to buy a $300 super awesome billet one. I also thought heims would be more solid and offer some adjustability. I already have the DOM so getting some ruff stuff heims on sale would be easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Don't ask why I know or remember this but for my dodge:
The carli track bars are 1.5x.25 chromoly tubing tig'ed with 1 bushing and 1 7/8 rod end.
The Thuren track bars are 1.5x.375 regular dom mig welded with one bushing and one 7/8 rod end.
Being leaf sprung on the front end I doubt it will make much difference what you use but I don't know. Also you could save some money, Improve the ride and still have an adjustable trac bar if you use one rod end and one bushing.
Mine is noticeably worn out and the threads on the upper bolt are fubar'd and won't tighten. My axle is also pulled over to the drivers side pretty hard with the 2" leveling mini leaf packs on there.
Found this. Haven't seen these before but these are stupid cheap. I could have an adjustable track bar for 50 bucks. Travis, does yours make any noise with a heim on one end?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...d+End+Bearings
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I have a four-link with rod ends... It makes a lot of noise, but that is overcome with 5 inch exhaust :flipoff2:
I thought you had a parallel 4 link with panhard
Did I say differently?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I hear lots of noises when the suspension cycles, no way of knowing if it's the track bar (well actually my track bar is noticeably worn, but that doesn't count)
Can anyone tell from this picture if this is a d60 vs d44? Supposed to be from a 78 F350.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/13/game7a2y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/13/e4ydymam.jpg
Did F350s ever come with a d44?
Look to see if its ball joint or king-pin. If its king-pin its a d60. Or you could have the owner measure then diameter of the locking hub, if its 4 inches its a d60 if its less its a d44. To me it's looks like a d44, but that's a guess.
The general consensus is that to get a d60 in 78 it had to be a f-250 "snow fighter". And to get a d-60 in 1979 it had to be a f-350. However Ford did a lot of mismatch **** so you always need to check and FYI in all the pos fords I've seen over the years I have yet to find a 4-door that came with a d60 from the factory.
My 60 is out of a 4 door
I thought it looked a little small but I was hoping I would get lucky. He was asking $850 for the rolling chassis w/ drivetrain. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/13/danaqy3u.jpg
The search goes on. Thanks for the help.
From a 1978 or 1979?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
That's a very desirable d44, talk him down and it could still be a good deal. I've sold multiple of those d44's for $500.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
Mine is a 91' didn't notice the year range
Having trailer brake controller issues. Tekonsha brake controller. When the trailer is hooked up, the green light come on indicating it has a good circuit. When is squeeze the button it turns from green to orange to red but the trailer brakes don't come on. When testing the connector, I get about 5 volts to the brakes. ****ed with the power settings, no change.
Brakes should be getting 12v? Prob not enough power to activate them.
voltage should vary depending on how high you turn up the brake controller. At max power they should get 14v. It sounds like a ground problem to me. You could also have bad coils, you should be able to check them when an ohm meter.
I think I found the problem. What was with this guy using scotch locks for ****ing everything. Ed is better at wiring than this guy........:flipoff2:
Hey now! I'm a solderin' mofo nowadays !!! :flipoff3:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
The knob on the right side (looking at the controller) is the brake strength, rotate the knob clockwise will increase the strength. This should also increase the voltage, with it turned all the way up and the slider pushed over it should be full voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I think you know this, but the knob on the left is the level knob.