www.jeepfisting.com...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
I've got nothing.
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www.jeepfisting.com...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
I've got nothing.
you so bad! :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
bookmarked!Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
oh ****!
This is good stuff!!
http://www.jeepingsingles.net/links.asp?catid=5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
Theres really only one major site. www.ifsja.org
:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
http://4x4gayoffroad.myfastforum.org...ep24_small.jpg
has the title changed from hummer to "jeep douche"?
No just regular douche now. :gigem:
Am I doing this right?
Rotate motor until pushrods/lifters for that cylinder are both down, install rocker with nut until you can barely spin it (no up/down movement), turn it an additional 1/2 turn, tighten set screw.
???
I tightened them an additional full turn a week ago and it made noise. Turns out the pushrod was sticking in the rocker.
is the NV4500 the most logical trans for a 5spd? besides a ZF5, what else is there?
probably but you have to use syncromesh fluid in them or it will destroy the bearings/ syncros
Where is the best place/book/exc to learn about Suspension Geometry/ set up?
Ex: How to properly set up 4 links, traiangulated arms, exc.?
pirate, search and read and when you think you understand read some more
its actually pretty simple on a jeep like yours.
for the front copy the Poly 3 link w/ track bar.
for the rear you can do alot of different things but search and download the 4 link calculator, and take measurements of where you can put things on the frame, where you can put links on the axles
make a few small adjustments and you have a 4 link. It is not quite that easy so just read, but if you need any help ask me after i get back from Colorado and I will tell you how mine works/ what I would change.
Oh FYI 4 links are expensive, at least $1000+ an axle in joints, tube, brackets ect.
Situation:
95 Ex-Cab Yota + 454.
Talk amongst yourselves....
http://blog.projects-abroad.net/imag...da_Richman.jpg
I think you gotta stretch it a bit if you want to keep the radiator in front. Don't think it's that hard to do (extend fenders and hood) but probably not worth it. With the x-cab you could probably also just move the seats back and tub out the firewall. Otherwise you know the drill: 60/14 or rockwells, atlas or stak, 44" cut boggers :D
As long as there is no faggoty propane involved, it can be done. :flipoff2:
Relocate the Radiator and batteries to the bed, but that is a Huge frickin block, going where the 3.Slow was. I have a buddy with a 350 in a single cab 80's model truck and the IFS trucks engine compartment is a bit bigger. I don't see why not...
"It's like butta..."
After running my truck on the 'gas of the gods', I will never again have a rig w/ out it. :flipoff3:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
This will be on our truck that ended up 'nearly' in the creek. There will be no bed on it (some type of tube bed will be made w/ the cage) and will probably have to chop the top off to get rid of the damage. With no bed, it should be pretty easy to move the radiator and batteries to the back. I was thinking a 203/205 doubler w/ the 'green 60/14's. I may try the pitbulls out, or a combo of TSLs and Boggers. I would like to make this a 'gofast' truggy that could run in something like KOH or the like.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
these can't possibly weigh 300lbs, can they?
http://denver.craigslist.org/zip/1178523140.html
How much does a 2'x2.5'x10" block of concrete weigh?
I am pretty sure I need these, I'm just not sure what for :D
google says anywhere from 80-160lbs per cu ft depending upon aggregate type so they could well be that or much more.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
edit: if you believe wiki/yahoo answers, but they pretty much have same info.
sweet thanks. So do I need them? And do I need them worse than I need a sore back?
Maybe a cheap pad to park a truck or boat on, or retaining wall/flower bed. I would say no though if you don't already have a plan for them.
We always figured 4k lbs per cubic yard so 150/ ft3 is pretty close.
move engine as far back as possible, long travel front suspension, put radiator, and other coolers in the bed. air bumps and coil overs are a must all aroundQuote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
maybe some a 100 shot for when things get wild
oh and a bad ass rollcage and a helmet for yourself
How long is a cj7?
Need to see if i can fit a Blazer, cj7, and a motorcycle on a 30' trailer.
no problem, I can fit my truck and said blazer on my 32'er. you should have plenty of room. Do the ramps fold up or do you store them on the deck of that one?
it'll fit. What Blazer is going on that thing, guess I can look at the other thread
my blazer is going
hey focker, i still want that buick trans
you will have to have the title, if you dont have the title then you have to cut the car up till you cant recognize it,
i took an entire cab and front clip to Bryan Iron. didnt say one thing to me?
guy behind me had an entire truck, and i know that Canadian didnt have a title for it.
I think they require the cab to be cut into like 8 pieces? Get a long "the torch" blade (or the brand that has the red cross on it) for your sawzall and get after it. Shouldn't take long.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
source for metal boxes? Like truck tool boxes? Realized that ammo cans look ghetto, but I need a box 42" wide (max) x 10" deep x 14" tall. Have no idea where to even start looking...
Need to be hippie priced? Rhetorical question? I got a good deal on my RKI chest on ebay.
Lid need to open up correct?
What is the other good toolbox manf....?
Might also check forums for guys who have them in racecar trailers, or jet ski trailers. etc.
look at old electrical switch panel boxes, i have one at my house roughly that size
Weatherguard, thats the other good brand. Check for that, rki, and rawson koenig on ebay and cl.
cool thanks. Not super hippie priced, tomorrow you'll see why
tractor supply or even HD or lowes