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I don't like how my truck can only go ~215 miles on a tank of gas. Since there's really not a way to dramatically increase the fuel efficiency of my engine, I'd like to increase the fuel capacity. I looked online and all I can find is 18 - 19 gallon tanks listed. Has anybody come across a way to increase the capacity to ~30 gallons short of adding the dual tanks that these trucks came factory with? I'd like to have this capacity without switching tanks if possible.
I'm confused, you want to increase the storage capacity but not by replace the existing tank and not by adding an auxiliary tank? How do you expect to do this then?
Transfer tank? Bronco tanks are over 30gallon.
That's what I want to do, replace the stock tank with a larger tank, not have a fuel cell in the bed of my truck or have to replace my bed to get dual tanks if at all possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
4x4 short bed comes with single tank, correct? I think thats the only config that does.
since you are running oversize tires, you prob wont use your stock spare tire carrier, so I would run a larger rear tank. Most aftermarket options are just larger saddle tanks that will prob interfere with your drivetrain.
Larger rear tanks came on broncos, but I seem to remember hearing they are not a direct swap out. aerotank and titan make oversize aftermarket stuff, and some one else I think i saw on one of the stacey bars shows.
yes pm meQuote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
i have a 33 gallon tank i dont need
From a bronco?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
yes
We have a few old exhaust systems with various size tube in the backyard that you can butcher for whatever.
Good news, my fuel mileage has skyrocketed since putting in Clarkes transmission and a new torque converter. It used to take me 1 1/4 tanks to get home and today it took me 3/4 of a tank to get home. I also drove with the windows up which I never do but I don't think that really helped too much.
I also took my truck in to get a recall taken care of. Apparently some part of the cruise control can make these trucks spontaneously catch on fire even when the key is off, so I figured it'd be good to get done. While there they were kind enough to do a "Multi Point Inspection" and I got a big packet about how every replacable part of my truck needs to be replaced and I need to spend more than I paid for the truck to do it. **** them.
ah, the exploder cruise control.
thats why they're called stealerships.
I wonder if they'll do one on my truck. That would be interesting ***Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Hey sparling can you measure your front driveshaft for me? I would like you to measure from the center of the u-joint at the front axle where it meets the front driveshaft to the center of the front tcase flange or yoke whatever option your tcase has. Clear as mud? Thanks in advance.
Here to here?
Yes sir thank you very much!! This helps out my homebrew doubler concept. I knew the e40d was a freakishly long trans.
I dont think you should worry to much about front driveshaft length. My front driveshaft is super long with the front stretched and a doubler
My truck isn't starting all the time, but after some persuasion with a hammer on the positive terminal it starts fine. The terminal is also corroding obscenely fast. Thoughts? There isn't any drain on the battery, and it'll start regardless of how long it sits as long as you play with the terminal a little.
tighten it...............:flipoff2:
Once a battery starts corroding on the terminals, it will never stop. Parts stores carry aerosol battery terminal cleaner that is worth the money, but a terminal cleaning brush from harbor freight works well too. I would get both and just keep an eye on it.
Hammer persuasion + battery terminal = leak ----> corrosion
Everybody knows you should only tap on a battery terminal with the backside of a crescent wrench.:D
It's nasty, but put a little grease on it once you clean it up. Has always worked well for me. Just how bad are the terminal ends? May be time to replace them.
yeah I would check your battery cables too, battery acid likes to work its way down the battery cables.
get the harbor freight battery brush and clean it then spray it with the stuff that stops battery corrosion
The terminals look fine, I cleaned them last week pretty well and tightened the piss out of them. I think it might be time for a new battery, the one in there shouldn't be used in anything with more than 4 cylinders. Anybody have objections to the big duralast gold batteries?Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Overpriced. Get a cheapo walmart one with a lifetime warranty. 90 bucks, no questions asked on returnsQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Which comes in handy because you'll typically end up returning those batteries once a year. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
I've always been told to avoid electrical items including batteries from Autozone like the plague. I don't remember having any personal experience with this, but I once helped someone install an Autozone heater core that exploded within a week.
I used to use the Walmart batteries because of the price and ease of warranty, but found myself replacing batteries about once a year. I have had good luck with Oreilly's and Napa batteries. I've got an Oreilly's battery in the XJ right now that regularly gets discharged to nil (Braden likes to play in the jeep and always does something like leave the lights on :) ) and it has been coming back just fine.
I bought a used battery from advance and it has lasted me a year so far. I paid $70 for it but it is the top of the line one that they sell. I have discharged it to nothing countless times and it keeps on ticking.
I just avoid Autozone like the plague in general. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
Had good luck with O'Reilly's batteries as well.
Would it be worth it for a DD/occasional light wheeler to do a D44 SAS? If tommy is going with tons or rocks, I can get his 44 from him and put it under this without too much work.
sure you can buy it from me. It has 4:10 gears so you might as well buy the 9" too:gigem:
Or I could just get the 44 and not the 9" and then put gears to match my 8.8 so I don't get worse gas mileage.
Not to mention that your 9" has no place for my speed sensor on it so I wouldn't have a working speedo since my tranny doesn't have a place for one either.
A 8.8 and TTB 44 will handle 33" tires all day long and 35's with some difficulties. How big do you want to go with this truck.
Myself personally, I would not do a SAS for a 44, I would only spend the cash to do a solid axle if it was a 60. atleast 1/3rd of the cost is putting the solid axle in a TTB truck.
I'm not going any bigger, just higher, about 2" higher than what it is right now. If the TTB can handle skinny 33s all day then there's no reason to SAS.
my ttb handled 37's for quite a while, it was the 8.8 i blew up
Clarke how much you want for that 4" lift kit with no springs? And is it possible to lengthen the radius arms or should I just throw the drop brackets on and forget about it?
I don't want to swap to any axle that would give me anything other than 5X5.5" bolt pattern. I spent too much damn time finding a single alloy wheel to match the three that my truck came with.
Edit: also looking into disk brake swap for the 8.8 if anybody knows a solid method. Apparently 05-06 Econolines and E-150's came with disk brake 8.8's with the 5X5.5" bolt pattern, but I doubt I'll find one of those for something I'd be willing to spend.
Also have plans to do the F-350 brake booster and master cylinder swap. My brakes suck huge donkey dick. Worse than those terrible looking front AK grips.
People have lengthened the radius arms, but for a truck that sees a fair amount of street use I would not trust them. I would put the drop down brackets on and call it a day.
my truck with 4.10s and 35s got 13 on the highway. 3.55s and 35s i got 15 once on 55-65 mph two lanes. The power with the 4.10s and less strain on trans were nice though. one thing that helped my mileage as much as anything was correcting the speedo so the truck's comp knew true sped.
I've got 3.55s for the front if you want/need them.
Not sure how 33s will be relative to 35s, but keep in mind that a gear swap doesnt hurt you mpg always.
pm me.
Anybody know anything about hydroboosted brakes? That seems like a solid way to get really strong brakes. Mine currently suck and I can't come close to locking up 33s. What I'm wondering is exactly where you tap into the steering pump for the brake booster. Would it be a good idea to go with new parts or can I just get me some pick n pull parts?