But race trucks have electric fans
Printable View
But race trucks have electric fans
Race trucks also drive less than 5,000 miles a year.
So you are saying they are not reliable? I'm replacing broken ****...
quick internet research shows that stock fan pulls almost 25000 cfm at lock up. does your fan clutch ever lock? if so the electric fan will probably be insufficient.
can you retro fit a thermal clutch?
Really? Do you have any idea what a 25000 CFM fan would look like or how much air that is?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
From what I've found is a stock fan moves about ~6000 CFM at full lock up and the efficiency is debatable. The flex-a-lite fans are rated up too 5,500 cfm.
Reason for going to electric fans:
-Controllability, I'll be able to turn it off for water crossings or leave it on to aid in cool down.
-Efficiency, electric fans are more efficient thus the reason they are on all the newer vehicles and I believe the flex-a-lite shroud will be an improvement over stock
-Space, I can free up some under hood space.
-Poor design running a guide rod for wires where there is so little clearance between the belt and fan.
My concerns:
-Not moving enough air
-Reliability
I agree it is alot but have you ever heard your fan at full lock up at 3000 rpm? I know a Duramax stock fan is alot more than 6000 CFM at full lockup at 3000 RPM.
Electric fans are used on modern vehicles because they improve AC performance at low speed.
Anyways try it and let us know how it works because I find threads on people asking and no real world experience.
I am pretty sure Isuzu figured out how to power the fans on the Duramax with some sort of jet engine! I have yet to be able to find it under the hood, but I have definitely heard it when its at full throttle. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2754...b-adapter.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
That's pretty neat BDR
As far as relocating the batteries (to the tool box for now) would it be better to wire the batteries in parallel and run 2 stands of 2/0 cable (positive and negative) to their original spots under the hood or run 4 2/0 cables under the hood? Or is 4 strands of 2/0 cable even going to be enough?
eventually there will be a winch up front
That much cable is not cheap. Why do you want to do this again? There is not a simpler solution to prevent water from getting in? Seems a little drastic.
$100-150 for cable. Other than a snorkel out the side of a truck I don't see a better way. If I move the batteries I can move the airbox next to the firewall and hopefully draw air from the fender instead of from the bumper.
Well add another $150 for battery boxes. I don't mind doing this stuff as long as I can do it right.
Why not just switch the batteries and air box and put the batteries right on the core support like the super duty does and put the filter further towards the firewall now that the battery isn't in the way
Well when you put it like that, I don't know.
2/0 from the batteries in the toolbox tied straight to the starter and wherever the original ground strap ties to the frame. Should be more than adequate. Moving the weight back that far will be a bonus for the offroad gofast I would think also.
4/0
Why are you still here?
Because I enjoy pissing you off :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
And I know a thing or two about electrical systems.
http://74.50.20.110/wiringdiagram.jpg
anyone can google, hotpocket. 2/0 is overkill, but that's what I would use.
That chart doesn't say 4/0 anywhere on it...
Tell me about how you are going to run a microwave off of an inverter againQuote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
I couldn't imagine trying to snake 4/0 through a vehicle. I like sparlings idea.
same way 2nd gens are...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Ive done it on old Southwestern Bell trucks when we were installing big inverters. It's a beeotch for sure. We installed two extra alternators on them, it was a pretty peemp setup.
Look up resistance per foot, figure amps required, calculate voltage drop
Take voltage drop multiply by amps required and that is the heat put out by the cable. If its too high to air cool resistance goes up compounding the heat generation and catching fire
Or take off the shop vac filter that probably isnt doing anything for performance or filtration and problem solved
Oh ya, because going back to a factory filter that doesn't flow or filter as much and draws air from the same place is a good idea.:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
it must be better, it says so on the box
If you had half a brain cell you could figure out which is better
Actually after swimming the truck there was not a trace of mud/dirt past the filter, I'm impressed. The filter is trash now though.
Has anybody seen or have examples of decent homemade air box's? I have no idea what's the best way to pipe between the turbo and filter.
Exhaust tubing and a 6637 filter from napa work great on my truck. If you wanted to get fancy i guess you could fab a box with some thin aluminum and some pop rivets.
But you're not making any bends with the exhaust tubing, correct? As for the box itself it will probably be some thin aluminum, but it's the turbo to filter routing I'm unsure of? If only the cummins had the battery and filter setup of the 7.3 it would truly be the perfect engine...
No bends but any exhaust shop should be able to make whatever bends you need. It's 4" tubing.
Or if you want to get extra fancy, figure out what you need and order mandrel bent stainless from summit.
silicone tubing if you want to be extra fancy
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
No exhaust shop will be able to bend 4" tube and even if they could they'd dent the **** out of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
My truck has some really big 2" exhaust then.
Why not? Almost every diesel runs 3.5" factory exhaust and a ton of people run 4 and 5 inch full exhausts. I know for a fact one of the shops in Paris does it all the timeQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Any idea on quality and longevity? Something like this would be sweetQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
quality and longevity should be as good as any of the silicone pieces on your inter cooler piping. If you search around there are several different sites selling the silicone intake parts but since you are not planning on using them under any pressure you don't have to get anal about layers and all of that.