The Barn Burner

Trans crossmember finished and in place. It's not the prettiest piece but clears everything and works. I made a hoop that drops down from the crossmember then around the front side of the case/yoke. It will tie into the rear t-case mount and be a base for the skid plate. I started on the t-case crossmember and mounts but didn't get a chance to finish it before coming back to c.s.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup182.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup190.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup189.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup194.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup196.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup199.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup195.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup202.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup200.jpg

Probably would've been a good idea to offset the drivetrain to the driver side about 2 inches so that the t-case could've been clocked up and the driveshasft would have more clearence.

I don't know if there is something stopping you from doing it, but I think that if you go back and shift everything over about 1.5~2 inches you will be happier in the long run.

Lynda's is moved over about 1.5 inch and it works out great with the offset Ford 9 - but hers is a driver side drop.

I believe that a smooth underside and high ground clearence are some of the most important things when it comes to making rock-crawling performance.

Otherwise - looks good, glad to see the progress and hope to see it on the trail soon.

i agree with scott. i didnt want to say anything b/c its too late to go back and redo all that work. i think you should look into stak's b box or whatever they call the one they designed to fit between early bronco framerails. see if they'll let you exchange it.

just c- notch the frame side ways!

I had given thought to moving the drivetrain over but there would be clearance issues with the steering shaft, d. side header, floor pan, firewall, driveshaft angles, etc, and in the end I don't think 2"s would be enough. I had even thought about building a new wider frame but I'm too far in this to go back.

Before I ordered my stak I was set on a b-box until the sales rep explained that they hang down just as much as a clocked a-box would and that I would be better off with the normal stak. I highly doubt they do scratch n dent returns... :D

The trans pan and oil pan hang flush with the frame. The bottom of the case is about an inch or so above the bottom of the rear pass spring mount. With my shorter wheelbase and current ride height I might be ok with the skidplate but maybe that's just wishful thinking.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CheapJeep

The trans pan and oil pan hang flush with the frame. The bottom of the case is about an inch or so above the bottom of the rear pass spring mount. With my shorter wheelbase and current ride height I might be ok with the skidplate but maybe that's just wishful thinking.

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yeah thought the same thing after seeing this pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Buildup165.jpg

that being said about the b box, just go with it. you can always use these parts in a new rig when you get out of school.

i would say mess with it, but you jeep looks so tall right now that I don't think that you should mess with it much,

Looking good. It would have been nice to have a flat plate for sure, but if you just can't do it you can't do it. You might check out Lynda's skidplate as an alternative. It angles down so that it acts as a ramp (forward backward, not side to side). You probably already thought of this, but angle it as much as possible so that if it's tight you can probably still slide. You may want to drop the ride height down in the future as you get into more extreme angles.

Keep the pics coming!

More recent pics I just uploaded. Progress has been slow but should start to pick up soon. Just have to find time to make it home on the weekends to work on it.

I have some more parts coming in this week from BTF. I picked up the tie rod kit with 3/4x5/8 heims from Ballistic Fab.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ngBreak215.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ngBreak211.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Break212-1.jpg

cage is looking mucho better. i dig it.

I was thinking it looked a little strange, but then I went and looked at what was there before. Much better.

bling bling on the beadlocks! that's going to be awesome.

whats the wheelbase?

good job robbie i also like the cage much more this time good work man.

yes the cage looks much better. good job