search here and on pirate for pics of people's inboarded hangers...it's not that big a deal
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search here and on pirate for pics of people's inboarded hangers...it's not that big a deal
Austin - It's a little easier to swap a Ford than a compact truck other than Toyota. You and I both know that so get off your high horse. :flipoff2:
Mud King - I ran into the same problem that you do. I had to move the hanger further forward because the frame was too narrow where I first mounted the shackles. I layed under the truck and stared at the whole picture for so many hours trying to figure out what I was going to do. In the end I took some 4*1/4 angle iron and welded a triangle on the inside for support. Then I welded that to the inside of the frame. Then I took the DOM from All Pro and welded that onto the bottom of the angle once the springs were in the right spot. At full flex the shackle points straight backward, but that hasn't caused any problems so far. After I graduate and get settled in plan to make my own frame to eliminate many of these problems.
I'll find some pictures...
I had to use duel cases because there was no way I was going to get a driveshaft to make the drop from the front output of the tcase to the yoke on the third member. The case is too close to the axle and it points a little up.
The shackle hanger in early stages.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=2076&stc=1
Moving the spring hanger forward.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=2570&stc=1
I will never understand why everyone finds the need to fully weld something up before they put the tires on and check it to make sure it works... I've got two words for you - Tack Welds! They work! :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
did you say that pic had the truck's weight on it??!!
too freaking tall!
I would lower it or build a really tough cage!
He can still lose 3" from the body lift.
ok im gonna take the body lift off because it is higher than wanted so when it is off the hood will sit about chest high, i think thats a lot better than it is now, havent had time to move the shackle mounts, went and measured a wagoneers mounts from front to back and my mounts are a good three inches to far forward so im gonna move them back three inches i think this will fix that problem. Now the next thing thats on my mind is how im gonna lift the rear to match the front, no one makes lift rear springs so i was wonderin if i could get them rearched and put like a four inch block in there to level it out. The back is a good five inches lower than front. But then im afraid that the driveshaft is gonna run out of slip, its a two piece design. Is it expensive to lengthen a drive shaft like 4 inches?
I suggest getting the same 44044's that you have in the front...it will give you a little more wheel base if you want and they are good springs. as for d-shafts being expensive...it is moer expensive to lengthen cause you cant cut and buttweld a extension(can for spares though). i would imagine that you can have one side of the driveshaft lengthen. i know a place in dallas that builds them for 50 plus parts and balances for 50.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
EDIT: dont go through all the trouble of modifing it like you are and put blocks in the rear. its a lot easier to redo the rear then it is the front.
the rear springs are 54 inches long flat length.
no...i think you're just dumb. we did nix's axle swap in less time than it took to do mine, given, the IFS was already removed, but thats the easy part. I actually think it took just as long to do the full width swap, but still over the course of a weekend. maybe if you kick that lame mule of yours to the curb and get yourself a high horse you'll finish in a timely manner from here on out. :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
now that further nutz bashing is done, back to the topic at hand. dont use blocks. i like steve's idea of you getting another set of 44044s. if thats not an option b.c. of price or whatever, find something you can get lift springs for that uses springs that are the same length from one end to the centerpin as yours. then all you have to do is move the rear hanger forward or backwards. we used 12" suburban front lift springs on nix's rear end and just had to move the shackle hanger forward ~6". also double check that they're the same width.
driveshaft king is in dallas and where we took nix's shafts. look 'em up in the phone book. relatively cheap and quick. the 3 times i've had my driveshafts worked on i've used seguin alternator and drivetrain. kinda a weird combination, but they're cheap and were close to where i was living.
F150 springs are 52-53". 4wd versions are 3" wide, 2wd versions are 2.5" wide. might be a start.
Now that I have this up here...
http://www.ultra150.com/images/150-99/ultra99-2.jpg
...my weekends are pretty much booked.
This is my high horse. :D
Too bad it doesn't come with one of these.
http://www.ultra150.com/images/150-99/ultra99-g.jpg
no dedication :cheers:
I did the same thing....tacked on the shackles....jumped in the driver seat and just my weight alone made the shackles go against the frame.....
1. prepare to move them numerous times
2. tack weld as said before (weld once!!!)
3. hate to be a armchair qb, but early in this thread, i suggested you use some stock waggys....cause due to the design of the frame of the s10s, a sas alone adds alot of height....i don't speak from experience, but just from what i've seen.....if you really had to have 'new' springs, you coulda just went with new waggys from jcwhitney.....i think you'll be battling the height from the springs, and the settling of them versus the shackle angle for a while....its not bad though...looks good. and i also said to keep it as low as possible because its gonna end up higher than you want it....i suggest you get rid of those silly 44044s and go with a stock waggy, fix your shackle hangers, take out the body lift, trim the fenders, and you'll still have plenty of room to run 35-37s.
i thinkif i had stock waggys they would bend up because 44044s now with all weight on them are pretty much flat, that front end must be pretty heavy, got everything hooked up like hubs and such and installed a XJ pitman arm due top the funky s10 pitman/tierod end arm. was gonna run 4 inch drop yj but a stock xj is the same and only cost 20 bucks. tomorrow night gonna move mounts back three inches, went and measured a waggy's mounts and mine are three inches to far forward. so gonna do that and hook up steering and hopefully have it drivin by saturday some time, then will level out rear end some how and try to have it completed by friday so can drive it to CS.