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Not to much to report but the teardown and buildup has begun. Stripped off all the old rear suspension, and stitch welded the tubes to the housing. I would have rather used stick nickle rod but mig will do. Also got the new springs, shackles, and hangers on.
Well I got more done today than I can recant. Welded perches on rear, set pinion angle, used stock crappy spring plates for now. As soon as we get the torch back I have some 1/2" plate that i'll cut for new spring plates. Welded on shock mounts, I'm pretty sure that the shocks i have on now will not work, they don't limit drop but the only have about 3" of uptravel before bottoming out.
New cv yoke went on, and i measured for the new d-shaft. The tom woods shaft that flem gave me is about 4 1/2" to short. So I cut it up to retube it with DOM, but the wall thickness of the stock DOM is about .09 but the tom woods wall thickness is .135 so theres some wiggle. Instead of using the weak .09 DOM I'm just going to use 1 3/4" sch 40 pipe. Its only 12" long so it wont weigh alot.
Also need a new brake line that I'll get made tomorrow. Other than that i'll get pics tomorrow and explain further.
I got the front end torn apart today. As well as started working on the 30. I'll finish the 30 and put all the new parts on it tomorrow.
Pics of the build. I'm pretty sure that I'll have enough clearance between the spring and tie-rod when under compression.
I finally got the majority of the little sh*t done. It so happens I unknowingly moved the front axle forward a little shy of 2". Cool. I'll take it. But now I have to retube the front d-shaft.
I also thought I had everything for the build already bought but I was short one front spring hanger (which is the reason for the washers), and short one stub shaft (which should be in by friday).
Had to shorten the tie rod by an inch. New brake lines, all outers, brakes.
"new" re-tubed tom woods cv driveshaft 1310s, 7" of travel. 1.5" compression, 5.5 downtravel.
It looks good, My Jeep looked amazing for a while but after I destroyed the fender I gave up. Sure I wish it wasn't beat up but I also discovered that lifted jeeps don't like to drive 300+ miles per week at 75mph.
Looks good!
tie rod
the high steer is new using an old tie rod?
The tie rod was way over built by coop. But because of the ballistic fab high steer arms being closer in then the stock 44 arms it had to be cut down. The drag link had barely enough play that I could suck the tre's in enough to make it fit.
i dont think there is such a thing as an overbuilt low mounted tie rod.
well than, its more then enough for high steer now.
I flexed it out a bit. I also bought new shocks for the rear, rancho 5008's. I've got 9" of travel in the rear and 13" in front.
i'm going to build my ant-wrap bar this week and have it all figured out but i'm torn on what two ideas to go with.
the first is 2 bushings at the axle with a 3/4" tractor heim at the lower link of the 4" shackle and another poly bushing at the top end. Constructed from 1.25" schedule 80. Pretty straight forward.
the second is a little more creative. It still uses bushings at the axle end but instead of using a heim for the rotational force and a shackle for the wheel base change when under flex it uses a sleeved style bar. The female part of the bar would be 1.25" sched. 80 and the male end would be 1.25" solid bar.
What are peoples opinions about these two set ups, they seem equally priced and to produce with identical results on axle wrapping.
I can almost garauntee you that the sleeve idea will bend at the intersection of the inner nad outter tubes. You need to get the lower tube as close as possible to the pivot to avoid bending. Use a heim or johnny joint at the top of the shackle on the frame side and bushings every where else.
New stuff. Moved the front shackles 1" forward, so I had to make new bumper mounting points. New bumpstops in rear the front are on there way. New 1/2" spring plates and u-bolts. Hardware for the anti-wrap bar.
anti-wrap
ruff stuff
the antiwrap stuff yes the spring plates no. Does any one have any thoughts about the ant-wrap bars?
yah i broke a yoke and u-joint on the rear axle the last 47 trip.
Only reason I can think of for using the slip-joint style is if space is tight and it's the only thing that'll fit. I made mine shackle style and it rocks. Set it up so that you have to lift the truck an inch or two to get the shackle bolt in, that kind of preloads it and keeps it from clanging. Don't we have a thread about this somewhere?
Feller did the slip style on the 4-runner, he's got some threads or posts about it somewhere. Also 4runnerrick on pirate did it on his samurai if you want to search through 1000 pages of his buildup
Oh I missed your drawing of the shackle style. The heim should be on the ladder bar side, not the crossmember side. It will destroy the bushing/shackle otherwise. A 1" OD tubing insert (with 5/8" threads) should fit that 1.25 sch 80 with just a little notch. That's how I made mine
antiwrap bar. 1.5 sch 80 with johnny joint-1.25" shank, 9/16" bolt.
Came out nice. Have you tested it on the rti ramp yet?
did that crossbrace on the axle bracket come with the kit or did you make it?
I think I need new motor mounts, I have no idea how long the drivers side has been like this. I ordered M.O.R.E's bullet proof motor mounts today.
Rubicon Express 1.5" SOA rear leaf packs. And new transmission torque arm bracket, the original developed a 45 degree bend in it. The stock arm was 5/32" (0.15625") thick the new replacement is 15/64" (0.234375")thick. 50% thicker, hopefully this one won't bend.
needs bigger tires. ill haul those off for you.
I also fixed the brake problem. "New" (to me) proportioning valve and some new flared fittings made it good as new, no leaks.
New engine mounts, damn those old mounts were scary, and the finished new transmission mount/torque arm.