two questions, pollock doesnt your method leave you with a very thin botton of your diff? where as scot has that piece welded back in?
two scott, did you jsut drill out, then weld a washer into the cover for the bottom bolt hole? or what?
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two questions, pollock doesnt your method leave you with a very thin botton of your diff? where as scot has that piece welded back in?
two scott, did you jsut drill out, then weld a washer into the cover for the bottom bolt hole? or what?
I dont know about the D60 but when I shaved my 14 bolt I cut the 1/2" lip off the bottom with a sawzall and rounded it off with a grinder. It is perfectly smooth and round and there is still about 1/2" of material left. Scott, are you worried about the lip of that cover being pulled up? That heppened to mine. I planted the diff on a rock at Gilmer and it dented the bottom of the cover and when I backed off it peeled the lip up a little bit and now it wont seal. The dent isnt bad enough to touch the gear but the leak annoys the hell out of me. I'm going to get one of the great lakes offroad covers when I get around to it. 1/4" solid construction for $110 shipped. Cant beat that.
you got plenty of room in there for expansion and deflection? Maybe you should cut it even closer to control deflection :where's the lightbulb smilie:
i ordered fab fours 60 diff cover... whenever it gets here i am gonna shave my 60 some
Look closer at the pictures. The bottom two inches on the diff - along with the piece that wraps over the ring gear is 3/16" plate. I welded a piece of tube to the 3/16" plate that I used to thicken up the bottom of the cover for the extra bolt. I also added a 1/4" plate that I tapped for a 3/8" bolt to the diff.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
There should still be plenty of meat in Pollocks method
I'd say there's about as much left as with what scott did. Figure in 20 years or so I'll have to build the bottoms back up. Rocks tend to wear the steel.
Update:
very slow progress...
Frame is bare - all old brackets are ground smooth
axle is painted, need a locker and steering arms.
- I ran into a problem. Since I decided to go to 5:13 gears because of the rear axle I am buying, I need to buy a front locker. You see - I failed to realize that there is a carrier change after 4:10 gears and I didn't look into it until I was attempting to set up the gears...
So - what locker should I get for the front? The rear will be a detroit.
Problem II - The Chevy bearing hubs that I bought from the junkyard mount the rotor about 9/16" further outboard than the Dodge hubs. Are the Chevy rotors 9/16" thinner than my 2-3/4" thick Dodge rotors? Do I need Chevy caliper brackets too? that would suck...
I ordered a Stak 2 speed case, 5.4 gears, flange rear output, 1410 front yoke, e-brake, VSS sensor, and a 1410 front D60 yoke.
About the hubs and rotors, yes... I can't remember the exact difference, look in billavista's dana 60 article. The calipers are the same, but the rotors and backing plate differ I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
arb
What's the problem with the gears? Did you buy the wrong Detroit, or the wrong gears? I think you can use the Detroit for higher gear sets with a thick 5.13 ring gear, but it may be the other way around or something. Either way, you should be able to use any locker with whatever gears you bought.
I agree. I'm getting pretty sick of the front plowing that mine does. It's a ***** to drive on tight trails. For as little as I drive it, I'm not pissed enough to drop $3k replacing it all. But it gets old fast, weaving through the trees.
thats why i just use front wheel drive and use the cutting brakes on tight trails. welded does suck at some points but not on the price.......
I have a welded 4:10 carrier - I will order a detroit today...Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
Of course, Pirate's down right now...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I need to find some Chevy rotors and measure them - anyone? O-Reily has to order them...