Yah you and JB's bumpers are prety much identical. I mean, they both have that horizontal bar across the bottom and...and...well they both have that bar...
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Yah you and JB's bumpers are prety much identical. I mean, they both have that horizontal bar across the bottom and...and...well they both have that bar...
they are made out of round toobing too! It's like myself is looking at myself in the mirror or something.
im going to venture a guess and say they are both welded together too?!?! Way to copy him JB!
If you really want a prerunner than build a prerunner. Don't drop tons of coin on something that you don't want as much just because we think making a prerunner is stupid.
Did you want a prerunner in general or specifically a Bronco prerunner?
(substitute Baja Class 3 for prerunner as needed)
This hobby is about enjoying things you like, not about impressing people with your rockwells and stinger bumpers. :flipoff2:
I quit
ok back up before you go cry in the corner like Karl, what exactly are you wanting to do with this thing, what is your future wheeling looking like, how much do you wanna spend, and how long do you plan on building this thing. Answer those ?'s then step back and look at the whole picture before you start throwing idea of rockwell and baja trucks out there. I think you goinbg to TTC gave you the wrong impression of what you are wanting, just slow your roll buddy, you got plenty of time
I wasn't serious about rockwells I was just wondering the price jump.
The baja truck would be awesome but impractical and expensive
I want a truck like John Browns to tell you the truth.
The realistic goals for my truck are
Engine:
-same motor as it is pretty new and pretty big
-tbi
-wire up e-fans better
Trans:
-fix the slip
-trans cooler
T-case
-new yokes for bigger u-joints
-fluid change
Rear End:
-sterling 1.25
-Gears (I don't know what yet)
-HD diff cover
-Detroit locker
-yoke protection
Front end:
-kp dana 60
-Gears
-HD diff cover
-Detroit locker
-hydro assist
Driveshafts:
-Custom from bvd
-1350 u-joints
Interior:
-re bed-lined
-Roll cage
-Custom dash with aftermarket guages (maybe a 12v guy panel)
-Heater
Exterior:
-exo in the front
-tube bed like my paint drawing
Tires
40-44"
That's what I plan on doing before I graduate. The things in bold I plan on doing before clayton.
I plan on working during the school year so I'll have some money. My parents are sending me back with money because they don't want me to have a job over here and I'll have $600 book money to play with.
I think you underestimate the cost and time of everything that is highlighted.
Unless they are sending you 2k a month, I don't see it happening.
If you want 40"s your going to need the axles and the hydro, and the gears, fixed tranny, and engine, etc. etc. etc.
Baby steps. Fix whats wrong with it first. Than start accumulating parts for the axles/axle swap. Than steering, tires, etc.
Just a reminder that most people in the club with rigs like that have graduated, or are 6th year seniors. :flipoff2:
Maybe it will happen if you want to graduate around 2020.
i had all that after 3 years, but i guess i am an exception in this club cause i am graduating in less than 5 years
you are talk 8-10g's worth of stuff there before clayton! If you had the money and skills to do it then go for it, but its gonna suck when you get a ways into a build and realize you cant afford to finish it, and then you cant wheek for 3yrs, ask me how i know. Fix what you got , you have a good platform that with some time and cheddar will get you were you wanna be, it just takes baby steps.
Hmm
I can get the e-fans and tbi done in a weekend if I have the parts, and I pay flem some to help with wiring
The driveshafts come with the 1 ton swap so that will all get done at once
The rollcage will take a week if i have the toob
Heater is just a wiring issue
I plan on being a ghost from the corps so most free time will be spent on the truck
dude you are really underestimating the amount of stuff required to wheel with tires that big. gearing and hydro are must-haves. You have a 60 and want to hang it under there that's cool, but stick 35s on it if you're not going to add a tcase/klune and hydro
At this point in your game, you are probably not looking to build a 'cruiser' type rig. I get that, you want to get out and do the big boy trails and have some fun. Hell, what trails have you seen? K2, Clayton, TTC? Of course you want to go big now. But going big now (one tons, 40s, tube) is very expensive. It has taken me maybe 7-8 years to go from basically what you have now, to what mine is now. I irrationally spend way to much money on it still to this day. If I had it, I could easily drop another $5k on driveshafts, t-case, rear bumper/winch, synthetic winch line, stereo, bling inner shafts, bling rear shafts.
You need to figure out first what your DD situation will be. If you are going to be DD'ing a stockish Jeep, and wheeling the Bronco, that is fine, but tracking down a trailer spot/truck everytime you want to go wheeling is a bitch. Is finding a decent used pickup for a DD out of the question? Borrowing a trailer is a little easier if you already have something to pull it with. If a truck DD is not going to happen, then you need to keep the Bronco rolling. Of course you would need to fix any of the ghettoness that prevents it from being a viable means of transportation. Maybe weld the rear, lockright the front, 37s?? Wheel it like that for a year or two? Build sliders/cage etc as you go, while still keeping a running rig on 4 tires ready to go. Seems like you could have alot of fun right now for just $1k. So you break a 44 shaft every so often, boohoo.
Its up to you. I personally enjoy the wheeling more than the wrenching. Not that I dislike the garage time, I just prefer getting out there more. Seems like right now, some minor changes to what you got, a plan to get a pickup as a DD, and your set.
On a side note, I do not get the whole parents not wanting you to have job thing. You are by no means the first person whose parents do not want them to work in college, but I just think that is dumb. I have had a job since I was maybe 13, and though some of them sucked, I always had my own beer money. Working part time at say O'Reillys shouldn't take away too much of that "study" time.
You should just build a rig for KOH :flipoff2:
sliders, skidplates, 1/4" driveshafts, and 31s :D
yeah motor/chassis/axles pick any 2 and maaaaaybe you could stay under $40k on those rigs
I guess I am a little ambitious. Nothing is really wrong/broken with it at the moment. Yes, you have to eat your spinach to use the brakes and it looks like arse but overall it has performed well for what it is. I did very well at k2 (meaning I didn't break anything) because I didn't do half of the trails. I would have done more trails if I had the axles to survive the 6.6 liters of fury, 35"s and lo range on sticky rock. According to fsb, 35"s are the max tires you can safely run on stock axles.
I want to step up to the big trails but i don't want to cut corners to get there. I also don't want to waste money on half ton bullshiat if i am eventually going to one tons. See my dillema?
So the solution is to save money and buy the axles, then build them to my standards before I put them in?
After your bollocking I have revised the list
Before Clayton:
-Roll Cage (I realize this might not be at the top of some people's list (sharpe) but i have seen how flimsy my roof is and it is a good investment)
-Tbi
-Weld 9"
-buy plenty of spare shafts (I have one complete set at the moment)
-fix heater
-correctly wire e-fans
-Factory trac-lock front?
Weld rear, leave front open. Everything else on that list sounds good.
slipping auto tranny, open diff, you'll be fine. And how do you know you're gonna break something until it happens once or twice? Especially if you have spares on hand? I wheeled 35s on a stock (open) toyody axle for a while without issue. The locker is what breaks axles
you should still sack up and don't be afraid to break something and get your hands dirty fixing it :p
Try a harder trail. Worst case you and your rig are a PITA for half a day. Everybody's been there.
been there already
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/7...lsize/sbd7.jpg
Took everyones winches and john brown's trailer to get me home. Then brian and andrew colman to help me fix it........and about $100 at ducky's carwash to clean my truck and johns trailer:rainbow:
stay out of the mud
Soggy Bottom is not a trail :flipoff2:
Yep, the smart way is to have the axles 100% ready to bolt in before you pull the stockers out. The only problem with this is having to repair the halfton stuff that you will break while wheeling and waiting on finishing up the onetons. The good thing though, is that the halfton shat will be much cheaper than repairing the oneton stuff that is not up to snuff of running big meats.
Stick with 40's, MAYBE 42's if you don't want to drop major coin on shafts.
On a serious note, this looks pretty sweet.
I agree