are you having any cooling issues with that thing? esp with the exhaust wrapping around the oil pan?
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are you having any cooling issues with that thing? esp with the exhaust wrapping around the oil pan?
no, not at all, thats a pretty common set up
this thread is worthless w/out drunk pics of hensel :) The part of the story I don't believe is that something axle related from Busa was trashed ;) What is a bonch?
na, the axle from busa is fine, it just has a wierd ratio.. the red neck front is what is messed up... and ive already fixed lots of stuff on it already
i dont know if i should describe a bonch in this thread, its public
we think the rear is fine. easy to say, sight unseen :DQuote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
don't forget that the birfs were fine, we replaced axle seals and the rusted out top trunion bearings that nobody in America seems to know about, and once again Eric had to come over to save the day before 218 became a superfund site :D
and you would have to mix tater tots with the gear oil to get the exact smell...it was close to the same smell though...purely speculation though :laughing:
That exhaust isn't that close to the oil pan. I've seen much worse in factory applications. Hell, my camaro's exhaust is closer to the pan than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
That and with the air flowing across it, its not going to be a problem.
There are a few mini trucks around town. I say we just go swap 3rds. Tell them they'll get better gas mileage :gigem:
...yeah you're gonna want those 3.5whatevers in the front so they'll turn faster and pull you through...
damn, that carrier is fawked up. I've seen some carriers gouged by the pinion, but never that deep.
the funny part is I should have the other diff from the truck that your new 4.10 diff came from, but I can't seem to figure out where it went. At this point I figure its either in my private scrapyard (the bottomless pit), or I sold it (to nutz, busa, ugly, etc?) a couple of years back
well if any of you toyota kids have one or know where to find one at a good price let me know so i can buy it
One of my buddies down here has a set of Toyota 4.10s from his IFS truck if that will work for you.
so who wants to buy it? ill get the 4.10s new front drive shaft, make sure shake is gone, put on anti wrap bar, paint it, recarpet interior.
has brand new motor 355 with all the goodies... ill even put on all my tbi
350/205
auto meter guages
took box
all the stuff for a tire carrier w/spindle and hub and mount
stuff that is sitting in a box.
all new brakes... fj 80 stuff.
stereo
etc.
5k
ebay?
why you sellin it, you just built it
cause im getting old and want a new truck... i already have a play toy.. i dont need two of them
i bet when you paint it and do all the stuff you have listed. you'll wanna keep it. just put ac in it and keep it for a while
hahaha, coop's old :flipoff2:
It sure is nice to drive a dd that is built for the road though.
And one that can pull a jeep.
forgot to put up that last week when i was in town i dropped in the 4.10s in the rear
... wow that things moves now.
need: anti-wrap bar and get adapter to hook up rear breaks and crossover steering... steering is fine but i hate that push pull bull****
When are you going to be back in town? Maybe we could fab some traction bars this week?
anyone have and HEI i can borrow for a day or so or maybe buy if needed... need to do an experiment with the truck.
talked to a couple people about it, like fred.
but the truck has this shake right at 2000 rpms and then goes away.. probably is it cruises right about there or right above it so driving around town gets annoying.
i ran the valves, replaced harmonic balancer, new wires, and timed it.
to me it seems like timing, but maybe its the distributor that is ****ed up, i changed the cap, rotor, and vacuum advance.... but nothing else.
distributor is the only thing not new on the motor and no idea if somehting was ****ed up with it or not, the vacuum advanced was ****ed so maybe something else is too.
and there is also the debate about the harmonic balancer alignment... i need to go to advanced and pull one off the shelf to check another one to make sure vatozone down south didnt sell me a bad balancer.
anyways ya.... distributor or any thoughts
Charlie truck or jeep? If Charlie, need in cap coil?
charlie
thats what im thinking it might need, running out of ideas
Is the distributor gear in good shape? Check the timing it is moving all over the place might be giving you a bad reading?
Are you getting preignition at 2000 rpm? I would try adjusting timing or a tank of 93 octane.
Does your flywheel and balancer match? I know fords have counterbalance but I dont think chevy does that stuff. That can cause vibrations.
Your driveshalft could be outta balance too? Bad u-joint?
It could be a ton of things
I have one or 2. Not here of course.
the timing does move around a bit, like it kinda jumps if you throttle down on it. (like this summer when i did it it would jump to like 65 degrees)Quote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
it starts shaking right before 2000 rpms and quits right after
what is a good degree to time to for optimal ?
i always run 93 in my vehicles
no flywheel... its automatic... but im concerned abou the balancer its self still... its new but i think its not right... but i dont know
bad balancer? it was used... came from BDR
and it does this in park... no u-joint
Well the balancer would be from a 305 then yes? That the same as a 350? By balancer you mean the harmonic balancer on the front or the flex plate on the back?
i have a 350... but yes the balancer is the same ( at least thats what i saw on the computer at vatozone ) and i mean the harmonic balancer on the front of the motor
the reason i say i am sceptical is because the key way does dont line up with the timing line... but it was brand new.. i was told by half that it is that way and half that it should be lined up
if its doing this in park I'd check the balancer
stupid things to check...
firing order
vacuum advance port. some advance with vacuum, others retard w/ vacuum. might want to hook it up to a sweedish made penis enlarger and see which way it moves then hook it up to a vacuum port pre or post throttle, depending on what you find.
carb dumping enough fuel?
Is the balancer from BDR's old 307?
firing order if fine... the truck runs great, it just has that shake at low rpmsQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
it has a new vacuum advance...and its the type you have to suck on
so maybe change the hose on the front of the carb?
and i was thinking that maybe it had something to do with the fuel pump... i was thinking about putting a small electric one on like on my jeep.
and by balancer if you mean torque converter yes its off BDRs TH350.
i bought the tranny and tcase from BDR
the motor is all new including the harmonic balancer
by balancer I meant harmonic balancer
If it runs great but shakes even under no load while in park in the driveway..... I'd be worried
If the distributor doesn't fix it, plastigauge time
what do you mean "worried"??????Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
yes in the drive way in park, it shakes pretty bad at 2 grand
whats a plastigauge?
so should i do everything to the distributor first?
like check coil, vacuum and time it again or replace entire distributor
I guess I'd check vacuum setup out, then make sure its time correctly.
See if it still does it with the vacuum line plugged, and make sure you are setting the timing with it disconnected.
plastigauge is the strips you use to measure bearing clearances
is this a new engine or rebuilt? where did it come from?
The harmonic balancers from 350s and 305 are different. Change that first. I have a coil in cap distributor back home if you arent in a hurry. Didnt I give you a distributor with the motor? It should have been a coil in cap HEI one.
the blancer is from a 350... at least that is what i asked for and told them like 5 times its a 350 not a 305 and thats what it said on the box... so it should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
yes the distributor is from you, it is a in cap coil, i changed the vacuum advance on it cause it wansnt working, and the cap and rotor on it cause they were rusted like a mother ( actually dist. only thing i didnt buy new for the truck )
the engine is rebuilt... i bought the short block from the man above and i put the oil pump, lifters, new heads, intake, carb, water pump, blancer, etc etc etc all togetherQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
the distributor was the only thing used and questionable.
the motor was rebuilt and still in the plastic covering
scoggins dickey kit
4 bolt main
bored .30 over
aluminum flat top pistons
300 horse cam
steel crank -- i think
and its new lifter and new heads
so.....
It has a factory crank. That distributor ran good before the other motor blew up.
Maybe you have a spark plug wire with to much resistance?
brand new MSD wires put on last week... and i checked the resistance of the old wires and they were fine
Did the cam get broke in right. Maybe you did not get the right wear pattern on the lifter and cam and it chewed up a lobe?
Is this problem getting worse or just staying the same?