high angle made my rear for just under 400 and thats with 1350 cv and heavy tubing
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high angle made my rear for just under 400 and thats with 1350 cv and heavy tubing
Go to a junk yard and find one that is too long, like one from a truck like yours of the long bed variety. Then have it cut down.
all mine is are bars with threaded ends, one side attaches to the frame the other to the U-bolt plate. They do limit the articulation some but not enough to make me want to take them off and deal with axle wrap.
i like these. can't you build a small shackle at the frame mount to get rid of the binding on up/down travel. it would let the axle wrap a little but not bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
dont get eric started
those will bend springs too because it puts the springs undercompression
Just build a normal traction bar setup...I see that setup pictured causing problems.
:haha:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
do a sam's offroad or whatever they call it style traction bar. Make me one too :D
thats BS, those are the same basic concept as mine and I've had no problem with springs bendingQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
whats the ideal angle for the rear shackles?
Depends on the arch of your springs. Idealy, the shackle would be maxed out before the spring begins to invert to prevent the spring from getting damaged.
huh?
my springs don't have much arch. they are probably worn out
just look at my rears, they are the completely wrong, the fronts are about the right angle
here are some pic of the current progress
more. tried to get some pictures of the pinion and rear shackle angles.
put a new coil on that thing. make it run much better more like fast yet smooth.
The coolant recovery tank is awesome :gigem:
any have some good tech for 9 inch disk brake conversions?
if you turn down the axle flange you can fit a front rotor over itQuote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
On 80's ford 9's I'm pretty sure you can use 8.8 parts and redrill the rotor. Ford might even make a rotor since there was a ford motorsport kit for this. I believe this is what Sunray does and what I plan on doing for my rear axle.
look for a lincoln with a rear 9in
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
I put on of these on my 68' worked pretty good, no e brake but the exploder and caddy e brake don't work that great anyway.
wonder why the generic kit is cheaper than the one built for a 9 inchQuote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
hmm, i don't see any reason why i couldn't buy some new generic chevy calipers and rotors with the right bolt pattern, then make a caliper bracket that bolts on the tube end.
Cadillac calipers worked good on Kurt's yj. John says z28 camaro calipers are the same type.
Hypothetically chevy stuff would work. 1/2 ton 2wd's and 4wd's used the same caliper so I'm sure the rotors are the same thickness, probably even diameter too. The only problem you might run into is the wheel mounting flange on the end of the 9" shaft, it might have some clearance issues with the inside of the rotor. But it might not, only one way to find out. They are both 5 on 5.5 right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
no they are different
explorers seem to work pretty good on my brothers yj. They are the same as Jeep disc brake rear calipers. Seperate drum inside the disc, not like the caddys.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
shiut
The bumper looks good, you even added tow points and a license plate light. :gigem: Could've grinded the mount down a bit to make it look nicer but then again no one will see it and you're too cheap to waste any disks on that. Did you just move the hangers down and weld them, and for what purpose? I would still run some hardware through the hangers to help brace them, or make a gussett, etc... to keep it from trying to rip off.
this from the guy with red spray pain on his seat covers because he didnt wanna tape stuff off , or take of the seat cover.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
he moved the hangers to help out the pinion angle, and it will flex better. put bolts through, haha, dont need them. That reminds me i need to put bolts in mine as well.
With a little bit of resolve the red overspray came right off...and that was because it's a pita to get to the seat mounts, but I did have the seats taped off, thanks. Not like you haven't had your own share of "enlightening experiences."Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
yea, i moved it forward and down to keep the same amount of lift and get a better shackle angle. the bumper is also going to be my air tank. its made out of 4x6x.25
replaced clutch
put in different transmission, trans mount, and tcase; put new seals in these
made adapter for transmission crossmember
shortened rear driveshaft
lengthened front driveshaft
replaced all u-joints in both driveshafts
installed electric fans, temp switch, and wiring
made overflow tank
replaced starter, solenoid and cables
replaced battery tray
replaced battery and cables
replaced valve cover seals
replaced coil
rewired distributor and coil harnesses
built bumper air tank and ran new hoses for oba
built sliders
moved rear hangers
stuff to finish before clayton:
front locker
build front 2" reciever
anti-wrap bar
new seats
tear down my spare axles so i have parts
anyone got any leads on a sterling with 3.55s thats in good shape??
bwahahaha.... :flipoff2: That was some extreme wheelin'
Nothing like fawking up ur rear end while trying to run over an old CD player at the end of Dexter street, that was some funny stuff :flipoff2:
How big was this CD player? Pics?
The CD player didnt do it, dumping the clutch did. I'm still curious about the black puff of smoke that came out though.
96' ranger tape deck, no pics, just funny as ****Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
yeah, I am sure there is one here in waco, I will look.
did 3/4 tons have the sterling?