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So after blowing a rear yoke in Alto, I decided something needs to change with the rear suspension. The 6" blocks are obviously causing a lot of axle wrap, so those need to go. I decide on a shackle flip using F-250 front spring hangers. This is a pretty well documented swap, but here are some pictures...
First step, remove the old hangers...
Here you can see how much beefier the F-250 hangers are compared to the stock F-150/Bronco hangers. They are thicker and hang lower.
Doing a shackle flip like this will move the axle about 1.5" forward. I made some "zero rate" springs/shims like Off Road Design has. I made them out of 3/4" plate and incorporated the spring pin into them. They move the axle back 1".
I put the hangers on, welded them and bolted them up, for extra strength. When I lowered the truck the shackle was not at the correct angle, so I unbolted and cut the damn things back off. I had to move them, but got it right. I also added a piece of angle just to beef them up even more.
I am also building a new driveshaft as I have thrown that rear one out like 3 times, and it is pretty used.
Should be ready for the Creek this weekend. Before Clayton I am going to add an antri-wrap bar and hopefully some tube!
waaaaaaiiiitttt....spring creek is this weekend? Hmmmm....
List of things to do for Clayton (in order of importance):
*Pack cooler
*Replace Power Steering Pump and hoses (pull and warranty the pump at O'reilly's)
*Make new rear driveshaft (have all the parts, just need to do it)
*Fab and install an anti-wrap bar for the rear axle (Have all the parts just need to do it)
*Mount and wire 8274 on front
*Tube work, simple roll bars for now
*Begin the body clearancing
*Make sure cooler has enough ice...
Pulled the power steering pump off, it was fooked! Also managed to break the pulley in the process...
Went to Ho'Reilly's, the pump is under warranty, I got new hoses, a belt, and pulley.
Also figured out the zero oil pressure issue, the sender became un-plugged, cleaned the connections and now we have pressure :gigem:
A while ago I had Jimmy pick me up a pro tools bender in Dallas. I ordered the copperhead fab kit and Jones and I put it together.
Yesterday Jones and I started building a Klogger Kage. Knoeller stopped by to assist. Here are some pics. We got the rear "C" tube done. We also got the "B" hoop done. All of the hoops go through the body and tie directly to the frame.
The front, I bent 2 pieces that run from front to back, rather than the traditional hoop. I will put a top bar and dash bar in between them. I don't think this makes a difference in the strength. I could have kicked the bottom of this forward more, but then when I turned it into the frame it would have been right at the radius arm mount, and it does not interfere with the foot room too much. Obviously I still need to notch this and fit it up.
And for all of you jack asses out there, I am going to add more gussets and triangulation :flipoff2:
thanks for ruining our fun
looks good Karl!
Nice!
maybe you can get some ideas from this cage
http://fusionmoto.blogspot.com/2009/...per-rover.html
Got it welded out and the connectors through the back half of the cage. I am going to put some pipe foam on it temporary for Clayton. I still need to gusset and put a few cross bars (like the one in the front)
Xtreme!
:)
Yeah, I wore my hat backwards while I did it!Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
So Spring Creek + loose wheel bearings = bad spindle
The hub and everything was packed with a mud grease combo, it is awesome! Luckily Kevin had an extra spindle, so some new bearings, a little cleaning and it will be good to go.
GOODBYE ENGINE STUTTER!
hopefully.....
Thank god, maybe now the klogger won't be a boat anchor everyone has to drag around every trail.:flipoff2:
so what does that make the sloth?:flipoff2:
special in a short bus kinda way
Read the title of this thread. He will be doing the same thing, just be able to make more noise and sound cooler doing it. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
You going for Kolosal Kubes Karl, or staying with Kiddie Kubes w/ some Krosby Kustomization?
A boat anchor that i don't bring to the trails:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
49 more cubic inches, 80 more foot lbs of torque, double the first gear, plus an extra pedal in the floor board....Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
On the one trip you went on when the klogger was there, the klogger had to be pulled out of one trail and that was more due to running out of gas.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
PS, my wheel has never fallen off.
this won't cut into the chilled refreshment partaking will it (it is an acquired skill that I have no doubt in your ability to master. :D )Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
you seem to have figured it out so it can't be too hard :flipoff2:
Hey, I resemble that remark!
(that's why you were talking about the governor the other day! I get it now. :laughing: )
So, Dana 60, I want to do coil springs. I am thinking of a "radius like" arm on each side. The arm would have a bend to allow for tire clearance. The arm would be mounted to the frame side by like a 1" heim and mounted to the axle by 2 bushings on each side (similar to a track bar). Then a track bar to hold it left to right. Very similar to 78/79 Ford Broncos, but with heims. I was going to make the arms out of 1-3/4 - .250 wall. I made this KAD drawing to illustrate the idea. Thoughts? Why won't it work or what would work better?
everything ive seen aftermarket has the upper arm roughly half way down the lower, not full length like you have posted. i dont know the theory behind that though.
are you using a later model 60? would it be easier to try to make a 3link + panhard front instead of trying to make 2 bushing fit on the driver side?
i second the 3 link with a panhard/trackbar
super simple to build and seems to work very well
Appears you are recreating my suspension.
What you are creating is basically a swingarm. As you know, swingarms don't flex. You must use some soft bushings to allow for it. I would stay away from poly for these.
On mine I had to go with the top link roughly half way down the lower for clearance with the frame.
Good idea on the bend in them, I think you will need it since your frame is wider than mine. Mine rub just a bit, but it's at about the same point the u-joints would start to bind.
Leaf springs are for suckers.
With the bind that setup will see and the weight it's going to have to hold up, the bushings are going to catch pure D Hell like kolpecker said. I think the 3link will serve you better.
Do this, but only use one attachment point on the axle on one side, making it behave like a "wristed" radius arm. I did this on the Scout and really liked it.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Bending the arms as you have illustrated is a good idea, I had significant tire rubbing.
Klogger replacement!!
http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1738773285.html