Swamp Donkey Progess

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Originally Posted by RCook527

the starter solenoid is basically a relay. why would you wire a relay to power a relay? put a meter on the positive small terminal on the solenoid and have somebody crank it. if you get no voltage you have a wiring problem somewhere in the column or dash

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It takes some power to run the solenoid. Sometimes the wire through the column and all drops too much voltage to power the solenoid. So you just use that wire to power a relay that powers the solenoid. It's common on samurais, I once installed one.

But that's not the problem here.

Here's my sure way of finding electrical problems, or at least easy one like this. Get your test light, its faster than a voltage meter. Find a wire related to the problem that should have power. If it doesn't have power work towards the battery, if it has power, go the other way. Your problem will be somewhere between where you have power and where you don't.

You got power to this switch yall are talking about? If not just skip it and go towards the battery. If you do have power to it, check if you get power to the other side of it when you press the switch.

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Originally Posted by eight

Your problem will be somewhere between where you have power and where you don't.

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good job captain obvious... :flipoff2:

on another note...i found said part...bronco graveyard calls it an Ignition Actuator. the one pictured says for 89-91, but the part looks the same in my truck...

just be cool and easy and use a relay and a push button switch for the start, it makes it like a race car

I am going to take some pictures right now of this rod to confirm what we are talking about because that picture doesn't look familiar. BTW, this all started when I was buried in the 47 pond trying to pull Junior out....which makes me think mud fawked something up.

ps, i am way to drunk to dicipher this electrical jiberjabber, but i will read this again tomorrow and try to fugre it out. Thanks for all the help guys.

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Originally Posted by JBrown89

ps, i am way to drunk to dicipher this electrical jiberjabber

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I PITY DA FOO'

i had that damn pewter thing go out in my truck, you could start it but had to pull the coil wire to kill it, it was a pita to replace, that little piece is pretty cheap, but if you have a tilt wheel you need some special tool for the springs in there

those are the biggest pain in the ass to replace i had to do one on the bronco couple of years ago

push button....push button...push button...

Sorry for not getting pics. I busted out the test light and had power before and after the switch, but it lost power in the loom somewhere between the switch and the firewall grommet on the passenger side. I temporarily ran a jumper wire and that has got it starting for now, until I have sometime to figure it out. Again though, thanks for the advice.

Any thing wrong with running fuel injection hose all the way from the tank to the motor? It would be alot easier than the crappy plastic line.

Nope, I have hose running all the way from the tank to the motor. I need to re-route it outside the frame to get it away from the exhaust though.

yep, braided hose from the tank to the fuel rail. best way to do it. fewer leak paths.

Steel line, go jank one out of a truck, straighten it out and volia!

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Originally Posted by Reckless

Steel line, go jank one out of a truck, straighten it out and volia!

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rubber fuel injection hose seem ALOT easier though

john, just run the high pressure FI rubber line. it isnt that expensive and is easy. if you want more protection agienst abrasion, then put some wire loom around it. otherwise call it good. thats what i did on my truck when the headers melted the plastic ones...

Could not go to Clayton, so went to a buddies ranch. Flopped it, broke a weld on my d-link, bent an es2027 tie rod, broke a 60 stub, somehoe go a bad exhaust leak, alot of body damage....
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...-trail-(3).jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...e/img_0495.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...llover-(3).jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...llover-(1).jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...irtime-(2).jpg

is that Long's? Looks like fun!

you need a stub... i have several

hey john have you had a chance to tear into it? did it mushroom the spindle like everyone says is so notorious with 60 carnage?

havent torn into it...what doyou been mushroom?

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Originally Posted by JBrown89

havent torn into it...what doyou been mushroom?

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When the short shaft breaks it messes up the spindle most of the time. It just expands the spindle a little.

Looks like you had a good time. I saw you pulling into C.S. as I was headed home on Sunday.

BTW- I saw Aaron's vette all trashed in his driveway what the hell happened?

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Originally Posted by CheapJeep

Looks like you had a good time. I saw you pulling into C.S. as I was headed home on Sunday.

BTW- I saw Aaron's vette all trashed in his driveway what the hell happened?

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he can't handle that kind of power. That poor poor c5. Its has been wrecked like that at least 3 times in the past 1-2 years.

It looked pretty nasty from the road, messed up the passenger side pretty good.

Found out some causes of my breakage. The exhaust leak is coming from the back of the head. I capped off the EGR hole with a bolt that apparently backed out (possibly due to increased vibrations from new solid motor mounts). THe d-link ends bent again and the d-link itselft broke because on passenger side compression, the d-link hits the bottom of the frame. More lift would help this :D I have not yet pulled the stub out.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...e/img_0496.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/4...e/img_0497.jpg

Today I replaced the damaged front shackles with F450 shackles. I also installed a new taillight that will more than likely suffer the same fate as the one before. I srop it off for the cage build later this week

Also fixed leaking rear axle seal.

For TCC:
cage
sterling rock ring
maybe hummer rims, but not likely

whos doing the cage?

Greg Grosz The same guy who has done my doors, sliders, skid, and tire carrier modifcations. I need some new seats too

here is the sterling rock ring i made, it wasnt to hard to do. i used 3/16 plate i think and some half inch solid bar, bent the bar on a vise with a torch and made a template of the cover edges and cut it out with the torch. it has taken a couple good slams and hasnt bent at all.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap/sff_021

Cool, can't wait to see how the cage turns out. You live a few houses down from a buddy of mine, I past by your house earlier today and saw you working on the bronco.

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Originally Posted by CheapJeep

Cool, can't wait to see how the cage turns out. You live a few houses down from a buddy of mine, I past by your house earlier today and saw you working on the bronco.

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yeah, I heard your roving gang of diesels pass by. :)

Does the ram usually attach to a drag link or a tie rod? If tie rod, would it be prudent to attach the ram to my stock 1ton Chevy tie rod? Any feelings or comments about the Redneck Ram setup from WTO?

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Originally Posted by JBrown89

Does the ram usually attach to a drag link or a tie rod? If tie rod, would it be prudent to attach the ram to my stock 1ton Chevy tie rod? Any feelings or comments about the Redneck Ram setup from WTO?

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Everyone I ever hear from about WTO, has problems with their ram. Hell, Frick is a prime example.

Most assist applications I see, have mounted to the tie rod and then either a mount off of the diff or the tube.

definately tie rod. you wont know if it'll bend the stock one till you try it. just be sure to mount it in the middle of the tie rod. ask jimmy about this, he knows more about column buckling than i do. just wait till i finish this advanced solid mechanics class jimmy, then ill get you!

skip the WTO stuff and build you own setup, at least on the ram. Much cheaper and easier. Look at surplus center and find a ram that fits your needs. If a hiem or two is needed, its pretty simple to add them yourself.

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Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman

Everyone I ever hear from about WTO, has problems with their ram. Hell, Frick is a prime example

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Mine works :gigem:

i loved the service that matt has, and he did an awesome job on the box rebuild as well, but when it comes to the ram it sucked, i broke it three times, once i fixed it myself instead of them fixing it i had no problems with it until i bent it. Basically if you are lazy have him build the box&tap, then go get a psc ram. Also i wouldnt run the ram with crappy stock steering, that is mostly the cause for two of the three breaks in the west texas off-road ram.

thanks for the info. Redneck Ram is $500, which is what I was kinda expecting to spend, and I have a spare box to send off. But I am not sure on my mounting situation.

Checked the fluid in my reliable AOD today. At Katemcy, I backed it off thr trailer and somehow a trans cooler line popped off. Easy fix and I put about a quart back in it. (thanks steven's dad and Sharpe) It was slow to engage gears all day. I ended up putting 2 more quarts in it todya to get it to the right level. Now I have a nice whine coming from what sounds like a front pump. Damn.

i mounted mine mext to the pumpkin on the diff housing.