Sounds like the perfect candidate for an LS1 powered rover!Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrvr
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Sounds like the perfect candidate for an LS1 powered rover!Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrvr
That's good idea!
Well the new rover was getting warm with the AC on and overheated big time last weekend. It shot the plug out of the radiator and lost all of the antifreeze on I30. A new fan clutch and waterpump fixed it and the temperature gauge was solid on a drive from Dallas to CS.
Now the problem is the stereo. The speakers sound like ass, worse than my 95 that only has 2 factory door speakers and a hard wired Ipod.
I've never really gotten balls deep in a car audio project, but since this truck has seats that aren't torn and weatherstripping that still seals I can see spending alot of time in it on road trips so I'm going to at least investigate what it will take to make it sound decent.
First, I want to retain the stock headunit. All of the audio controls on the dash work and I want to keep it that way, and weatherband is nice. The stock headunit has 4 line outs and 1 subwoofer out, it uses an external amp (15w I think) with goofy common ground speakers. All new speaker wiring will be ran. I've never dealt with crossovers, to hook up the A pillar tweeters will I need to mess with them and get a 4 channel amp, hooking them up to the front outs? Is there a such thing as a 6 channel amp that has component outs?
Stock speaker setup is 2 door speakers, 2 A pillar tweeters that I think have built in cross overs and might be tied into the door speaker wiring. 2 rear pillar speakers, and 2 tiny subwoofers (6"?) in the rear door with an amp behind them.
The door and rear pillar speakers obviously need to be replaced, and that means replacing the amp too. I can't stand the look of aftermarket speaker grills, so I'm thinking I'll need some kind of low profile speakers? What is cheap and decent out there that should fit? I've had infinity kappas in the past and they had a tweeter that wouldn't clear the stock grills on other vehicles.
For the bass I plan on unplugging the rear door subs and replacing one of the rear cubbys (where the jump seats go on a 7 seater) with a MDF box and a 10" of some sort. Is there a big enough difference in sound on a 2 ohm and 4 ohm woofer to justify the price difference?
The Crossfire speakers in my burb allowed you to either mount the tweeters on top of the speaker itself or remotely depending on what you wanted to do. They would easily fit behind a factory cover with the tweeters mounted remotely.
generally...noQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
i have some 5.25" 3-way Pioneers and Alpines in the doors of the Tacoma that i'm not using either...could be got cheap (read: :beer:)
i have an amp that you may be interested in, its a 5 channel, 50x4 + 200x1, its an eclipse model PA 5532
Flem, I don't feel like typing all this out, but you can def get a kick ass system with what you are talking about doing. Sound deadening is one thing that you didnt mention that can help a lot. I don't know how quiet this one is compared to the current one, but even if its better, I would still install some. Spending 200 more on equipment won't improve the sound as much as 200 in sound deadening will. Also, on subs, the resistance of the sub should be determined by the amp, not vice versa. Typically speaking, dropping to 2 ohms on the sub wont noticably change the SQ, but make sure you have an amp that can handle it. The change is SQ is typically (THD, etc) more on the amp side than the sub. Gimme a call, I'd be more than happy to help in any way I can.
How much for the 5 channel? I don't think I want it, but I am sure flem can use it. .
Flem it would be best if you could get seperate crossovers for the front speakers that split the sound rather than running them in parrallel on the amp and crossing them seperately. That would cut your ohm load down to load, and the notice in sound is more likely to be noticed as well.
Just call me.
$200Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
I like how people with 8 year old rovers keep more parts cars than people with 23 yr old yotas :flipoff2:
I like how people with 23 year old yotas suck at math ;)
I think I want a dedicated sub ampQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
I'm hoping the hombres at traders village have one of these in stock
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...75P4504&tp=115
okay so the parts truck is 12 years old. but the rig it's meant to support is an 00 :flipoff2:
Here is how you fix a 12 year old dash
mines 35 yrs old and it has no problems
Not really sure what I'm looking at...Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
someone must have already fixed it
I bet your ammeter doesn't work
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Shoulda used the brick instead.
Install random clamping devices from HF? Yep, looks much better nowQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I like how this has turned into a game of "caption this photo"
who uses an ammeter?
:laughing: I'm afraid you have too much time at your disposal.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I go out cruising, but I've no place to go and all night to get there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrvr
Is it any wonder I'm not a criminal?
Seriously wtf are all those clamps accomplishing in the picture?
holding the dash while glue dries. I think the glue machine at the rover plant must have jammed a lot because its pretty common for discovery dashes to curl up after a few years of sitting in the sun.
All the heavy **** on the dash is holding the other half down. I wouldn't have fixed it, but I had to replace the AC recirculation switch and since the dash was already apart I went at it.
I didn't take a before pic, but heres a pic of one that isn't as bad as mine was
http://www.simmonites.com/images/cur...oard%20300.jpg
What kind of glue secures a dash?
I don't know, I used gorilla glue. Its not the actual dash, its the padding and plastic coating on it. It separates from the dash "frame"
I hear that stuff works on anything, I just didn't know if there was some special glue that was used on dash plastic.
I thought it was some kind of gimmick glue for women until now. Seems legit, definately some sort of cross linking going on as it cures. The bottle says it needs water to activate and its a ***** to scrape off the flash after it dries.
Its pretty badass for sealing cardboard boxes.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Works decent on wood, not so much on any metal I've tried. If the surface isn't rough/porous, it's worthless. And it expands a lot.
I see a new direction for one of the three. Roast the tyres!!!
One of them needs new cats, so I'm thinking about putting those ****ty hedman headers on the 95 and putting its y pipe on another one. If mr. inspector gives me crap swap out the y pipes for an afternoon to get it to pass.
needs trailing arms and steering. Went to go get a whole bunch of stuff from Awesome! Auto, but they prick behind the counter wouldn't sell anything to me because I spilled gear oil on the dirt and said I cost him $10,000 in EPA fees :rolleyes: Pick N Pull had a Range Rover that I snagged the tie rod and driveshaft, but before I could pull anything else a forklift showed up and wanted to take it away. Aluminum must be at a high point.
junk that most Rover people eat up:
http://www.rovertym.com/ourprod/imag...kinstalled.jpg
italian junk, surprisingly the cheapest:
http://www.equipe4x4.com/immagini/puntinclmont.jpg
the company that makes the yota 3rd member conversion:
http://www.rovertracks.com/images/pr...minstalled.jpg
Or just chop off the ends and weld them to some thick tubing.
For steering I'm probably going to get this steering setup. HD drag link, Defender style stabilizer bracket, and OME stabilizer. With all of that stuff included the price difference of building one isn't worth it.
http://www.rovertracks.com/images/pr...relocation.jpg
I bought the conversion for the front (probably 10 yrs ago). I got a chrome moly link from $afari Gard. I bent that one. I would do the DOM w/ insert deal if you wanted to change the links. I think rovers are 11/16 fine thread and inserts are no where to be found. I went to bigger TR ends and used some for a 3/4 ton chevys. I have the ream if you want to borrow it. The stabilzer mounts I have seen (and the one I bought) are a joke. the one end on the frame is some reinforced plate bolted on. The other is a piece of angle w/ a hole drilled for the stabilzer and four holes for some u bolts that clamb it to the drag link. I would make it b/c I have that in scrap laying around and the chrome moly rod sucks and bends easily.
well I'll probably just get the drag link only from rovertracks and ignore the rest of the crap.
What rear links are you using?
That happened to me once, and I know I have relayed the story on here before but I can't find it. They are dumb for putting **** in the yard with gear oil still in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I kind of want to go back with only a crescent wrench so I can load up a cart with drain plugs and ask how much, then walk out and call the gubment on them.
make sure to take a ratchet also, for those pesky inset plugs:gigem:
ordered a bunch of equipe junk, should be bullet proof now
Grayson D90 calipers have a bigger piston than RRC calipers and use the same vented rotor. Right now 1 needs rotors and another needs calipers so I'm frankenstiening a working vehicle together and ordered all the shat for the d90 conversion. Rovers north had the best price on everything but the rotor. Napa or XJs Unlimited is the cheapest for those.
From the rover boards it sounds like this makes the vehicle stop like it should have from the factory. I don't know why they cheaped out on a heavier vehicle. I looked into late model 110/130 brakes, but those are even more ****ed up. They use a front disco rotor for the rear, and a solid front rotor thats thicker than a 90. And they are completely unavailable on this continent.