more... and one of the new tranny crossmember bushings... i am going to have to build a tcase crossmember also cause that is just too heavy for that little adapter to handle
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more... and one of the new tranny crossmember bushings... i am going to have to build a tcase crossmember also cause that is just too heavy for that little adapter to handle
looks pretty pimp, you gonna build some sort of skid plate for it?
ya i am gonna build a skid that works as a crossmember also
i will take a pic next time im out there to show how low it hangs... not much... maby 2-3"... the 205 is at the same level as the 203
I have decided to run a pillow block front driveshaft with it mounted onto the tranny crossmember where it squares down... the angle looks pretty decent and it looks good in the back too
Learn me on driveshaft tech... i am either upgrading to 1350 or 1410 stuff mostlikely probably the 1350 stuff because of availablity and pricing... since of the front setup i am gonna have to run a 2 piece shaft with a pillow block and a cv. I can get away with not running a cv in the back but i think i might ought to. is there going to be any problem finding yokes for the axles or tcase? is there a 1350 pillow block setup available?... i am used to just splicing together what shafts i already have, but have decided that i should really get decent driveshafts
I talked to Jesse at High Angle Driveline and he said he could do these shafts just how i explained them... so i am gonna do some more research and find everything myself and build them myself... cause i would be looking upward of 1300$ for both shafts and flanges and yokes from him... and i am gonna have to pass on that
oh and i learned that 1350 is as big as you can go on a rear shaft to have it street legal
i really doubt there are many cops out there the can tell a difference, but on the front y dont u just put a 1330 at the yoke in the front and and 1410 for the rest that a way u have a weak point and u wont hurt nothing else if u get in a bind
I would put that ticket on the fridge right next to my picture I colored in the 8th grade with the 'C+' on it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
the pillow block is gonna be 1410 and the rest 1350
i agree with ryan, theres gotta be some sort of weak point our you'll bust up high dollar parts.
It'd be really dumb to put superior shafts and ctms in an axle then feed them with a 1330 joint.
i agree... there are no cheap parts in my drivetrain... and i dont want the driveshafts to be too weak
i concur with pollock 1330 is to small, that would make it really weak.
your ball joints are weak tate :flipoff2: just kiddin man. when you do the ujoints, whats gonna be your weakest point you think?
the ujoints will still be the weakest point even at 1410... the shafts in the 10.25 may be weaker but i doubt it
Chevy and maybe ford came with 2 piece rear driveshafts with 1350s being in 3/4 and one tons. I believe later model dodge diesels had 1410 from the factory. Look into it.
i have the one from the f350... i think i am just gonna ghetto something together with what i have and that be the first purchase after completion... i just cant come up with that much more mula
I know the '90 Dodge CTD has the 1410 driveshaftsQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
wrong there, not all f-250's came with 1350, i just took one out that was a 1330.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Well thats gay. All chevies came with 1350s. Chevy > ford
why dont u look into getting it all done with 1410's and one of the flanges that has shear bolts in it i saw them in petersons a while back, you can change how strong it is, i mean with all that money in the axles i wouldnt wanna risk funcking **** up, maybe im just under estimating the strength of ctms and superior shafts
I think you are. Even with that heavy pig sitting on top of it that drivetrain's not breaking
the shafts and ctms will not break... i promise that and if they do they are free replaced
i thought the shafts were only free replacement with stock u joints?
they told me that if i could break these shafts they would replace them... nooone has yet and they run them on many comp rigs
cool deal
I got in my Fab Fours dana60 diff cover... it is one bad dood
I also got in my 3-stick shifter for the doubler... looks like it is gonna take a little work to install
that cover looks good.
they make one for a 44 yet?
graciasQuote:
Originally Posted by Matt Conlee
Yes, the triple stick takes some figuring. It took me a 6 pack to get the shifters connected and lined up how I wanted them. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
the fun part is i have to do it with the case already bolted in and hardly any clearance... there is no way i want to take it down and have to deal with lifting it back up again
cut a very large hole in the floor, and put sticks on then weld said pieve back in, or leave it open for air conditioning, or a good beer can dispenser. :gigem:
Holes in the floor suck, stuff that shouldnt fall out does. Being able to see your tranny crossmember is nice though.
expanded metal
worst idea ever, i was joking about it, well at least the not putting it back in, expanded metal will jsut get you wet,muddy, nasty, and cold=no buenoQuote:
Originally Posted by Rcook527
unless you mud bog or submarine your crap. i dont see how anything would get up in there if you drove at a reasonable speed.
shouldnt have taken your heater out if you didnt want to be cold :flipoff2:
Expanded metal is the way I am going in the Beast. There was already a huge hole of rust, so we torched it out and gonna place some back in. Tryin to look out the bowties window at the tires is a *****. Gonna help fix that by scrapin the 11.50 38's and goin with som 20.5 44's or bigger if I can locate some portal axles. The hole let in a little mud at Alto, but gonna fix that with a heavy piece of trailer mat for a removeable floor board. Hell anything that will keep the big beast shiny side up and rubber side down will help. :beer: