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C6 or E4OD?
With a C6 I get a longer rear driveshaft which means angles will be better and more possible travel.
With an E4OD I get OD and a lower first gear, but lose some rear drive shaft length and rear travel numbers. The wiring is also all there, although down the road this will be made more complicated by a mass air conversion.
Also working on cruiser status so OD would be nice in general.
C6. No electric bull****, cheaper.
Why would you go auto? If you do I'll take the zf.
If your planning on driving 70 mph, go with a overdrive.
All the electric bull**** is already there and ready to go. Also, a C6 on summit is 1300, and that's not far off from what I have found a reman e4od for.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
A stick designed for towing or bigger light duty trucks doesn't do so well speed shifting. It does great with crawling and slow speed stuff but you really have to work it to go anywhere, you're never in the right gear for cruising and brodying at the same time. I ripped the shifter handle off at DSO, obviously whoever installed it didn't use enough JB weld. It's also a little on the worn side.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
This thing could possibly be a DD in the very near future, so creature comforts are high on the to do list.
I disagree, leave the zf in, learn to drive stick. I had a Mazda m5od and it did not bother me, the zf is better than that.
What **** said
Leave the ZF in, Fix the A/C, that would be my priority if you are going to DD the thing. Oh and buy a half inch longer driveshaft or figure out why that thing is spitting them.
Zf
Auto!
You auto shut the **** upQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I'm with Sharpe.
Cvt
If you go auto, go e4od. or AOD! Tommy said C6, so you can use the old "Ask tum tum what he would do and then do the opposite" rule of thumb.
worked well for you, huh?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
Finish Solid axle swap....nope
have a running trail rig for at least 1 run a year....nope
drive a legendary...nope
Be Seth, and be legendary without a rig? CHECK!Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Seth has a couple Scouts now. I'm sure Seth will make a run one of these days. Isn't your bronco sans engine these days?
What does "drive a legendary" mean?
Bro, If you don't know you're not flat bill diesel smoke coolQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
I'm not sure what you are asking what worked well for me? Or how your list of my 'shortcomings' relates to trans choice for Sparling? Just need something to respond with?Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Fred, you wanna come hang for a weekend here in BCS and wrench on the scout? We can wait til its a little cooler.
The Seth is not to be harmed!Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
I was asking how your rule of thumb was working out for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
My apologies, after re-reading it all became very clear. Well, on the first two counts at least. I'm not sure what "drive a legendary" refers to. If we are discussing your bronco, perhaps infamous would be a better choice of word. I digress, we aren't here to discuss semantics.
In the interest of full disclosure, I'd like to clarify something. You are correct; I haven't made one trip a year with a rig. Not even close. Matter of fact, I haven't even made one trip a year without a rig. In fact, I have only been on one trip with a rig. One single trip. 242/ San Jac River. Fall of 2000. Scott and Krebs were there, Austin too. Burbach was still alive in those days and he came along too. I ran tailgunner because I had one of the few CB radios. You see, in those days, I was a little more naïve to what an excellent group of folks TAMOR is, and certainly missed out on some epic experiences.
All this to say one thing. Despite my poor attendance record, through some stroke of good luck, perhaps by being a friend to many, along with a little bit of wit and charm, I have always been welcomed to the group. I have never needed to build an over the top rig only to grenade it in spectacular fashion in order to be embraced by this group. For this I am very thankful. We should all be so lucky, including you Mr. Mayfield.
In the words of long time Popular Mechanics Editor in chief Joe Oldham - "till next time"
Sparling, my sincerest apologies derailing your thread, I'm obviously a bit long winded today. Perhaps changing the title to "the dook" would get things back on track. :)
I can't change thread titles anymore.
Anybody have any luck with parts store steering gear boxes?
I had an O'reillys box on Pigpen. I karled up something when I drilled and tapped it for hydro-assist so I warrantied it :D After I reassembled it there was a tick in the steering cycle and then the box locked up at K2. Second box tapping went better and never had any issues after that. I'd probably try rebuilding your current box first due to the expense.
Call up PSC (http://www.pscmotorsports.com) and get a box from them. If they don't have one, see if they will rebuild your existing box. I had them rebuild the box on my Scout and have been beating the **** out of it for about 10 years now. I've given up on parts store rebuilt steering components. I have come to the decision that if I need to put a steering box or pump on anything, it is going to be a factory new unit from the original manufacturer, or a PSC component.
I know Scott has had some issues with his psc pump, and I know Flem isn't a big fan of them either, but I have had nothing but good luck with their stuff.
Well it's either a redhead box or parts store, just seeing if the redhead is really needed.
What is the redhead?
Its a company in Oregon known for the best gear boxes on the market. They machine out boxes and replace bushings with roller bearings, torn shafts on a lathe and check for straight shafts and custom fit the gears and balls. If I keep my truck that's what it's getting.
http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com
I c....
What's everyone's favorite degreaser or engine cleaner/oven cleaner? Going to reseal the oil pan, front crank seal and valve covers, it's been leaking pretty bad for a while and the engine looks like ass. I might pull the front clip and just pressure wash the crap out of it. Not sure if I have the energy for that.
I just use a **** ton of whatever the part store has.
Brake cleaner and degreaser are cheaper at wal mart. Why do you need to remove the front clip to power wash it?
I don't have to but I'm putting a different front clip on it anyways so I can just take it off for that and make sure I get everything.
Purple power works well
Anybody know where to get either a new steering column shaft or just the u joint that goes in it for the tilt function? I've found all the bearings I need for a column rebuild but I can't find anyone who sells that joint. I would rather not go aftermarket column because that would bring about a bunch of wiring issues.
I think LKQ has those in Houston...
Think my column would work? I think the steering was pretty tight when I messed with it.
No, the 92 and up columns are way different and more complicated.
This is what's in the shaft now, but I can't find any sources that sell online to the public. Some kind of split block u joint.
http://www.wakefield-vette.com/porta..._universal.jpg
Never mind I figured it out. Once you unbolt it there's just 2 blocks machined to fit 4 ball bearings. I cleaned all the old grease off, filed a little bit off of the blocks and bolted it back together with a new bolt and but and it's as good as new.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7..._103749269.jpg
Anybody have any ideas on this? When I turn the key to start, the actuator rod pushes out of the groove in the ignition switch to where it's not supposed to be. See blue arrow. It also does this with a brand new switch.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...930_184605.jpg