Well then I am running DLEs all around. It does look liek a weak link, but I shall find out.
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Well then I am running DLEs all around. It does look liek a weak link, but I shall find out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
thats a pretty good idea. i wonder why no one's ever thought of that?
Why are you running DLE's on the tierod? I've never seen anyone do that before, I doubt its any big deal though. On thing to note the that while TRE's and DLE's studs have the same taper (1.5" per foot I believe), the DLE's stud is larger in diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
I run the ones off the boomerang part of the chevy steering. I guess that is the Drag link ends? That is my problem now with finding steering arms that aren't junk. The avalanche arms I have were designed to run with those, and I don't think anyone makes arms for those now. I guess I will have to have some made?
id be willing to bet if you take a design to a machine shop its not that much to have them built. just take your avalanche arms in and see what they would charge you to copy them out of good material.
cut it with a bandsaw and I'll macheen it flat
I don't have any tapered reamers at work.
Which arms are you talking about? 44 arms? I'm starting to use the EDM more and I'm getting more comfortable. It cuts tapers, so no need for a ream.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
UPS delivered this today...TSM disc brake conversion. I am going to start on it this weekend. I am goign to try to make it to the meeting tomorrow with my automatic trans brake (read: go slow and throw it in park to stop)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
hows the surface finish on the cuts? pretty good i assume. did you get my PM?
bling
nice!!! U got brakes now!!!
Mmmmm, disc brakes good. I still have a little air in the system, but it stops very well.
I also cut off the tailpipe after pluging it up and kinking it almost closed at 47. I need to get a dump pipe welded on.
It was nose diving pretty bad under hard braking, so i got some new Ranchos warrantied at oriellys with a 3 yr receipt.
It still will not start at the key. It will start up just fine if I jumper the solenoid. I have replaced the solenoid and the ignition swith on the column, but it still will not start with the key. Any thoughts?
Forgot to mention. The TSM brackets are nice and everything turned out well, but I gotta say that the instructions sucked balls. For the lines, I used all the hard lines from a 99+ superduty and the 2 soft lines from the rear of 2 different superdutys, drivers side only. No leaks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
check the pieces in the column that actually make the truck start. i forget exactly what it is called, but when you turn the key, it pushes the piece down to make the truck start. i had this piece break on my truck and it was a pain in the ass to fix. cheap part , but it necessitated tearing the column apart to fix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
...which sucks
hmm. With the ignition switch removed I manually pressed it down and still nothing, so that leads me to think that it is not something 'before' the switch, but something between the switch and the solenoid. I forgot to mention that in the previous point.
Test light reveals no power to the solenoid via the little red wire.
so you know which part im refering to? mine was broken down in the column and you could still push it from the top side. i think if you tear the bottom of the column apart, you should just be able to push the rod and it will start.
And John, I havent forgotten about your strap. I got them apart and it is in my truck. I can leave it at the shop, or call me and I can bring it over.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
Maybe. When you turn the key, a rod moves downward along the column and 'engages' or presses the ignition swtich down.(sends power to the red wire that goes to the solenoid) I took the switch off and pressed it down with a screwdriver and it still would not start. Are we talking about the same thing?
yeah i am pretty sure we are. but just because you can move it at the ignition switch doesnt mean it isnt broken.
one question, you can actually start it with the solenoid or just turn it over? when you turn the key on, does everything turn on like normal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
no problem, maybe at the next meeting.
When I turn the key to the ON postion, I get all power. Fuel pump, radio, everything. When I try to make the motor run, nothing. Motor does not crank, nothing. I put a screwdriver to the solenoid and it starts up, I drive it around, no problem. But if I turn it off, then I have to pop the hood and ghetto-start it.
I dropped the column down to replace the switch and when I turn the key, the rod does move down like it is suppose to.
could your battery be a little weak? That could cause the circuit through the switch to the solenoid to cause just enough drop for it not to start. Make sure the switch is actually giving you voltage at the solenoid wire, if it is, wire in a relay so you get a good 40 amps to the solenoid. It's a good idea anyway
check continuity across the switch when you press it down.
hmmm...cant remember if mine did the same thing or didnt do anything at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
the solenoid would at least click if it was a low battery...if it was so low that it wouldnt do anything, then the electrical stuff wouldnt come on at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
yes, you just described the "clicky starter fix". my scout has this problem. im too lazy to fix it. has something to do with 33 yr old wiring.
holy crap you three guys made like ten posts in this thread while I was posting that. I'm getting rusty...
i must comment that i never thought of adding a relay in and supplying the solenoid directly from the battery. wouldnt take much wire on a ford since the solenoid is right next to the battery.
relays rock!
Thanks guys. Unfortunatly, I am pretty useless when it comes to electrical lingo and how it all works. I assume by continuity, you mean does the wire have the same voltage before the switch as it does after?
The battery is chinche, but has been good thus far. Like I said, it fires right up every time at the solenoid and all power works. I ran the radio for several hours the other day and it started right up (via screwdriver)
the starter solenoid is basically a relay. why would you wire a relay to power a relay? put a meter on the positive small terminal on the solenoid and have somebody crank it. if you get no voltage you have a wiring problem somewhere in the column or dash
john(brown) i think its actually called an actuator rod. pull one at work and then compare it to yours and where it should end. i have a feeling that you will have to pull the column apart anyway. one easy check would be to check the voltage at the column plug. if your not getting coltage there either then it has to be something within the column.
shorter wires...Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
by continuity he means is the wire continuous. you should have a continuity setting on your voltmeter. unplug the column harness and find which wire runs to the solenoid. then get a long wire and hook one end to the input of the starter solenoid. run the other into the cab so that you can easily hook up both ends to the voltmeter.
clear as mud?
continuity means you lose resistance when you turn the switch on, because turning the switch completes the circuit. Put your multimeter on ohms, like 10k or something, and it should say NC (no continuity) or 1 or a really high number when you measure across the switch with it off. With it on it should read a low number, when you touch the two voltmeter leads together it should read 0, or "no resistance"
You already said the test light doesn't show voltage at the wire going into the solenoid when you turn the switch, so now check if the switch is getting power. If it is, you probably got another bad switch.
edit: dam you wolverton
and robert you are using a relay to activate the solenoid because the solenoid needs more than the 2 or so amps that old corroded wiring and switch can give it, but the small relay can activate on those 2 amps and give the solenoid 40 amps
why wouldn't you just fix the old wiring/fire hazard so everything is kosher? are you sure the solenoid needs 40 amps to work? its just a little electromagnet in there
you decrease your fire hazard by lowering the load on the old wiring and switch. And it's cheaper than a Painless harness
screw painless, grab a spool of wire and twist yourself into weird positions running new wires. the relay idea would work just seems janky to me
gee sounds like fun...I'll take the relay :flipoff2: