Dana 44's

rear is not as heavy as the front of your truck...nor is the rear as heavy as the rear of a wagoneer

whoa whoa whoa....setting deadlines already? and soon? wtf? eric was right...i think we need to re-read the TAMOR by-laws and introduce these newbies to the part that says "no project shall be finished in a timely manner". :flipoff2:

good job man. keep up the pace.

you can come help finish the yota since you seem to love working so fast :flipoff2:

i gotta have this thing done soon or i wont have anything to drive to CS, its either this or a 73 CJ5 with no top, i like the one with AC better.

ok tonights progress, have it drivin tomorrow hopefully.

looks muuuuuch better :gigem:

still too tall
ditch the body lift
and keep a prybar handy (or make some anti-inversion shackles)
:D

thanks, i put them the same distance as a waggys and the springs havent settled much yet at all and that is also without winch on there, so i think they will eventually settle back a little, hooked up steering tonight and tomorrow bleed brakes and see how she drives.

ok got her drivin but has a little bit of bump steer, the shocks that i have on there are pretty wore out and not a good length could this be the problem or should i run a steering stabilizer, steering stabilizers fix bump steer right? its a highsteer set up.

Post a picture of how it is set up. You may just have an alignment problem. A steering stabilizer will just hide an existing problem, not fix it. New shocks might help, but I doubt they would do much more than just smooth out some of hte harsher bumps.

after we finished nix's full width swap the 1st test drive was without any shocks on front. it was crazy steering. after we put shocks on it made a huge difference. got rid of a lot of wobble in the ride and steering.

Some of the bump steer could be from castor, or worn out ball-joints on knuckles, steering slop in the links, joints, or box.

i think the shocks are key the ones i was using were maxed out at ride height not allowing the suspension to flex down, i think with proper length shocks it will show great improvement, the steering gear is new, new ball joints, and castor set to 4 degrees like stock waggy, alignment could be off right now the tires are toed in an inch. will post pics when not so tired. thanks

Shocks that have a little movement will help then...

took the truck to a old spring shop in houston to level out the rear end, and they rearched the rear springs and added a few cut springs and put a centerpin through it all, the pictures explain it. Drove it and it seems to drive alright havent had it faster than 30 gets a little squirly with no shocks. I have a couple of questions about shocks though, first off i have the shocks mounted on top of the c casting on the axle which was real temporary and dont like this setuyp at all, going to move them down to tube. Also i know this is driving without shocks but it seems everytime you hit a bump the steering wheel moves erratically from side to side, i am hoping shocks will fix this, i posted pics of the steering setup, the way the shocks will be mounted will have to be on front of the axle, is this alright or will they work better towards the rear of the axle? The tie rod comes real close into contact with the springs when flexed so i think will use taller spacer. WIll post pics any comments or advice greatly appreciated! Also i have always been under the understanding that when mounting shocks the rods are always at top and the bodys on the bottom does this matter? Thanks

can you swap the mounting locations of the tie rod and drag link? it'd make life easier on your steering box w/ the force farther away from the pivot point.

also, i run the shocks on the rear of my truck upside down to keep the cylinder up higher and havent had any problems.

when we drove nix's ranger after the full width swap w/o shocks on the front it was squirly and scary. added shocks and it was perfect. you should do this and get back to us.

btw. the way we put shocks on that thing was extremely cheap and easy. found a couple bolts that were the right size to go thru the shock eyes, cut the heads off and welded the remaiing shank to the top of the spring plate, w/ the threads sticking off the side. yeah, it was kinda :rainbow:, but we'd been working 36+ hrs straight and it worked like a charm.