STACEY BARS!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
...and if you try to pistol whip me I will roman candle whip your ass in the parking lot of the A&A! :gigem:
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STACEY BARS!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
...and if you try to pistol whip me I will roman candle whip your ass in the parking lot of the A&A! :gigem:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Sounds like good ol' plain southern speak to me. Of course you would have known this had you been from a 'real' southern state and not one just pretending to be....
:flipoff2:
Oh, and STACEy BARs!!!
David, you bring the piston and the man in the chicken suit, I'll bring the baby oil and the camera. What goes on in Clayton stays in Clayton.
:rainbow:???
Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
Beat ya too it:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Texas is overrated.
"Long live the Confederacah"
http://www.geocities.com/augustium/P...CartmanLee.gif
You guys are totally :rainbow:...:flipoff2:
Anyway...
The crossmember that I removed was a tube that went through the two brackets on the frame. So I removed what was left of the tube where it was welded, cleaned up the holes, and slipped the crossmember back in to the brackets. I'll weld this in at the same time I tack the bumper in place. I also flipped it around, since with the new wheelbase the upper shock mounts are in the right place to mount the lower shock mounts on the front of the axle. I probably won't use the stock upper mounts though, I'll put some new mounts in the center of the crossmember.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2238.jpg
Let the obligatory mock-ups begin...:D
This is the spring at 105" center pin to pin. I used a high tech spring mock-up system to hang the spring in its approximate position.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2236.jpg
Here's where the fuel cell will be. I'll have to wait till I get a drivetrain in to see how high it will need to be for driveshaft clearance. I want to keep it as low as possible for COG and so that I can run a regular filler neck on the cell.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2239.jpg
Here's a little bed mock-up. I threw the LUV bedside up to see if I could get an idea what it would look like...but it's about 41" too long.:P From the back of the cab to the back of the bumper is about 36.5".
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2240.jpg
I through the sides of the FJ body I cut out just for fun. This gives a little better idea of how it may look.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2243.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2244.jpg
looks good
this is gonna look cool
Got LUV? :)
Tacked the two ends of the bed together. My thought was to try without the wheel well first, then if I still want it I can add it in there.
I'm not sure about if the wheel well will look better or not. If I put the wheel well in I'll have to put in a fill panel behind it anyway to cover the frame. I chopped a wheel well onto one of the pics...thoughts?
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2249.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN2247.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../DSCN2247b.jpg
you should dove it from the edge of the bulkhead to the width you have it at the rear now. sorta like jimmys scout.
I like it with out the wheel well, if it's going to be that far inboard anyways, do you really need it.
It's a little late for the dovetail now. I think dovetails look good, but I was looking at doing something a little different anyway.
I didn't really measure, so the tire may actually sit in a little closer to the body. Still, the wheel well would be more for looks than function because it would only be about 1-2" deep.
i really have no idea what you are doing to this poor thing.:confused2
Preparing it for the scrap yard, but making it look like I'm doing something to it so I don't look like a quitter.;)